colbs

I honestly will probably by the mechanical switch especially seeing as how the switch I have to replace has the female connectors and so does my wiring harness I appreciate everything as always guys! Hopefully I can slow down long enough to work on her soon!

Thanks! I appreciate the answers! I'm hoping everything will work out with this switch!

I need to replace the brake light switch on my '48 royal but it's the original inl8ne switch thats activated via the brake fluid and I was wondering how the switch worked if it was truly fluid activated or it it had an air gap in it (in other words do I need to bleed the brakes when I replace the switch?)

@Mezz Its a brown dash (painted to look like wood grain) but all my bakelite was a blonde color, I believe I found all the pieces I need but I will let you know if I need anything!

@D35 Torpedo I neutralized it with soda water and then added an additional 6 lbs of baking soda on the ground, belt, battery shelf and generator plus it rained pretty good that night and most of the following day! @nonstop ill look into the 00 AWG wire! @Sniper thanks I'll look into that! But I'm a sitting duck until I get the rest of my taxes back

Not a stupid question, no I do not have a battery hold down, the box it sits on it almost rusted away and I will be building a box for it, but I have had the car some 2019 and this is the first time the battery has ever moved itself, I think the length of the battery cable was the culprit, it's a little taught. I will be replacing the battery shelf and the shirt cable I'm just only able to do so many parts at a time and I will have to by my cable by the foot this time bc I bought the longest advanced had in 2AWG battery cables

@D35 Torpedo no unfortunately i did not resolve this issue and unfortunately i am not able to at this time, i got the car running and decided to chance the battery and drive it to my place from my parents (around 10-12 miles, and maybe a 15 minute ride mostly highway) and when I got it here and parked I popped the hood to check everything and my battery had shifted and was on the belt and had just started leaking fluid, so now until I replace the battery or (God forbid I do something like this ? ) I repare the battery and try it out (knowing me I'll try reparing the battery first bc why not)

And now I feel dumb ?

Yes ammeter returns to 0 when switch is off, as well as if the batter is unhooked. I didn't work on it today but my new voltage regulator showed up today so weather permitting it is going on tomorrow it was packaged in 52 and sealed with wax ?. The belt it at the max of the generator but only has the 1/4 but im having a hard time matching up a belt at the parts house (do you have modern part number for one?) so I may have to order one thru AMS but forgot when I ordered VR. Also the ammeter never drops all the way to -35 when the battery has died out completely either

Awesome! I'll check their site out!

Thanks! I do have some so I'll check ebay! What about the bezel around the starter button and the door trim pieces that go beside the metal trim? Do you know where one can find those?

@Dave72dt I will unhook the power feed to the main lighting switch and hook up the battery and see how the ammeter reacts while running

I will give this a shot and see! Would you use a jumper wire hooked from the field side of the regulator?

Tbh I have one of those I legit meant the one they talk about in the manual with a 6v bulb in a socket, it can be used for setting timing bc it has alligator clips instead of a probe

I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal and I was wondering if anyone knew where a man could find the bakelite trimming and handle escutcheons or has the dimensions so I could try and 3D print them if need be!

@nonstop when you say full fielding what do you mean exactly? Unhooking one side of the battery whilst the car is running or unhooking the field side on either the generator or VR?

I have a 48 Royal and I was able to find some NOS rear shock absorbers to replace my current ones but couldnt find NOS fronts, in the service manual I have it says you can rebuild the shock absorbers but I cant figure out how to take the new ones I have apart to change the fluid in (seems weak to me and after 75 years I understand why). Has anyone taken their shock absorbers apart and if so how do I do it? The new ones dont have any slots for any kind of tool or anything, if I have to take my currents off and rebuild those instead I am willing to do that but again need in-depth information on how to do it. Thanks in advanced!

Which light switch? Main lighting, Panel Lights, Map lights, door switch or B pillar light switch? Also how do I make a test light for all the various checks the book claims you can use it for? If someone knows how to do that

I do not know but I will give that a shot, and yes it shows discharge while starting, and while running, if you turn on the headlights it tanks the ammeter

@joecoozieyes I have set polarity bit arcing the armature and battery wires together with a jumper lead. @Plymouthy Adams I can't remember the reading exactly, the tests that should've said zero or practically zero were I do know the battery and armature voltage was supposed to read .12 (according to my book all my voltage is less that 1) and the test showed a range from like .67 to 1 point something and then settled back down but was over .12 I can't remember now what that was though I did the test Sunday afternoon and can't test them again until tomorrow when I'll work off and I can give accurate numbers as I read them

I'm back with more burning questions! On Baby (1948 Royal) I've had problems with killing batteries to the point they dead cell on me (about 5 or 6 in a rolling year) I have rebuilt the generator doing the brushes and undercutting the mica. When I put the brushes in I cleaned the armature with 180 grit sand paper (all I had and idk what 00 sand paper is tbh) and then I also turned the generator with a drill to cut the brushes down til they sat even on the armature. I installed everything and fired her off and the ammeter still shows discharge not a full notch but enough that itll kill the battery if I run the car too long (based on past experience), I went to the shop manual I have and checked the voltage regulator outputs and once I found one that was out I figured thats the problem and have ordered a nos one. I did check the air gaps and point gaps and set them proper on the VR and filed the points prior to gapping them, I also noticed that my generator turns against the long edge of the brushes instead of the short end, essentially my belt turns towards the drivers side but it seems like my generator is set up to be turned counter clockwise from the front of the vehicle but turns clockwise, am I overthinking the brushes and generator in Baby and have I missed anything in the charging system (with the exception of testing the ammeter) or is there another reason the car is killing batteries whilst running?

The '48 is back running! Timing has been fixed, new points, condenser and coil and battery cables and its running for now, I will be replacing the brushes I put in the generator last year because I had to put them in upside down (They were the ones that was "supposed" to fit) but AMS is sending me some in the mail and I'll put them in and be on the road again hopefully! Thanks again for all the help and Information yall!

I also replaced the brushes in the generator last year bc it was an issue by killing one while running

I never let the batteries get completely dead I would always hook them up when they started getting noticeably weak usually around 40-60%, I also have a small maintainer that is "smart" in the sense it knows 12 or 6V but the big charger I'm using you select between 6v 2amp charge, 40amp boost and 200amp jump

@joecoozie I will give that a shot, I could very easily have been seeing in my head on the timing, any idea why it's killing so many batteries?