Need some some help on brake line routing for 48 DeSoto

[MarcDeSoto]

I'm pretty clear on how to route the brake line from the MC to the rear axle, but the front brakes have me stumped.  At least from the MC to the brake light switch.  The shop manuals and parts books aren't very clear.  The Parts book shows the front line going over the MC, but that seems odd because the pedals and everything are in the way.  Does anyone have any pics or a good description of how to route the front brake line?  Thanks, Marc.

[harmony]

On my 48 Chrysler the forward brake line makes a U turn off the back of the MC and follows the frame, basically resting on it all the way to where the brake light switch is.

[junkers72]

Hello MarcDeSoto, tomorrow I will get some pics of my DeSoto brake lines for you .  Car is all together so I will do my best.  

[James_Douglas]

These photos should give you an idea of what my 1947 Desoto looks like...

[Bryan]

Here's a 48 Dodge...2nd pic on top of frame left side. 

[Happy 46R]

Hi Marc, Here are a couple of pics from a 46 Dodge. As indicated by the others the line from the MC to brake light switch and splitter starts with a u-turn and then runs tight along the frame. For my car there is enough clearance between the pedals and frame for the brake line and it clips into place in two spots.  Hope all the information helps. Dave

[MarcDeSoto]

Thanks Bryan and Happy!  Does it matter which connection on the MC you connect to?  I think I put my lines opposite to Bryan's.  Bryan, is the brake connected to a clip on the cross over front of the frame.  I see the fuel line is, but I'm not sure about the brake line?  

[MarcDeSoto]

Here is what I did today.  I included a pic of the right front brake drum and one show some dirt or grease that got on the shoes.  Should I discard these shoes because of the soil and order new ones?  

 

 

[MarcDeSoto]

Here are some pics.  The line for the rear axle was too long, so I had to loop it down low.  I'm thinking of redoing it and cutting it off.  I bought a new line flaring tool.  I show the right front brake and the right front brake shoe.  Should I toss them and buy new ones?  Thanks, Marc.

 

 

Edited February 8, 2022 by MarcDeSoto

[Bryan]

On the brake and fuel line on front they are sharing a clip between them on the right (of the pic), think also on the left.  Clean the brake show with brake cleaner and it should be okay.  Yeah, I wouldn't leave the loops hanging below the axle, line needs to be on top of the axle or behind it where it's protected.

Edited February 8, 2022 by Bryan

[James_Douglas]

One thing I will do the next time the dog house is off the front end is to make a modification on the brake light switch. It is a bitch to get at after the car is back together. On long road trips if the switch dies and you need to change it in a hurry, and I always carry a spare, it is not fun.

 

I will add a pipe that comes up onto the drivers side inner fender someplace easy to get to. Then stick the switch on the end of the pipe. Re-route the wires.

 

In this way you can change the thing quick and easy. Since it is a hydraulic system it does not matter.

 

I even thought about using a tee on the end and screwing two switches on the end. One live and one spare. Then if one died, just swap the wires and worry about replacing the dead one at one convenience.

 

James

[Sam Buchanan]

I like James's idea for the upgrade. However, if the switch on my P15 ever gives problems, or if I get bored and need a little project, I will remove it and replace it with a mechanical switch at the brake pedal (like modern cars). That will prevent a switch failure from potentially becoming a fluid leak that could lead to brake failure. It is also adjustable so you can determine how much pedal travel is desired to activate the lights. Mechanical switches are available at parts store in a variety of configurations.

Edited February 8, 2022 by Sam Buchanan

[harmony]

1 hour ago, James_Douglas said:

One thing I will do the next time the dog house is off the front end is to make a modification on the brake light switch. It is a bitch to get at after the car is back together. On long road trips if the switch dies and you need to change it in a hurry, and I always carry a spare, it is not fun.

 

I will add a pipe that comes up onto the drivers side inner fender someplace easy to get to. Then stick the switch on the end of the pipe. Re-route the wires.

 

In this way you can change the thing quick and easy. Since it is a hydraulic system it does not matter.

 

I even thought about using a tee on the end and screwing two switches on the end. One live and one spare. Then if one died, just swap the wires and worry about replacing the dead one at one convenience.

 

James

I agree.  In an earlier thread, I showed a picture of where I remounted the junction/brake light switch on to the front inner fender forward of the radiator.  

