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Everything posted by lostviking

  1. Sorry for not answering. By the time I got home I forgot about your question. I see you got a good answer already. Tim
  2. I did some searching because I didn't know if the gauge was measuring voltage or current. I found an excellent thread with a great explanation of how the gas gauge works. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/100645/6-12-volt-fuel-guage-sender-theory.html
  3. Back out today to wet sand everything. This time around I also used a tiny amount of glazing putty on some paint chips in the original paint. The entire fender is sanded, so I covered it completely in primer. There are two small spots I think still need a touch, but it's almost ready to sit and wait for the weather to break. Not only is it humid, but we are having a major heat wave for the next week. Even just sitting and wet sanding left me soaked. Drank lots of water. Hopefully be painting soon. That running board is never going to be perfect, and I haven't done anything since I flattened it back out. I've got a fend and the lower door and cab to get color on. It will have to be off for that anyway, so I'll look at ways to get it closer to looking nice again. Enjoy your weekend everyone.
  4. Me thinks she would be wrong. The gas gauge cares. Tim
  5. I'll try to remember to check when I get home. I have one of them off right now. Tim
  6. It's been almost a month of hot muggy weather. Humidity in the mid to upper 80%. So I've been working on making the fender as smooth as my skills can get. There is no heavy layers of bondo anywhere. The thickest is maybe .060, because I am a nit picker. Here is how it looked today. I think it's almost ready to spray. Of course right after I hit it with primer, I saw a small area that could use some glazing putty. Nit picker extreme
  7. If patients completely fails, because it takes time to free some bolts, make sure you center punch it and use a Kobalt drill. A smallish one. You just want a hole through it, not to drill it completely out. That should relax the "fit" a little and help you get it moving.
  8. OK, I got bored and bypassed a lot of this. So, if I'm repeating I am sorry The slits are there to allow a small amount of coolant to constantly circulate through the heater core. This is to prevent corrosion of the core. Tim
  9. They are probably talking about using a punch to deform the metal around the pin, to help grab it. I would drill a hole and use a spring (roll) pin to retain mine.
  10. Yes, that's the one where I swapped the rear. Nothing is ever completely done...so there were other posts, as well as completely other things. I can't keep my hands from doing "things" sometimes.
  11. Not too hard at all. There are several threads, including mine on my 46 showing the process.
  12. The edge of the wheel opening still has a bend in it. I think I know how to support the fender to pull that out. Next time around though. And one overall of the progress. I guess it's pretty good considering where I started.
  13. It's been humid in San Diego for some time now. This is the time of year that humidity is 85% or higher most of the time. Any meaningful painting is out of the question. That said, I got a bit more work done today. Just sanding and primer to show me the rough spots. I used my RO sander with some 80 and 320 to both blend the edges of old paint and rough up the surface of it...plus sand on the primer I've already got down. I did miss a couple spots, but it's not the final primer anyway. Here I missed the edge, so I'll do that part by hand. Here I didn't even try to get the crack in the paint between the ridges. I'll get that next go around also. Here is where a lot of damage was. I had to weld the whole bottom lip (which you can't see) all the way around to the left. It got ripped loose. I will need to lay on a micro layer to filler to smooth this and block sand it.
  14. Sorry for the delay. No, there isn't supposed to be one either. I goes from the regulator through the ameter to everything else...via the light switch. Lights do not go through the ign switch, so you should see draw with just the lights on. The current comes from Batt (-) through the ameter to the light switch (makes a stop at the starter first), N0 10 Red wire, then No 12 Brown wire to the light switch.
  15. Mine shows a draw when I turn on the lights, 1946.
  16. Completely agree in this case. I am just a creature of habit, and that's how I've always installed washers...and why I make that choice.
  17. Not to just be contrary, but I always put the rounded side towards the head of the bolt. The bolt has less surface to be making contact. The flat thing you are putting the washer against has the larger area. That is just my thinking, I've not read anything specific either way.
  18. Unless it's a show truck, I would seriously consider going to the PowerWagon website and getting the PCV upgrade the military put in.
