1948 Chrysler Royal problems with ignition

[Tom Skinner]

Colbs,

I looked to share them and somebody has already scarfed them up.

They don't appear often. I should have just messaged you. Posting here might have

got them gone immediately since they are so rare. 

Tom

[Tom Skinner]

Colbs,

I believe the place was in Portland Oregon. I googled Starter Rebuilders there and 3 came up, I can't recall which one was listing the $250 one.

Maybe a Google Search will help. Also there is a guy in GA named Frank that carries one or two occationally.

FRMopar I believe his handle is - but not sure. Usually the winding breaks and that is the reason the selenoid quits working.

Good Luck searching. Some one might had seen my Post and grabed that $9.99 SS4703 up. They are not on ebay now. They sell extremely fast.

Tom

[Sniper]

1 hour ago, Tom Skinner said:

Also there is a guy in GA named Frank that carries one or two occasionally.

 

Frank Mitchell passed on some years ago.  But someone is still running it under another name.

 

http://www.amsnos.com/

[OldPly]

If your car is 12v you can get one Eazy . I have changed lots of them on cars I have owned pre 1990 (Ford's and American motors etc ) even my 10 year old John Deere lawn trector  has one very small starter. my p15 has 1 I got from Princess auto (I think 10 or 15$ ) I don't know if thay ship to the states it maybe a Canadian only thing

[Dodgeb4ya]

The solenoid opened up... not too much to it... be attentive when dis-assembling as to parts insulators etc. 

[colbs]

@Dodgeb4ya in picture #3 the piece that turns down and has the leg on it, is that on the long post or the short post? I know thats the lock piece that keeps the post from turning but I don't remember if mine had a leg on it like that

[colbs]

Also I know part of the insulator on the long post on the inside of the bracket had a corner broke off but I didn't think that would be a big deal but now that I think about it, could that be the problem? If so can I buy just the insulator?

@Sniper thanks for the website! I didn't know there was another market out there beside bernbaum

[Dodgeb4ya]

1 hour ago, colbs said:

@Dodgeb4ya in picture #3 the piece that turns down and has the leg on it, is that on the long post or the short post? I know thats the lock piece that keeps the post from turning but I don't remember if mine had a leg on it like that

That is the inboard shorter stud or post.

[colbs]

41 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

That is the inboard shorter stud or post.

Thanks!

[greg g]

The solenoid is a simple electro magnetic swith. When energized by one of the small wires from the start button, a magnet pulls together the contacts inside to connect the large cables from the battery to the starter.  This magnet should shut off when the button is released.  If not either the button switch isn't disconnection, or the large connectors in the solenoid are sticking in the connected position.  This fault is likely mechanical.  Friction, broken spring, dirt,  something in the way of releasing the contacts.  Or electrically an inadvertent ground, which would act the same as the start button signal.

 

There is a thing called the mechanics helper which is basically a remote for the starter button.  For what they cost, it's a cheap way to check your starter circuits.  It's basically a professional hot wire tool.

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7002623?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIybGr6_W__AIVYP_jBx2G_Q7eEAQYAyABEgK-A_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

[Tom Skinner]

Colbs,

I searched recently viewed in my ebay. The Guy's handle on ebay is: 2ndgenautoparts. He is in Oregon.

He rebuilds selenoids. It seems he knows the SS4705 etc for our Fluid Drives, if you haven't figured yours out.

I would Search him and contact him if need be, I believe he is listing a SS4703 at present.

It seems he wants @ $250 for all of his Selenoid Rebuilds though. Which probably not that bad since I paid $150 for

just a Selenoid Winding for my MAX4050 Starter Selenoid about 9 years ago to rebuild mine.

Not sure of his method of S&H etc. I would contact him if that place in GA can't help you with a part. 

I bought my winding from Frank 9 years ago. He must have still been there, I spoke with him on the phone, Nice Guy, too bad he is gone now.

