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64 belvedere snow balling project


Young Ed

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Started with buying the proper turquoise seatbelts to replace the cheapy black ones. Then decided to put some sound deadener on the floor. Then discovered the floors were patched up pretty decently but then the seams were coating in some rubbery stuff that just pealed right off when I was wiping the floor down before dynamat. So now I've got proper seam sealer drying along with some rust converter on some surface scale. Tomorrow I can finally start reassembling.

 

IMG_20230702_204020.jpg

 

 

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Ah, that slippery slope.  I have my brother-in-law's '57 Ford 2dr sedan that I was going to "freshen-up".  Take maybe a year, and that due more to him living 600 miles away than obvious stuff to do on the car.  Three years later and I'm finally done - all I'm going to do, anyway.  Every time I found something slightly amiss, it turned into a major project.  Now comes the 600 mile return challenge, but he's getting it back in August, one way or another.

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10 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

your touching up is shifting the line in the sand....most all this stuff takes a bit more time than we account for in the beginning....often finding what we need to work with is more involved than the actual work.  Just say thanks you had metal to convert and apply paint to.  ?

I knew the metal was there. I crawled all over this thing before buying. No rust buckets for this kid

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That's true and not what I've got. Just that the last guy did the repairs. Other than whatever black rubbery stuff he used as seam sealer they seem to be installed well. That stuff all pealed right off and I put actual seam sealer over them. 

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Guess I'm a old grumpy geezer ..... I remember shag carpeting in the 70's that caused rust to the floor boards.

Vinyl tops that caused rust to roofs.

While I can imagine a real benefit to modern stick on floor insulation .... I just cant help but wonder what damage it will cause 15 years down the road.

 

Ive heard the story both ways .... you apply it correctly & no moisture gets under it.

You mess up one spot & it festers moisture & rust .....

 

Even though I just have a beater with a heater .... I cant apply that type of insulation ..... looking for some heavy wool to go under the rubber floor mats.

I know this insulation is the hottest thing since sliced bread .... I just do not buy into it..

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That heavy wool has gotta have more water holding potential than this tar stuff. Some of what I used is literally water proof roofing material for houses. 

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10 hours ago, Young Ed said:

That heavy wool has gotta have more water holding potential than this tar stuff. Some of what I used is literally water proof roofing material for houses. 

Yep!   That stuff will get wet just from humidity in the air.  At least it seems that way.

 

IMHO, the key to keeping floorboards rust free is the initial coating.  My choice is heavy coating of epoxy primer over repairs and an Ospho treatment.  Bottom and top.  

 

Then the next layer really doesn't matter as the metal doesn't touch air, no O2, no rust.  At least that's my theory.  Maybe my grandson can pull up the carpet in a down the road  and look, won't matter to me then

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Well I guess my thoughts are they will get air into them & dry out. My 1991 DD has a heavy rubber mat with thick felt padding under it .... I have just used a hose & sprayed the floor for cleaning. Just leave the doors open to dry out.

 

I really should not have a opinion on these insulation mats ..... I really want to change my mind & use them .... its going to be hot in my truck if I do not get something on the roof for a heat shield.

 

I've read & participated in threads on other forums .... It really is a mixed opinion on the subject. Some have had problems with it, while others used it for 20 years with no problem.

 

Replacing the clutch on my DD, I've been under it a lot lately  :(  It has those nerf bars or a step to help you get in .... They are powder coated.

They seem to be decent quality & in good condition. ..... Except the mounting brackets.

Where the bolts & washers tighten on the brackets, the powder coating was weakened & allowed moisture to get under the coating.

Then the moisture just festered & grew until the powder coating failed on the brackets, & there is heavy flaky rust. I can pick flakes of rust the size of a quarter off of them.

The product itself is waterproof, but the moisture gets between the product & the metal .... because it is semi sealed, the problem compounds.

 

I have heard of the same issue with por15, after a few years peels off in sheets & dealing with compounded rust issues because moisture was trapped under it.

 

1 hour ago, kencombs said:

Then the next layer really doesn't matter as the metal doesn't touch air, no O2, no rust.  At least that's my theory.  Maybe my grandson can pull up the carpet in a down the road  and look, won't matter to me then

Maybe epoxy sealer would be the key .... My floor with toe boards, clutch & brake pedals, transmission cover ..... with all the penetrations I have no expectations of getting it sealed up. Same with the roof. I have 3 cab lights across the top, maybe a chrome horn if I can find the right one ..... any air pocket left between the metal & product ... the metal will get condensation  ..... 

I wish I could just turn a blind eye and use the product ...... I'm the guy that will be lying wide awake at 3:00 AM listening to the rain & wondering if my truck is rusting

???

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Car is reassembled and of course we had to test drive to DQ. Noticeably quieter. You can hardly hear it running at idle. 

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