Where to place jack stands

[Tom_S]

It's been 40 years since I have done any significant work on a car and now I'm starting on my '47 P15!  Doing the brakes.  I'm wondering where the best location is for jack stands if I'm going to take all 4 wheels off?  Should I place them under the frame?  Or, the axle and front suspension?  I noticed that when I jacked up the frame and set the stands under the rear axle the body dropped a bunch when I let the jack down.  I would rather have the body a little higher if that would be safe.

[kencombs]

I've always placed stands under the rear axle as far apart as possible and get a solid location.  Under the front, the lower a-frames outboard of the spring seat.  But be sure that your location is solid with no inclines or protrusions to prevent the stands for seating will with no possibility of slipping.   Move to the frame forward of the suspension in a flat spot if any doubt.

[desoto1939]

To be really safe only jack up the front and leave the rear touching the floor. The front brake drums are easier to get off the spindle. Put the jack stands under the car like the what kencombs stated. Also on the side that you are working on also put your floor jack under the frame on the same side for extra support. Then when that set of brakes is done then install the drum and tire and rim and bolt it tight.  Lower the floor jack and then go to the other side and place the floor jack under the car.

When done install the tire and rim. Then jack up the car and remove each jack stand.

 

Rear  loosen the bolts or lug nuts on the wheels. Jacku p the rear end and place jack stands out as far as you can but leave room to work behind the backing plate.

Get you three or four arm drum puller. Screw out the castle nut to the end of the axle, DO NOT TAKE OFF the castle nut. Put on the wheel pullerr. bring it up tight agains t the end of the axle. Hit the dig Bone end with a 5 lb hammer. It might take several times but the drum will pop off. This is why you left the castle nut on the end of the axle.

Pull the drum off with the key.  Do the same for the other wheel. I also keep the floor jack under the center of the rear pumpkin ask extra support. Do one wheel at a time so you have an example to alway refer back to. Complete both wheels, Adjust the clearence according to your manual for your car. Bleed the brakes if needed right rear, left rear, right front then left front. After bleeding the brake also check the brake pedal to reset the shoes. Also have extra brake fluid on hand to efilll the master cylincder as needed.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Ivan_B]

Under the frame.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I beg to differ....lift the car to a comfortable working height, then lift the car off the lift......lol   Yeah I am spoiled.....

 

 

[Ivan_B]

A lift is the best, for sure. That steering rack ain't supposed to be there, though ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

if it was not there how the heck could I steer the car....??   I lost those tough Fred Flintstone feet many decades ago...

Edited November 17, 2023 by Plymouthy Adams

[Tom_S]

OK, Thanks!  I'm working on the rear first.  I have removed one of the drums.  I'll do that rebuild, then move to the other side.  (I have a complete brake rebuild kit from MoparPro).  That drum came off with the puller much easier than I had heard (on these forums) that it would.  What a relief!  Although the key stayed in the hub.  Should I remove the key or can it remain there?

[Ivan_B]

I would take it out, clean, and lubricate with graphite or copper. Depending on your color preference.

Edited November 17, 2023 by Ivan_B

[Sniper]

Where the jack stands go really depends on what you're trying to do. There's another post recently where somebody thinks something's binding in their steering. In that case I would put the jack stands under the control arms so that I could get under the car and observe the steering and it's normal position without the wheels hanging down. I wouldn't put them under the control arms because I would want the arms the group to make more room to do the brakes. So it just depends. Same thing for the rear if I need to take the rear tires off I got to have the axle drooping otherwise I don't have room. No I do not have stock with tires LOL

[Sam Buchanan]

I put work stands where the possibility of the car falling on me is minimized. The most substantial component in our cars is the frame and that's where my work stands are located. If a suspension member needs to be "de-drooped" I use the floor jack to move the suspension back into road position.

 

I trust these work stands with my life when they are supporting the frame.

 

[Saskwatch]

15 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I put work stands where the possibility of the car falling on me is minimized. The most substantial component in our cars is the frame and that's where my work stands are located. If a suspension member needs to be "de-drooped" I use the floor jack to move the suspension back into road position.

 

I trust these work stands with my life when they are supporting the frame.

 

  Commendable work stands Sam ! Would you mind sharing the length & width that you set the 4X4’s please ?

[JerseyHarold]

I put the tires I've removed under the chassis to catch the car if it falls.

[Ivan_B]

1 hour ago, Saskwatch said:

Would you mind sharing the length & width that you set the 4X4’s please ?

I would guess ~9x12? The construction is similar to the old-school supports miners used, except that they did solid jenga-style columns.

[Sam Buchanan]

2 hours ago, Saskwatch said:

  Commendable work stands Sam ! Would you mind sharing the length & width that you set the 4X4’s please ?

 

There isn't anything special about the dimensions of the stands, I just cut the 4x4's to allow the maximum number of pieces from the stock I had on hand. In my case that worked out to 10".

Edited November 17, 2023 by Sam Buchanan