Tom

[desoto1939]

Did anyone look at the 4th picture? The copper wire where it bends the insulation has been removed and the wire is bare and very close to a screw.  Or is this a unit that needs to be rebuilt? Seems as if the bare wire might cause some issues.

 

Rich Hartung

[Dodgeb4ya]

It was a unit I took apart to fix several years ago.

The ompromised wire in question connects to the relay. As for the insulation repair I used black Plasti-Dip to seal the bare spot on that wire lead.

 

[colbs]

I just wanted to thank everyone for all the information and help! I made it down to AMS Obsolete yesterday 1.27.23 and bought several parts and plan to go back in 2 weeks time! They are an amazing outfit with everything imaginable! I will need some help with a couple of the parts I did buy as far as how they are supposed to go because I didn't have these parts when I bought my car but I will be making one or 2 separate posts for those. Again thanks so much! I'll be reinstalling the starter tomorrow and hope it all works! I will of course keep everyone appraised of what happens

[colbs]

So as yall know I went to Georgia last week and got parts, I finally caught a break in the weather and so I installed the solenoid and hooked it back up and hooked up the oil pump but then when it turned over it was hard backfiring on initial turn over then nothing, so today I got to looking and I had the #1 plug wire at the 12 o'clock position and TDC is 10 o'clock so I rotated the plug wires 1 to the left but now all it does is chuff and that's only on the last stroke when releasing the starter, so I know spark is no longer my problem, any ideas? Also I hooked up the battery to a charger (Schumacher 6V/12V and jump off combo) because it was getting weak, it was at 68% when I went to try again (battery was 78%) I tried turning it over still nothing so I gave up for the day, as I went to unhook the charger it was saying F01 bad battery... this is the 5th battery since like March or April of last year, why is it killing batteries with me unhooking the battery between starts like you should

[joecoozie]

If your timing is set correctly the #1 plug wire (and rotor) should be at 7 o'clock (or close) on cyl #1 compression stroke

 

 

[colbs]

@joecoozie I will give that a shot, I could very easily have been seeing in my head on the timing, any idea why it's killing so many batteries?

[Sam Buchanan]

12 hours ago, colbs said:

Also I hooked up the battery to a charger (Schumacher 6V/12V and jump off combo) because it was getting weak, it was at 68% when I went to try again (battery was 78%) I tried turning it over still nothing so I gave up for the day, as I went to unhook the charger it was saying F01 bad battery... this is the 5th battery since like March or April of last year, why is it killing batteries with me unhooking the battery between starts like you should

 

I wonder if all those batteries (five batteries in one year??) are actually ruined. It looks like you are using a "smart" charger that requires the battery to have some amount of voltage before it will begin charging. If the battery has been run down all the way the charger will indicate a faulty battery. You will then need to put a "dumb" charger on the battery to bring it back up to voltage so the smart charger will work properly.

 

I also wonder if the charging system on your car is faulty and not charging the battery. In that case you are storing a battery in a depleted state and it doesn't take long for it to go flat. A voltmeter across the battery terminals when the car is running will indicate ~7.5v if the battery is being charged properly.

 

I have never needed to disconnect the battery between drives, the battery stays connected all the time--I will put the smart charger on it maybe once to bring it back to full charge in the winter when temps in the garage drop.

Edited February 3, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[Sniper]

It could also be a bad charger. 

[colbs]

I never let the batteries get completely dead I would always hook them up when they started getting noticeably weak usually around 40-60%, I also have a small maintainer that is "smart" in the sense it knows 12 or 6V but the big charger I'm using you select between 6v 2amp charge, 40amp boost and 200amp jump

[colbs]

I also replaced the brushes in the generator last year bc it was an issue by killing one while running

[colbs]

The '48 is back running! Timing has been fixed, new points, condenser and coil and battery cables and its running for now, I will be replacing the brushes I put in the generator last year because I had to put them in upside down (They were the ones that was "supposed" to fit) but AMS is sending me some in the mail and I'll put them in and be on the road again hopefully! Thanks again for all the help and Information yall!