[harmony]

8 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

Here is what I did today.  I included a pic of the right front brake drum and one show some dirt or grease that got on the shoes.  Should I discard these shoes because of the soil and order new ones?  

 

 

Looking good, but I would make one suggestion if you don't mind.  I would make one continuous line from the MC to that brake light switch.  If you should ever get a leak at that coupler, I don't know how you'd ever access it to tighten the connection.  When I replaced all my brake lines a couple weeks ago, I had 2 connections that just would not stop leaking, ever so slightly.  One of the leaks took over night to show up.  Yes I used the method of seating the flare on the brake line 4 to fives times.  Loosening and tightening a little tighter each time.  Finally I used Permatex 54540.  Problem solved. 

But with that coupler hidden, I think you would have no choice but to remove the entire brake line if it started to leaked

[MarcDeSoto]

I guess I should forget this pre-cut kit and just buy a 25' spool of brake line so I can put it together without using any couplers.  I did buy a flaring tool kit at HF for $80.  

[61spit]

Are you sure you have the right pieces of the pre-cut kit in the right places? Maybe put the Tee block with the brake light switch where you have the coupling. Then the line from the master cylinder comes into that Tee and two lines go out - one to the left front wheel rubber line and one wraps around the front of the frame to the right front wheel rubber line. The lines at the rear wheels shouldn't hang down below the axle housing the way you have them now. The left rear off of the tee where the rubber flex line connects is pretty short to go to that wheel and the right one should go up around the top of the differential  with a clip holding it in place.  I will see if I can find some photos of how I made new ones from my 53 Plymouth. Looks like it should be pretty similar.

 

Found some photos. Hope they help.

Edited February 8, 2022 by 61spit

[MarcDeSoto]

Great pics there!  Thanks it is very helpful!  

[61spit]

Glad they are helpful. Hope you get things sorted out. If push comes to shove you can always cut the lines you have to a good working length and re-flare the end. Don't forget to slip the fitting on the line before you flare it.

[MarcDeSoto]

I tried to flare, but I'm no  good at it.  Maybe you have to buy  a much more expensive flaring tool to get good flares.  Mine just didn't look passable.  So I'm going to O'Reilly's and buying pre-flared lengths.  It's tough because they're either too long or too short!  

[RobertKB]

4 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

I tried to flare, but I'm no  good at it.  Maybe you have to buy  a much more expensive flaring tool to get good flares.  Mine just didn't look passable.  So I'm going to O'Reilly's and buying pre-flared lengths.  It's tough because they're either too long or too short!  

There are some great videos on You Tube that show how to make double flares. All of them say if you’re a novice at flaring, practice lots before making flares for use. I had never made brake lines before but have now replaced all steel lines on my ‘48 Dodge, new lines on my ‘51 Dodge restoration, and replaced half the lines on my ‘53 Plymouth. No leaks when installed and none later. 
 

I encourage you to keep trying as you can do it. The videos really help. My flare kit cost about the same as yours. Good luck!

[MarcDeSoto]

I say if you want to try your hand at flaring, go to O'Reilly's.  You can rent a flare kit and a tube bender for free for 48 hours.  I think I would need something like the Eastwood Flare kit to do a good flare, but you'll pay close to $300.  You can see it in action on Youtube.  

 

 

[MarcDeSoto]

I got the all brake lines and fuels in using store bought pre-flared tubing.  It was not easy, but I got it done with the help of my handy man.  Now I'm onto the daunting task of putting my shifter rod parts back on.  I called Bernbaum and he said he would send another bushing with softer rubber to replace my hard rubber one!  

[Sniper]

This is where cupronickel lines shine, they flare easier.  Steel ones can be tricky for a new user to flare and stainless is worse.

[MarcDeSoto]

Now I'm trying to adjust the brake shoes and I really don't know how anymore.  I have both the AAMCO and the Miller-19 brake tool kits.  I assume you have to first determine the diameter of the brake drums before you adjust the shoes.  The Miller tool to so complex I don't know where to begin with it.  Maybe there are instructions somewhere on the Net.  Also how do I know if I have the right brake shoes on the rear axle.  I think the rear shoes are different than the other six.  

Edited February 11, 2022 by MarcDeSoto

[MarcDeSoto]

I found this guide to the Miller tool from Rich Hartung.