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Optima battery suddenly too weak to crank on 48 DeSoto!


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Posted
11 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I'm on my 9th rum and coke...

I think it's wurking....

Al Green and alcohol can't miss. ❤️

  • Like 1
Posted

If you're getting spark from the coil wire, the points and condenser are working.  Only three places to look.  Is the rotor on? Is there a contact button for the rotor in the center of the cap?  Are they the correct rotor and cap for the distributor?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I think I found the culprit.  I examined my coil to dist. cable.  The coil end had a brass cleat pressed on it.  The cleat on the other end is missing.  I assume that the brass cleat is important.  I also assume that the local parts stores don't sell them.  Time to sweep my garage floor!  

Edited by MarcDeSoto
Posted

Parts stores do sell them.  Finding one that stocks them may be more difficult.  Places that sell small engines may have them.  Look inside the cap terminal.  It may be stuck inside there.

  • Like 1
Posted

It wasn't in the cap terminal, but it was in the coil stuck way down deep.  I had to take the coil off and dig it out of there with a very skinny screw driver.  I re-installed the cable and thought that would be the end of my problem.  but still no spark.  By this time, my battery was really winding down with a very slow cranking speed.  I put my NoCo Genius 10 on it and it did what it always does.  Charge for 5 minutes and shut off.  So I put my very old Schauer battery charger on it, and it started charging it at 12 amps.  So I'll check again for spark tomorrow after the battery is charged.  

Posted

   With solid core wires, I like to solder the wire to the crimp end at the distributor and coil wire. You can’t depend on a good contact otherwise. Rick D.

  • Like 1
Posted

I pulled my coil cable out today and the metal cleat came off again and is stuck in the coil.  It looks crumpled now and I can't get it out.  Question:  Why does the coil cable have this little chinzy small cleat that doesn't stay on, while all the other spark plug cables have a big cleat that encircles the cable and can't come off?  

Posted

Are you rebuilding the engine and re-using old plug wires of unknown age?

Posted

No, I am using brand new cables from MoparPro.  This shows the cleats that went on all of the spark plug cables except the coil cleat.  The coil cleat is smaller and does not encircle the cable and comes off easily.  

cleats.jpg

Posted (edited)

I suggest you email the seller and ask him for an explanation.  If his answer is not satisfactory ask for a refund.  Please consider posting his response. I’m sure interested in hearing it. 
 

Going on my rant now…

 

OEM parts are high quality and fit perfectly for many reasons. The engineers designed and and tested their parts for fitment and reliability. The corporation’s reputation is on the line.  High quality parts cost more and are worth it. The parts fit right do what you expect them to do. 
 

Sending out OEM parts to the cheapest manufacturer to reproduce them won’t end well.  Selling parts under the premise that you are a knowledgeable expert may attract buyers at least once. A reputable seller should have controls in place to ensure quality and fitment for the consumer. A manufacturer of parts should at least have a designer/engineer on speed dial to monitor production, review and tweak products as needed. 
 

I try a and seek out good quality Mopar parts wherever I can. OEM new is the best. Good used is my 2nd choice. New aftermarket 3rd. The new aftermarket manufacturer should be reputable and strive to provide high quality parts. Constantly improving where needed. 

I avoid some sellers at all costs. Some will take your money and leave you cold. Some put lipstick on a pig and sell you boat anchor. Buyer beware. 

 

Edited by keithb7
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Not saying it is the best way, I just got on Rockauto and ordered individual plug & coil wires at a length that would work.

So they were all ready made. I did not need to crimp them myself.

They were really cheap, but seem to work fine.

 

My thoughts were to just get the engine to run ... then later I would want to get high quality wires & crimps to make a custom set .... I wanted to use the cloth covered wire With quality ends. Like in the photo but different colored wire.

The end you show in your picture you can mess with it & get it to work .... for $5 you can just buy a good wire from local parts store.

 

20190421_165933_1024x1024.jpg?v=1590959688

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I just wrote to the seller MoparPro to see if he could send me another metal cleat.  I see from your picture and his picture that all of the straight cleats should be the same and one of mine wasn't.  

Posted (edited)

I bought that cloth wire kit from Ton's for my 53 and it is worth every penny. Great kit, lots of colors to choose from. 

Screenshot_20230108-133655.png

Edited by allbizz49
Posted
On 1/3/2023 at 5:53 PM, Sniper said:

When I got my 51 it had about 50 psi in each hole, it runs fine.  I ought to retest, I might just do that tomorrow, depending on how rough the dentist gets with my teeth, lol.

 

Well I ran another compression test.  Lowest was 40 psi, highest was 54, dry.  Not much different than it was two years ago.  I've run MMO in the oil to free up any rings that might be stuck.  Plug colors look ok.  No blowby to speak of.

 

I suspect it's the clacky valve tappets killing part or even all of those numbers.  It's well worn and I have a 230 build in progress so I am not going to sweat it.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, MarcDeSoto said:

I just wrote to the seller MoparPro to see if he could send me another metal cleat.  I see from your picture and his picture that all of the straight cleats should be the same and one of mine wasn't.  

 

If your wires are solid copper conductors just strip 1/2" of the insulation, bend the conductor over the insulation, insert into the coil....and start the engine.

  • Like 3
Posted

I found a cleat like the one that failed from NAPA and I'm getting plenty of spark out of the coil, but still no spark at the plugs where I need it.  I had spark there on Friday and I don't know what happened.  

Posted

You're back to the cap and rotor.  There's nothing else left unless all six plug wires are bad.  New cap? New rotor?  If so, were they ordered for that particular dist. part number, not year and make, but by the distributor model?

  • Like 1
Posted

I have more caps and rotors.  No I didn't know you could order for a particular dist. part number.  Mine are just for 48 DeSoto and that's all I know.  

Posted (edited)

you probably can't verify that distributor is original to the car and there are variations in the parts for them depending on the model number.  There have been numerous posts stressing the importance of needing the model number to ensure getting correct parts.

 

Compare your other caps to the one installed.  I think you'll find something not right about the coil terminal post either on the outside or inside of the cap.

Edited by Dave72dt
  • Like 1
Posted

I checked again for spark and now I have spark at the plugs!  I can't say why it didn't have spark the last two days.  As soon as I closed the choke all the way, BANG, it started!!!  Black smoke was flying out of the engine everywhere!  It was literally pouring out of the valve tappets area!  Even though I have the exhaust system all connected, the garage instantly filled with smoke.  So, I think I won't start it again until I put the valve covers back on.  But I guess it's normal for a rebuilt engine to smoke and snarl when it's first started since I rebuilt it 40 years ago!  I'll try to burn off the excess oil and gas and get it tamed tomorrow.  

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