Alternator Wiring?

[OUTFXD]

Got my new alternator.  Installed it,  that was an adventure!  Got evertthing back together aaaand,  no joy.

 

Ran a test on the alternator and it was putting out 10v.   Wire on the back to the Bat wire on my voltage regulator...

 

I cant help but notice that there is no output to charge the battery.  What did I miss?

 

Help!  I miss driving my car!

[Los_Control]

You missed pictures of what alternator you have.

 

[OUTFXD]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234736065907

[Saskwatch]

I’m studying the picture of Sam Buchanan’s engine bay & I’m also sure I read where you no longer need the voltage regulator when you have this alternator…… there was a post not that long ago about the proper alternator installation wiring but just can’t find it….. you are almost there my friend!?

[Saskwatch]

Just scroll down a few topics, on the first page ,  -“  38plymouths “post on Altenator installation, January 31 , I think your answer is there ?

[Sam Buchanan]

15 hours ago, OUTFXD said:

Got my new alternator.  Installed it,  that was an adventure!  Got evertthing back together aaaand,  no joy.

 

Ran a test on the alternator and it was putting out 10v.   Wire on the back to the Bat wire on my voltage regulator...

 

I cant help but notice that there is no output to charge the battery.  What did I miss?

 

Help!  I miss driving my car!

 

Looks like the alternator is working fine so you have a wiring problem. You need to use a multimeter to start at the connection where you attached the alternator to the BAT lead to verify voltage then start working downstream to find an open connection. I don't know if it would make any difference but disconnect the A and F wires from the regulator.

 

You do have a wiring diagram, right? Use it to trace the paths from the alternator to the battery verifying voltage as you go. YOu should see about 7.5v with the alternator running. I don't understand your 10v reading....how did you test the alternator??

Edited April 12, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[OUTFXD]

44 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I don't know if it would make any difference but disconnect the A and F wires from the regulator.

Already done,  The arm and the fld wires ran to the generator,  With the generator removed they where just loose so I removed them.

 

46 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I don't understand your 10v reading....how did you test the alternator??

Multimeter,  One lead on ground the other on the power terminal on the new alternator.

[Sam Buchanan]

4 minutes ago, OUTFXD said:

Already done,  The arm and the fld wires ran to the generator,  With the generator removed they where just loose so I removed them.

 

Multimeter,  One lead on ground the other on the power terminal on the new alternator.

 

I don't know exactly how the alternator's voltage regulator works, but that may be a normal reading if it can't "see" battery voltage.

[OUTFXD]

Looks like I have some fresh wires to run.  Quick question.   With the wiring set up as in the picture below,   How does the voltage regulator work? It seems like the voltage regulator is just a convenient point to Jump all the wires together.

 

Edited April 12, 2023 by OUTFXD
Wrong pic LOL

[Plymouthy Adams]

on your very picture is the note to use the regulator for a common connection point or replace with a junction block...regulator is not used, just a convenient connection point

[Sam Buchanan]

55 minutes ago, OUTFXD said:

Looks like I have some fresh wires to run.  Quick question.   With the wiring set up as in the picture below,   How does the voltage regulator work? It seems like the voltage regulator is just a convenient point to Jump all the wires together.

 

 

Your new alternator has an internal voltage regulator, that is the beauty of the one-wire system, no external regulator needed. Follow Plymouthy's advice, either use the old terminal as a junction point or tie the wires together and toss the regulator. That is why you don't see a regulator in my installation, just a fuse between the car's BAT wire and the alternator's output.

 

[LazyK]

Confused

You said the output measured 10 volts. The link you provided is for a 6 volt positive ground alternator.

Edited April 12, 2023 by LazyK

[Plymouthy Adams]

I read that also but as I have no idea of the tester quality and accuracy, could be anything on an uncalibrated meter and left it at that.

[Booger]

16 hours ago, OUTFXD said:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234736065907

wow 100 amps. Woulnt 60 do the job? (or does it matter?)

[OUTFXD]

53 minutes ago, LazyK said:

Confused

You said the output measured 10 volts. The link you provided is for a 6 volt positive ground alternator.

Same here.  I bought a 6v pos ground alternator and thats what it says on all the literature.  Only thing I can think of is without load to tell the regulator to knock it off,  the alternator is just running at full swing.

[OUTFXD]

12 minutes ago, Booger said:

wow 100 amps. Woulnt 60 do the job? (or does it matter?

It was close enough to 60amps It made no nevermind to me. And I plan on towing a Teardrop trailer and was advised I would be better off with a high output alternator.

 

Also (I dont know if this is relative to the automotive world) I know a computer power source is most efficient, and there for happier and more long lived, at about 50% load.

[Sam Buchanan]

16 minutes ago, Booger said:

wow 100 amps. Woulnt 60 do the job? (or does it matter?)

 

It doesn't matter. The alternator will only supply the amount of current needed to keep the battery charged. 100a would only be needed if there were very heavy loads (large electric fan, AC, emergency lights, flux capacitor...???).

[OUTFXD]

2 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

100a would only be needed if there were very heavy loads (large electric fan, AC, emergency lights, flux capacitor...???).

We need to get this car to 88 miles per hour!

 

Looks like I messed up on the wiring. and of course its snowing.  I might get to straightening the wiring out this evening.

[Plymouthy Adams]

snow..........that's a four letter word...!!

[Sniper]

3 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

I don't know exactly how the alternator's voltage regulator works, but that may be a normal reading if it can't "see" battery voltage.

 

Alternators do not put out anything if they can't see battery voltage.  You need the battery to excite the field (Technically, the field coil electromagnet) windings in order for an alternator to output, that's how the regulator controls the output, btw.

[OUTFXD]

Sun came out so I decided to play a bit. Moved some wires around, got 6.9v.  Nice but not quite there.  Checked the wires again,  Put new Terminal ends on a couple. She didnt want to fire up and my battery was half dead.   Put the jumpers on and cranked. It took a minute,  I went to full choke as it was... chilly out.  She coughed and fired,  Didnt want to run  for the stereo typical flathead 10-15 seconds.  Then she leveled out and purred.  I pulled the jumpers and put the multipul digit reader on.  SEVEN POINT THREE VOLTS!

 

Jordan fades back! He jumps!  WOOSH!  Its a three pointer and THATS THE GAME!