  19. Hi everyone, haven't said anything in a month and haven't really done much either. I've got all of the welding on the front fender done, including the inside where is attaches to running board. It's probably ready for bondo, but I might hit it a bit more with the hammers. What I've been doing is working on a new front fender for my 1979 FLH. I wanted to practice painting something small, that is easy to redo when I mess something up. So far I've got three contrasting layers of primer on it, red oxide on the bottom. I like to put red oxide there because you can see it easily when you are wet sanding and know to stop. I just finished wet sanding it, but there were a few spots on the fender mounts where the metal was damaged in manufacturing. To fix that I got out my Dremel and smallest sanding drums. After I got it flat, or more correctly a bit lower than flat, I hit it again with some heavy coats of primer. The rivets that hold the mounts to the fender are hard to sand around, and you usually hit metal on them. I sprayed that area again also. Most of the fender is the top color of primer, but baby butt smooth. Maybe 1/3 shows the second color, and only edges and the rivet show any red oxide. It's close to time for color. That is what it was all about also. I've had the fender maybe 10 years. Once I can paint the fender without errors, I'll feel like going for the truck.
  20. It appears that the 3/8-27 is used on gas burner valves. Here is a link that leads me to believe that: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/all-points-26-2937-3-8-27-x-3-8-cct-female-coupling/AP262937.html
  21. In the 46 trucks, there is a 30A fuse on the rear of the light switch. Everything is pretty much fed through leads coming from this switch, so it protects (the fuse) everything. BUT, when it goes, so does everything. If you are not building a points show truck, I would add a fuse box, and run every lead coming from where ever the central point of feed for your truck, in my case the light switch, through an appropriate sized fuse for that circuit. So, if you lose anything but the ignition, you can still get home, or to somewhere safe. LV
  22. If you look at the picture of my fender patch, you can see a small area that still needed metal. Looking at the other fender, there is a curved gap up there too, it's not fully filled. I cut a sliver of metal today and welded it in. I'm getting better at controlling my trigger finger so I didn't burn through. I seem to be able to tap the trigger long enough to get a weld, and short enough to get the single spot I need. I then used a hammer and dolly on it, plus some Dremel sanding roll to get it looking pretty good. I used a carbide round tool in the Dremel to for the "bend relief" cut at the corner. I think it will pass. I also did some hammer and dolly work on the last of the raised area's where it had bent. A pro with a planishing hammer would do a better job. I don't have one, and well... It won't take but a thin coat of Bondo to get it ready for paint. Next step, remove the paint from most of it and blend it 4-6 inches. Then I put the bondo on and if it isn't being bent into shape right now....I can paint it. I have a front fender for my FLH that needed to be painted, so I cleaned and primered it yesterday. I'll use my paint gun to do it first. If I blow it, that's easy to redo. Once I can do a good job on it, the truck fenders get theirs. Have a great Sunday everyone.
  23. May 12th the wife and I left for a bit over two weeks of vacation. Got home feeling a bit under the weather, but we are both fine now. Haven't done anything to the truck since my last post, but it's time for me to pull the fender back off the truck and finish welding the inside of the patch I put on it. There is also a small piece I still need to form and weld in. Before I do that, and yes my mind jumps around...I will do the final beating on the damaged spots to get them to where a thin bondo coat is all I need. That's the plan for now. Then I have to decide if I can really get the running board in good enough shape or not. My buddy Joel thinks I'm nit picking the quality of the work, but that's just me. Hope everyone is enjoying their trucks this first weekend of summer.
  24. This is my welder...140A/120VAC. I don't have a gas bottle, so I'm flux core welding. The extension cord is a 20A cord and only 10Ft long.
  25. Crawled a little closer to the finish line today. I needed a piece of metal to patch the area towards the lower rear, where it meets the running board. I had an old fender from my FLH...hehe. Cut and shaped it, put it into place and started stitching it. Still having a bit of trouble not making holes, but I filled them. I still need to put a small filler at the top, but it came out OK I guess.
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