1949 Plymouth Rear Drum Removal ?

[temecularevev]

I am attempting to remove the rear drums on my 49 Plymouth Suburban. But my wheels and drums are held on by studs, not lug nuts. If I use a puller, attaching to the studs, will I be pulling just the drum? What are those threaded nuts behind the drum attached to? I understand the typical drum which has the studs connected to the drum, and pulling on the studs will release the drum. But what about my situation?  But will attaching the puller to my studs still remove the drum? Thanks.

[TodFitch]

Your '49 is a bit newer than I am used to, but they look bog standard in your photo. Here is what mine look like with the puller attached:

 

 

My write up on replacing the rear main seal on a 1933 model also covers removing the rear drums, so it might be helpful.

[andyd]

Teme.......you have a normal to me, mopar brake drum & wheel attachment........first you need to get the BIGGEST bolt on puller you can find and 1st loosen the centre nut on the axle a couple of threads, say 2 only.......then using 3 normally of those wheel bolts attach the puller and screw its centre threaded bolt hard onto the axle nut...then depending on the style of puller once its hard onto the nut/axle end you give the head on the pullers centre bolt a good wack with  a large hammer, maybe two wacks, then screw the centre bolt a bit more, then another wack and continue wacking,screwing until the drum pops , then remove puller etc.........the drum is on a tapered axle with a 5/16"(?) keyway........inspect the key and replace if any wear present........I've attached a pic of the drum puller I bought 50 yrs ago to do my cars drums when stock......it has never met a drum it didn't like...lol........regards from Oztralia.....andyd

[temecularevev]

Thanks to both. I'm giving it a try. I gave it a shot of PB Blaster. So far a few whacks with my single jack...nothing. Other posts suggest heat? And others suggest whacking it, then leaving for 20-30 mins, come back and whack again. Repeat until it comes loose. Any comments? I got the puller from Amazon. Some reviews critical of how the puller arms bend with too many whacks. So I'm at bit hesitant to really go after it. 

 

This is my first classic Mopar. I presently have a 64 Ranchero.

[Sniper]

I beat the tar out of mine, whaled on it till I could no longer swing my 5lb hand sledge.

 

Left it it like that over night, next day I was taking the trash out and decided to give it some more whacks, it popped loose after two more whacks.

 

Mind you this was the pass side only that needed this abuse, driver's side popped free simply by loosening the big nut and pushing the car side to side.  Not more than two months earlier I had both sides off doing other things.  You can neer tell with these things and there are times I seriously think going to a more modern axle that no longer has this setup would be worth it for nothing else.

 

 

[D81938]

Teme:  I put a little heat right around the center of the Hub. I did that a couple times and then tightened my puller each time.  Then I left it cool and it popped right off. There is no bearing in there to damage. My car sat in a ground floor barn for 50 years. 

[temecularevev]

Success!!!! Thanks again

[TodFitch]

Great! And thanks for getting back to us with your success, it is nice to know when the forum was able to help.

[Sniper]

11 hours ago, temecularevev said:

Success!!!! Thanks again

 

Which method did you use?  And congratulations.

[D81938]

 AWESOME

This site has helped me SO Much. My 38 D.B. was the first Flat Head I ever owned. Everybody  got some kind of knowledge.  

[temecularevev]

I progressively whacked the puller. Gave it a 30 min rest and whacked again. A couple of tries and I came off. As seen in one of the photos, the previous owner had the brakes replaced. So maybe the drum was a bit easier to remove since it was off a few years ago.

Thanks again,

Craig

 

P.S. Now off to post a transmission question.

[Tom Skinner]

I use a Long Breaker Bar with a 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" Socket to turn the Dog Bone on the Puller.

Slowly stepping on in until POW the Drum Breaks loose.

Back in the 70's when I was a poorer younger Lad I simply loosened the Castle Nuts on the Rear 

Axle and drove in a circle until they popped loose.

