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Everything posted by lostviking

  1. Hmm. Well I guess that makes me feel a bit better. I was still unsure about going with the 3.55 instead of 3.73. I didn't want the gearing to get too high and make first gear a clutch slide. As long as I can comfortably do 65 I'm good.
  2. I'm just starting a thread. Won't have the rear for a bit, I just ordered it. Mopar 8 1/4 with 3.55 gears from a Jeep Cherokee. I bought it from B&R auto wrecking and it was less than $500 delivered to my house. Once it's here I can assess what needs to be done. I'm going to order the perches and I can located and tack them at least. I have a 140A welder, but I think I'll ask a friend to weld them in for me and ensure I get a good weld. I'll keep a log of what I needed to do once I get the axle assembly here. I'm planning on putting new springs in, but I
  3. After looking at all the options, I just pulled the trigger on a Mopar 8-1/4 inch with 3.55 gears. It was less than $500 shipped to my house from B&R auto wrecking. It's more than I need strength wise and seems to be a good fit for our trucks. Thanks to all of you who blazed the trail and posted your information in the various threads. Tim
  4. Pinion angle changes that are fairly small can be set using wedges. I've seen that done on extreme 4x4 builds. I'll need to work on that though as I'm moving the mount from under to over, so it won't be the same as now. That said, being more inline with the trans exit, the angle would be less. I'm going to send him the width of the locating stud for the springs. I haven't worked out all the details or spoken to him. He might only off the perches in the stock location. The 8-1/4 uses c-clips to retain the axles. Not my first choice. But more importantly I've been inside
  5. First off, what springs did you use? Did you change transmissions also? Did you put the tubes over or under the springs? TIA. After looking at the cost of getting either an 8.25 Mopar or an 8.8 Ford, and then rebuilding them...it seems like a better idea to order an 8-3/4 from a guy selling them on the Mopar group on fb. Even with shipping it seems like I'd get the whole thing done for about the same cost and I don't have to do it. Not that I mind, but that does factor into the cost. If I go that route I'll have him weld the perches to the correct width for
  6. So, many have done this to get a modern rear and brakes under their trucks. Mine is a 46 WD15. Right now it sits way up in the rear, and for a 3/4 ton I can understand that. I'm never going to load it like that again. I wanted to ask what leaf springs people are using when they do the swap. Mine are 75 years old, they need to be replaced anyway. I don't want to just buy another set of stock ones, then take out leafs to get them down. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  7. Not really. I don't like the idea of cutting part of one frame off and welding it to mine after doing the same. The Fatman IFS can be undone, since there are no changes to the frame other than some welds and fish plates. Chopping off the front of my frame is not. I know some like this approach. I see it as something that was done when there were no alternatives. I do like all Mopar, and the brakes on the Fatman are not, but that's not much of a problem for me.
  8. After a lot of thought, I have decided to sell off my two motors (one running in the truck, the other in pieces) and transmissions (one in the truck, the other a rebuilt I got with the truck). When I do the front end, which I will be doing, I'll set it up for a sb Mopar. I also plan on a Cherokee 8.25 rear end. Depending on tire diameter, either 3.55 or 3.73. The later seems to be a lot more common. Thanks for all comments.
  9. Wow, those are batshit crazy expensive. I'm looking on ebay for some Stromberg BXOV-2 carbs. I got that from another forum as a recommendation. Same website suggested that two stock carbs might be too rich, but then what's the diff also. Rejet. If I can get two matched Strombergs I'll think about it, otherwise I'll be looking for another stock one I guess.
  10. I frankly don't know anything about the various 1 barrel carbs. I'd like to use the Offy dual 1 barrel intake on my 230 (after the rebuild), but I don't know what carbs to use. Should I find another one like the single that is on the motor now? Is there a better choice? TIA.
  11. No worries, this is a social website. Thanks for the replies. I don't see any problem with a sb Mopar either. I've read about plenty of them being done. I know there is room, without cutting the firewall. I don't really need to worry about the steering box either as the Fatman front end is rack and pinion.
  12. I'm thinking hard about putting a Fatman IFS and a Cherokee rear end in my truck (1946 WD15). I want to be able to drive it out of town, not just on side streets. I'm also thinking of a new transmission, either a T5 or A833 OD. The question is do I just go for it and change the motor too, or rebuild the original block (as a 230, since I have the crank and rods)? I like the flathead motor, it's smooth and strong with a few mods at least. But a much newer design would probably be the last motor this truck ever sees for me at least. It's not like I'd be holding onto it still being ori
  13. Its your truck, but I think you are glossing over the part that THEY will issue you the metal tab the stickers must be affixed to. You home made one is not legal, and it never will be. The law specifically states they will issue the metal tab, the part you cut out of context refers to where THAT tab is to be mounted. Your truck. I'm sure it will fly OUT OF CA, until someone wants to be a d_ck to you.
  14. There are specific rules. Here it is from the horses mouth. Pretty simple, and entirely flexible. You must use the supplied tag well. It must be attached as instructed. This wasn't reportedly said by someone who doesn't make the rules anyway. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/handbook/vehicle-industry-registration-procedures-manual-2/special-plates/year-of-manufacture-yom-license-plates/
  15. Interesting build and dyno on a Jeep 4.0 stroked using a Jeep 4.2 crank.
  16. Actually, that's not legal. CA provides a small "tab" that has to be attached to the plate. That's the only legal way. I don't know if you'd get away with it out of state or not, but in CA you would not.
  17. Looking online, I found an article by the company...that did this on a 47 1/2 Ton. They did move the radiator forward of the stock mount, but none of it looked that hard (for someone who can weld, unlike me). You could contact them. I read it a few weeks ago, so I don't have the link right now, but Google is your friend.
  18. The heater is done, has been, and is ready to install. I need to fabricate the above mount adapter first. The only thing I'm still doing is restoring the red paint in the Mopar Deluxe badge and the defroster pull handle. I painted it with a red paint pen. After I do a couple coats I'll buff the non-paint areas with a scotch brite pad. I already did this with the badge, and it came out OK. I over buffed a couple spots, probably because I only put one coat of paint. This time I'll fill 'er up, then buff. Looked pretty good the first time, so I think it will come out nice.
  19. I spent a little time today working on a drawing for the heater adapter. Something that became obvious to me, is that the adapter Young Ed was kind enough to send me pictures of, is for a different model than the model 31 I have. The tubes for the water are closer together than for the plate he photographed. I set the hole spacing at 4-5/8, which is what I can measure for my Model 31 heater. I did not change the rest of the dimensions, so only time will tell if that all still works. I'm going to fabricate one from my drawing. I'm a mechanical designer though, not a drafter. Sure, I
  20. I had zero problem, after I listened to the instructions and let the paint dry.
  21. If it's humid, the paint will take at least a week to be ready for another coat. If you do anything that breaks the surface, like sanding...another week. I ended up starting over several times because I had reactions. Your seems pretty small if that's the only place. Just give it a week (or two) and wet sand it. Then give it another week and do some touch up, or do the clear. Good luck. Patients is the key. I learned that the hard way.
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