Getting my 230 to run after starting

[Salty51]

Hello everyone my name is Brian and I have a 1951 B3D 1 ton. The motor has been converted to 12V and I replaced my transmission with a Chevy 350 automatic with a Wilcap adapter plate that allows for a mini starter. I also Upgraded to a Langdons stove bolt mini HEI dizzy with a brand new square coil and I have a universal B style  N228 carburetor. Ive been trying to get the engine to fire and run but no luck. I can Get the engine to turn over but it immediately stalls out. Ive checked the following items to narrow down my issue. 
 

fuel pump: it works and pumps fuel into the carb when turning the engine over

carburetor: shoots fuel into manifold when throttle is pulled 

 

battery: brand new 850 CCA 12 volt battery 

 

spark plugs: attached a tester to each plug and I got A positive light for each one

 

im stumped and don’t know where to go from here. The engine just won’t go into an idle. I think I’m close but I just don’t know where to go from here. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Brian

 

[Merle Coggins]

Have you tried a little throttle, or adjusting up the idle screw a few turns? Sometimes the idle circuit isn’t quite right and won’t allow the engine to idle properly, but a little throttle will get it running on the main jet. 

Or, a faulty ignition switch will supply ignition voltage when in crank position, but will drop it when you release to the run position. 

Edited November 21, 2021 by Merle Coggins

[lostviking]

I don't know anything about the specific parts you have tossed together, but some times there is a separate wire for power during run as opposed to the start. It will start, but as soon as you go to the run circuit, you lose power.

Edited November 28, 2021 by lostviking
can't spell or type

[Tooljunkie]

Could be the wiring under distributor cap. Engine starts, vacuum builds to rotate breaker plate  and circuit opens or shorts to ground. 

[wallytoo]

1 hour ago, lostviking said:

I don't know anything about the specific parts you have tossed together, but some times there is a sperate wire for power during run as opposed to the start. It will start, but as soon as you go to the run circuit, you lose power.

usually only relevant with a key switch that has "start" and "run" positions.  the oem key switch would only have the "run" position, as the starter was activated via the foot pedal.  however, if a new key switch was installed to utilize a key start feature, that would be a good place to look.

[greg g]

Make a jumper wire, 6 feet or more of 12 gauge wire with an alligator clip on each end.  Insulated clips are good but bare ones will work with care not to accidently ground them.

 

 Attach one end to the coil terminal that receives power in your case the positive terminal. Attach the other end to the positive battery post.  Now try it.  If it starts and runs, you are near finished.  To stop the engine, disconnect the jumper the battery.  This tells you everything is working except the connection from the ign switch to the coil.  If your jumper is long enough, connect the end that was attached to the battery and Attach it to a switch terminal that is hot with switch on.  If it starts and runs and shuts off with the key, that says your ignition switch is OK. So a new wire from that terminal on the ign switch to the Coil positive terminal should be the fix.

Edited November 21, 2021 by greg g

[47Jim]

Brian, I know you're in this thread to deal with your issue and I can't be any more help than was already given, I am however curious about the 350 trans you have mounted, how it was done, difficulty, how the floor pan was changed, any details you can give about the process and results.

  Just when you get the time please, I'd be interested in knowing much more about that, pictures, reviews, anything...thanks Jim

[kencombs]

I don't know how your new electronic ignition is wired or if it was installed before or after the 12v conversion.  But, here is a possibility:  If it was 12v with points it probably has a resistor and a resistor bypass connected somehow.  If that wasn't changed correctly when the new system was installed it is possible for it to get power only when the key is in start.   Do you have a wiring diagram available? maybe the one that came with the distributor or an 'as build' hand drawing?

 

edit:  also check carefully for any large vacuum leaks.  Wiper motor hookup, missing plug in manifold,  etc.

 

I'm interested in your mini-starter install.  When you get your issues resolved, some pics and info would be appreciated.

Edited November 22, 2021 by kencombs

[Salty51]

Thank you everyone for your replies I’m at work for the next few days and I will Get going on all of your recommendations and send out some pics too. 

[Salty51]

Well I feel like an idiot ? it turns out there needs to be a wire from the "IGN" post on the back of your ignition switch to the coil. I only had the "START" wire connected to the solenoid. She runs like a cha,p now! Thank you everyone for your comments and replies.

[Dodgeed]

48 minutes ago, Salty51 said:

Well I feel like an idiot ? it turns out there needs to be a wire from the "IGN" post on the back of your ignition switch to the coil. I only had the "START" wire connected to the solenoid. She runs like a cha,p now! Thank you everyone for your comments and replies.

I assume you mean "champ", not cha,p; ?? I'm glad you found the problem, and then thought enough to give us the feedback. Many times the original poster doesn't do that, and we never know what happened. Thanks for doing that!

[lostviking]

1 hour ago, Salty51 said:

Well I feel like an idiot ? it turns out there needs to be a wire from the "IGN" post on the back of your ignition switch to the coil. I only had the "START" wire connected to the solenoid. She runs like a cha,p now! Thank you everyone for your comments and replies.

Cool beans. I'm glad you got her running. That's what it sounded like when you were able to start it. People do forget that there are both a start and a run position on ignition switches. The coil needs to get powered from both.

 

Have some fun now.

[greg g]

Glad y o u got it sorted out.  Have fun.

[wallytoo]

4 hours ago, Salty51 said:

Well I feel like an idiot ? it turns out there needs to be a wire from the "IGN" post on the back of your ignition switch to the coil. I only had the "START" wire connected to the solenoid. She runs like a cha,p now! Thank you everyone for your comments and replies.

 

so an aftermarket ignition switch, and no more "foot pedal" starter engagement?

[Salty51]

“Champ” for sure…yes she’s key start and no more stomp starter although O do love that option it was deleted when I switched To an automatic transmission 

[wallytoo]

On 11/28/2021 at 1:41 PM, lostviking said:

People do forget that there are both a start and a run position on ignition switches. 

 

the oem key switch does NOT have a start position, only a run position.  the OP finally clarified that the truck no longer has the oem switch.

[lostviking]

On 12/3/2021 at 3:28 AM, wallytoo said:

 

the oem key switch does NOT have a start position, only a run position.  the OP finally clarified that the truck no longer has the oem switch.

Oh, I know that. But the description of the truck and the problem made it pretty clear to me that the ignition switch had been changed.

[MBF]

Nice looking truck who or where did you get the 6 lug Budd drop Centers from?

[JBNeal]

On 11/23/2021 at 6:01 PM, Salty51 said:

Thank you everyone for your replies I’m at work for the next few days and I will Get going on all of your recommendations and send out some pics too. 

Nice wheels...are they homemade or off the shelf anywhere?

Asking for a friend 

[chstrumpetdude]

I am also curious about OP's wheels and what rear end he is using since there is no longer a parking brake.