I only suggest my Breaker Bar method because I believe beating the Hell out of the Dog Bone 

with a 5 or 6 Pound Hammer might end up breaking something - or maybe not - I just don't want to risk it.

[lepic56]

Should you use some type of anti-seize like from Permatex on the axle when you put it back together??  or nothing at all ??

[Sam Buchanan]

On 12/12/2024 at 6:43 PM, Tom Skinner said:

I use a Long Breaker Bar with a 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" Socket to turn the Dog Bone on the Puller.

Slowly stepping on in until POW the Drum Breaks loose.

Back in the 70's when I was a poorer younger Lad I simply loosened the Castle Nuts on the Rear 

Axle and drove in a circle until they popped loose.

I only suggest my Breaker Bar method because I believe beating the Hell out of the Dog Bone 

with a 5 or 6 Pound Hammer might end up breaking something - or maybe not - I just don't want to risk it.

 

Using the hammer is often more effective, similar to what an impact wrench would accomplish. But glad you were able to get the drum removed, they can be aggravating sometimes.

Edited Saturday at 04:52 PM by Sam Buchanan

[Sniper]

On 12/12/2024 at 6:43 PM, Tom Skinner said:

I only suggest my Breaker Bar method because I believe beating the Hell out of the Dog Bone 

with a 5 or 6 Pound Hammer might end up breaking something - or maybe not - I just don't want to risk it.

 

Yes, when I switched to my off hand to continue the whaling I about broke my shin with a near miss (not real coordinated as a lefty, lol).

[soth122003]

2 hours ago, lepic56 said:

Should you use some type of anti-seize like from Permatex on the axle when you put it back together??  or nothing at all ??

The shop manuals say to use nothing at all, due to the parts being machine fitted. With that being said, after 60, 70 and 80+ years of wear, I believe the machine fit is a little worn and moisture can seep in, causing a sticky drum.  I clean the shaft and drum surface with a green scrub pad then I use a little bit of grease smeared on the shaft surface then wipe it off with a clean rag. The residue (IMHO) will act as a filler and lube to keep out the moisture and crud that loves to make the drum a nightmare to remove. I believe this will aid in the drum removal process in a few years if I need to remove the drum for brake shoe replacement of brake maintenance that will eventually be required.

 

The first time I removed the rear drums, the right took about 3 hours and the left took about a day and a half. Replaced the shoes and leaky wheel cylinders and cleaned the shaft and drum, greased the shaft and put all back together. About three years later pulled the rear drums looking for a brake fluid leak and the drums popped of with about 20 minutes of the puller and impact gun. I also cut notches in the brake adjustment stud that the nut goes on, on the back of the brake plate, so I could adjust the rear brakes using a flat head screwdriver with out pulling the drum. That worked great. I've pulled one or the other of the drums in recent years for maintenance and had no problem pulling the drums. 

 

Joe Lee

P.S. reminds me I gotta pull the drums this spring to check the shoes and cylinders. been a couple of years since I checked the shoes and the pedal is riding a little low.

[TodFitch]

The tight fit between the tapered shaft and the tapered hole in the hub is what actually transmits the torque between the axle and the hub. Basically the same as your tapered quill on machine tools. The square key is mostly to get things aligned.

 

I would be very cautious about using any lubricant on the axle taper.

[andyd]

And strongly suggest checking the "key" and replacing if there is any wear shown.........key material is usually sold in 12" lengths for a minimal cost, think its 5/16th from memory.....andyd

[kencombs]

Clean, dry and properly torqued is the recipe for a proper install.   We have had several discussions here about the weakness of the design and key failures.   In my past experience have seen those keys loosen, even shear.   But in every case the shaft had been treated to a coating of oily stuff of some kind.   That invites rotation which will damage the key fit.  This dates back to the 60s when I was working on these things at least weekly, usually daily.

 

that's my story and I'm sticken to it!