Head Gasket placement

[Ernie Baily]

This is probably is a stupid question. I'm changing the head gasket on my 48 Plymouth and I'm not sure which way the copper gasket goes? When I pulled it apart the solid copper side was down on the block. However I was told  the copper side should be next to the head. There is no up or down markings on the gasket and the instruction sheet with the gasket set does not say anything.

 

Please advise!

 

Thanks, Ernie

[Bryan]

35 minutes ago, Ernie Baily said:

This is probably is a stupid question. I'm changing the head gasket on my 48 Plymouth and I'm not sure which way the copper gasket goes? When I pulled it apart the solid copper side was down on the block. However I was told  the copper side should be next to the head. There is no up or down markings on the gasket and the instruction sheet with the gasket set does not say anything.

 

Please advise!

 

Thanks, Ernie

Possibly with the bolt pattern it will only go one way.   I'd have to check, not feeling too good right now.  Mine might have been copper on both sides. Can't remember. In picture look at the center top bolt - offset?

Edited June 10, 2022 by Bryan

[kencombs]

I think you'll find it only fits one way.  Gasket sealer on the copper side only.

[John Fleming]

I recently replaced the head gasket on my P15  Plymouth 1948. I used modern Felpro gasket .  The gasket fits one way copper side to block . I called Felpro and was told to use copper spray gasket sealer on the copper side of gasket that seals to engine block. No sealer was used on the side which is to cylinder head. Thread sealer was used on the cylinder head bolts which go through the water jacket .  No water leaks observed.  Best wishes for a successful project. 

[Frank Gooz]

Ernie,

I agree with John Fleming

I just finished up put a new head gasket on my 1950 Dodge 230.ci..

I had the head touched up at the machine shop, Also used the Felpro gasket with copper spray on the copper side. The copper side to the block.

Then i put thread seal on the bolts starting two threads from the end. made three rounds with the torquer wrench. 

Hope this helps

 

[Ernie Baily]

Well, I just finished putting back together and she runs nice.  However it sure cranks slow to start, I do realize that the compression has increased due to the new gasket, but are there any thoughts on how to speed up the cranking to start? I have a Petronics conversion(6volt) and the battery cables were new and the proper size(from Andy Bernbaum many years ago). Starter & Generator have been rebuilt a couple years ago too! I rebuilt the carb myself about a year ago too!

[Plymouthy Adams]

have you done any amperage draw tests or any voltage drop test to ascertain the physical attributes of the system are within specs?  If not, this is the place to start....if any finding....proceed to correct deficiencies as found.

[Sam Buchanan]

2 hours ago, Ernie Baily said:

Well, I just finished putting back together and she runs nice.  However it sure cranks slow to start, I do realize that the compression has increased due to the new gasket, but are there any thoughts on how to speed up the cranking to start? I have a Petronics conversion(6volt) and the battery cables were new and the proper size(from Andy Bernbaum many years ago). Starter & Generator have been rebuilt a couple years ago too! I rebuilt the carb myself about a year ago too!

 

Where is the battery ground cable attached to the engine? Is it on the head? If so you could verify the ground connection hasn't been compromised in the process of reinstalling the head.

[greg g]

Some old timers will tell you to put a thin coat of AP grease on the upper side to facilitate head movement during the torquing procedure.  I did.

[Los_Control]

5 hours ago, Ernie Baily said:

However it sure cranks slow to start, I do realize that the compression has increased due to the new gasket, but are there any thoughts on how to speed up the cranking to start?

That really sounds like a poor ground issue or would be the first place I would look. The 6 volt pertonix is that still positive ground? Does not matter just curious.

 

I do not know where your ground wire connects to the vehicle ... on my truck it is from the battery to the transmission.

I'm trying to think what is factory for me should also apply to your car ... I think we should have a ground from the battery to the engine/transmission, A ground strap from the engine to the frame, and another strap from the engine to the body. .... I really do not know if this is correct but when I rewire mine I will wire it this way.

 

Just possible the ground connection from the battery to the engine/transmission you installed years ago was borderline of corrosion & going to cause you this issue anyways ... soon.

Just saying the very first thing I would do is clean all the ground connections. The wire to the block, to the frame, to the cab. That may or may not fix your problem.

Your issue is a symptom of a bad ground.

 

If it does not fix your issue, now when we pull out the test equipment we know we have good connections to get good test results.

Who knows, maybe your battery is starting to take a crap on you and no longer has the CCA it needs .... Does putting the battery on a charger help before starting?

First thing I would do is clean all grounds ... probably put the battery on the charger while doing this .... just by watching the needle on the charger I will know if it is low or not.