Doug&Deb Posted April 28, 2023 Report Share Posted April 28, 2023 I’m ready to put my rebuilt engine in my 52 Coronet. I have to pull the other engine out and I’ve never done this before. I know the trans(M6) has to come out first . Any tips on the whole process would be appreciated. The shop manual explains the trans removal but I’m wondering about the clutch linkage. Do I need any special tools besides a trans jack and guide bolts? This is all new to me so help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted April 28, 2023 Report Share Posted April 28, 2023 If you want to make it really easy also pull the hood and radiator. Just disconnect the clutch and shift linkages and make your guide bolts on the short side. If they are too ling the tranny case will run into a cross member before you can lower it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted April 28, 2023 Report Share Posted April 28, 2023 Before you start yankin', take LOTS of photos of how stuff is connected. I mean LOTS of photos at different angles. These can be invaluable when you start wondering how something was prior to engine swap. Did I mention you need to take lots of photos? ? 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted April 28, 2023 Report Share Posted April 28, 2023 I have my gantry crane and some lifting eyes to pull my engine. I do not trust my 30+ year old engine hoist with that monstrosity of a flathead hanging from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 I cannot speak to the ‘52 Coronet. What I can say is make it easy for yourself. Remove the hood and rad, whatever else you can out front. Lift it up and out with lots of room and great visibility. Get small bags for parts and label them for ease of reassembly. Scratch or mark lines exactly where the hood higes mount to the hood. Again for ease of reassembly. Perhaps you can leave the tranny and clutch connected to the engine? Pull it all out together. Then you can easily unbolt and split what you want from the comfort of your own living room. Take lots of photos. Better yet make a YouTube video for us to watch and be entertained! Lol. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 First most important step as mentioned.... Take lots and lots of good quality pictures....and even more different angle pictures. Use a tilt-a-bar on your lift to angle the engine and bell housing complete with the fluid coupling out of the chassis. Do not take apart , unscrew the over center spring turn buckle...not necessary. Use a hoist on level concrete or flat asphalt. Take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted April 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 How do you connect the leveling bar to the engine? Mine requires removing 4 head bolts and I’d rather not do that. As far as leaving the trans connected that won’t work. If I was removing the front clip maybe. The bell housing is fairly long to accommodate the fluid coupling. This will definitely be a learning experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saskwatch Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 I hear you Doug , I did Not want to remove any head bolts either to bolt up the leveling bar….. I had the front clip removed so it was much easier to use some appropriate length chains that bolted up to the blocks lower holes by the bell housing at the rear , the generator mounting hole on the left front & for the right front I used the front two exhaust manifold mounting studs to hold a steel plate with appropriate placed holes all to bolt up to the leveling bar …. Kind of “Mickey Mouse” set up but it worked ??♂️ Now, I was lowering the engine in , not tugging it out , I also had the radiator & frame removed… personally I would not want to attempt this without radiator removal , just that much less stressful not having to lift that beast up any higher than you have to ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 (edited) The leveling bars I use on the flat head sixes use two head bolts...one at the front of engine..one at the rear. IME you need to tilt the engine and FD to easily remove it. The engine needs to tilt at a fair angle on removal and install. Assemble it close to the head- short chains or "L" brackets. A picture of the typical bar... Just a recommendation.... Edited April 29, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saskwatch Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 Is it alright to just remove those two head bolts, (front & rear) install engine, unhook leveler then just reinstall those two head bolts and retorque ? Sure would have been a lot easier but I’m more than a bit paranoid over those head bolts , getting everything just right and keeping it that way ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 Everyone keeps saying it's a beast of an engine. How much does it weigh? I've removed engines with some pretty small bolts. Look at a Chevy small block, four 5/16ths bolts. I have used bolts in shear until they are bent with no problem. Using four head bolts is over kill. The head gasket will be fine. But if you dont want to, there are plenty of bolt holes on the side like starter, generator and manifold bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 About 800 lbs with trans attached 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 Not like this. The stubborn way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saskwatch Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 46 minutes ago, D35 Torpedo said: Everyone keeps saying it's a beast of an engine. How much does it weigh? I've removed engines with some pretty small bolts. Look at a Chevy small block, four 5/16ths bolts. I have used bolts in shear until they are bent with no problem. Using four head bolts is over kill. The head gasket will be fine. But if you dont want to, there are plenty of bolt holes on the side like starter, generator and manifold bolts. I wasn’t really referring to the shear strength of the head bolts but rather that we just had gone through the proper procedure of installing, torque in sequence, then turn around & pop a couple out to hook up the hoist …… probably overthinking things but sooo many ways to do it wrong, only one way to do it right. ??♂️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 (edited) My favorite quick and easy lifting eye bolt hook to just "yank" a flathead six or eight out of junk cars and just to move them around.. Edited April 30, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya Spell check 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted April 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 I guess I’ll just have to remove a couple head bolts and carefully re-torque after. I definitely have to angle this to get it in. The bell housing on fluid drive cars is longer than the standard trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 The engine itself is not that heavy, lighter and shorter than a Chevy six, but darn, Mopar clutch and FD housings are heavy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted April 30, 2023 Report Share Posted April 30, 2023 11 hours ago, Saskwatch said: I wasn’t really referring to the shear strength of the head bolts but rather that we just had gone through the proper procedure of installing, torque in sequence, then turn around & pop a couple out to hook up the hoist …… probably overthinking things but sooo many ways to do it wrong, only one way to do it right. ??♂️ Nor was I.....ok think about it this way.....you torque the head from inside, out. So what does it matter if you remove the outer bolts? As long as you don't pull the threads out, literally nothing can go wrong. There are several ways to do it. I mentioned a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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