Fuel Pump Upgrade

[Bob Riding]

My 218 motor in the wagon has been having fuel delivery issues, even before I changed to the Langdon 2 barrel carb, (EMPI 32/36 Weber clone), so I was suspecting the fuel pump. It was NOS, purchased off eBay back in 2013. For a while it was intermittent flow, then no gas to the carb. I pulled the pump and found engine oil inside and what looks like a factory hole in the top I didn't remember seeing before.

 

In addition, my flex fuel line was shot (also NOS from 2013)- it has major cracks that you can't see unless you bend it. I guess even 75 year old American-made rubber can't last forever 

Looking at our regular suppliers, some say rebuilt, but don't say "ethanol resistant parts", others include that phrasing- all cost north of $165. I was able to find a later model pump (no glass bowl) for $35+ shipping from Steve Rotholz, at Globe Auto Parts in Selma CA. He purchased a large number of original fuel pumps that had been rebuilt to handle ethanol fuel. He sells on eBay under Forthebeachonly Great guy and has lots of inventory at very reasonable prices. I'll be installing mine today and will report back.

[Bob Riding]

Well, I was able to install the new fuel pump, designed for '55-56 Plymouths, with no glass bowl. I also replaced the NOS rubber hose with a new SAE 30R7 rubber hose and fittings from NAPA. Total price - $23. As you can see, the old hose was shot. I know our regular vendors sell the correct hose and say they are ethanol resistant, but I KNOW that the SAE30R7 definitely is. Didn't even need to prime it as it started quickly and ran great.  I have the NAPA parts numbers for the fittings if anyone needs them. They don't seem to be normally stocked items.

[FarmerJon]

Glad you got it running. 

I would consider making a new hard line for it, as the one you have looks badly kinked.

[Bob Riding]

Good catch. I saw that it was dented a bit, but at this angle you can really see it. Thanks!

[Ivan_B]

I am using a similar pump, right now, installed by the PO. Really looking to replace it with the OEM-style glass bowl one. Any chance we can just swap the insides? Or are they way different? ?

[Bob Riding]

Not sure, but I have one that I won't be using. PM me if interested.

[Plymouthy Adams]

guess there is a good reason for striving to keep the mechanical pump, none come to mind at the moment.....proper made electric fuel pumps are worry free, long lasting cost effective and just so easy to swap out IF you did have an issue.  IF I thought I needed the pump to be part of the original look, remove the lever and block that bad boy off. 

[Ivan_B]

That could also be a good idea - to use the pump for visuals, as an extra filter bowl, and have the actual electrical pump hidden elsewhere ?

[Curt Lee]

I wouldn't run fuel through an inactive pump (modern fuels and available rubber compounds being what they are) to reduce the possibility of the diaphragm failing and letting the crankcase fill with fuel. Take it off and block it off if you're not using it. There are standalone glass bowl filters that will fill the aesthetic. Myself; I like the mechanical pump and not having to rely on yet another switched power source item. I have several old Walbro-Dupree pumps that can't be rebuilt because there are no ethanol resistant diaphragms for them; I briefly entertained the idea of making one into a filter, but decided the "look" wasn't worth the effort and the risks.

[Ivan_B]

Sure, I know that there were aftermarket glass filters available, but the glass pump on an old car just looks right You can probably remove the insides and bypass it so that it is no longer connected to the crankcase. Have not taken one of these apart, yet., but a lot of creative alterations can be done if you want to make things work ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes, ethanol has made a lot of issue come to the forefront on our old beasts.  Some suppliers address this and supply parts for the upgrade.  But there is hardly a week go by here that some poor soul has not started a thread to the failing mechanical fuel pumps.  Personally I have never had one of these failed units in hand by the obvious statement above, the electric pump is my full bowl of soup.  If out and about, an electric pump is near to hand at most parts stores and the ride home on the flat top less of a worry in the back of your mind.  If running 6 volt, a spare electric is very affordable and cheap insurance in the 'kit' many I hope do have in their trunks.  Many of the older style pumps say AC, Purolator, Carter etc physical size and often crude mounting makes them a bulk item even given you could find kits.  How many vehices made today would have a mechanical pump...things change for a reason.

[Booger]

my new electric fuel pump is ready to install, with new fuel line...IF IT EVER GETS HERE! (4 weeks? Talk about a slow boat from China)

[Plymouthy Adams]

shipping these days is a roll of the dice.  My last order was shipped in two packages as the weight would have been above the FedEx limit for driver if one unit.  I was only advised of the single shipping number, there was two.   They delivered the first half and sent me a message to the fact.  Said delivered at the garage door, well I was working at the garage door all day and if delivered, could well have put in my back pocket.  FedEx office and customer service was the pits.  I checked the other houses on my street, nope.  Next morning there was the two tires on my steps, my neighbor on another street dropped them by.  The next day I got the other two tires but not before my neighbor told the driver he was on the wrong street again.  Still, Fed Ex calls and says they have no clue where the order was delivered or when it would be located.  I left them it as it was, they deserve a lesson in Tracking 101

[Bob Riding]

2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

guess there is a good reason for striving to keep the mechanical pump, none come to mind at the moment.....proper made electric fuel pumps are worry free, long lasting cost effective and just so easy to swap out IF you did have an issue.  IF I thought I needed the pump to be part of the original look, remove the lever and block that bad boy off. 

I'm thinking of following @keithb7's recent video of installing an electric pump. Just makes sense.

[Booger]

Keith is really awesome doing his videos and what not. A real star in this forum. Hey Keith! Big shout out!

[Sniper]

Those hose clamps are not what I would use, they tend to chew up the hose.

 

I would use either a T bolt (EFI) hose clamp

 

 

Or a constant tension (spring) clamp

 

Edited August 15, 2023 by Sniper

[Bob Riding]

Great suggestion, thanks!

[Bob Riding]

Just ordered the T-bolt clamps. 

[Sniper]

1 hour ago, Bob Riding said:

Just ordered the T-bolt clamps. 

 

Good call, the T bolts will work with a carb or EFI, I'd be hesitant to use the spring clamps on an EFI setup, probably not an issue with most of the vehicles this site covers, but some of us are going EFI on them and it's a thing to remember on your DD's, just in case.

[Los_Control]

I would agree with the clamps.

I had to do some work on our caravan injector rail which included new high pressure hose & the T-bolt clamps.

 

Same time had a annoying re-occurring leak where Father used regular fuel line & worm clamps for transmission cooler lines.

About every year the lines would start leaking & have to tighten the clamps again.

So I replaced them with the same high pressure line & clamps .... hoping would correct the problem.

 

I just ordered a assortment kit from Amazon .... think there are 100 or more assorted sized clamps and not very much money .... nice to have extras on the shelf.