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lostviking

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Everything posted by lostviking

  1. Thanks for trying to help, and thank you for dropping it. I was probably a bit harsh, but I was also very specific that I would not alter the truck from it's 100% original appearance. Hiding a modern filter inside of the original canister does that, but anything external to the canister is not. Near is not exact. Thanks for your understanding.
  2. Thanks for that picture. Over time, I forgot which part at the top was white.
  3. Not done yet...You might have noticed I'm a pick nitter, so I will touch up the edges of the 8. The 3 is probably fine. I don't want it to look too good, they didn't originally. I used a dense foam block to sand, 2000 grit. But I pushed too hard on the 8 and it deformed over the edge. that why the bottom right looks like that. I started on the other end and was rushing a bit by the last character. The CAL at the top and 45 on the other end are the only other parts that still need white. Then clear over it all to give it some protection.
  4. Did the wet sanding tonight. It works like a charm. You need to make sure you have several clear coats, I did the five that were recommended. I still need to use a fine brush to paint in the small recessed letters on the top of a California 1945 plate with some more white. After that cures, I'll spray several clear coats over everything. I think it's going to come out pretty good after all.
  5. I don't know how much plainer I can put this. Thank you, but I'm not interested in near original. Please stop.
  6. Haven't talked about this in a while, so here's the update. I contacted Rustoleum and asked them about the problems I was having. Simply put, it doesn't matter how long it has been since you sprayed, if you break the surface (wet sand), then you need to wait another 48 hours before spraying again. I started basically from bare metal again. I used spot putty all over the plate to fill in the pits. Then I wet sanded, sprayed high build primer, wet sanded...et cet until I was OK with the finish. I waited the 48 hours between any time I broke the surface and the next painting. I'm on my fifth layer of clear over the white. I sprayed several coats of white today, and all five layers of clear, waiting 15 mins between layers. Now I'm going to let it sit 48 hours before I continue. That will be several coats of black, at 15 min intervals. After that I'll carefully wet sand through the black over the letters. If all goes well, I'll use a small brush to get the lettering at the top of the plate, which is recessed. Finally, following the above rules...I'll give the plate a nice couple coats of clear to give it a protective gloss finish. Wish me luck.
  7. Please read the above post. I would never do that to my 100% original truck.
  8. Thank you, but what I aim to do is add one without detracting for the original appearance. I want it hidden from view, and original looking.
  9. Spent some time this morning doing the remaining five cylinders. Pretty easy with the tool. Measured the bores at the top, because I do not have a bore mic, and saw similar results. All of the bores seem to be close enough to maybe get by with a .010 overbore. Won't be sure until I take it to a machine shop to be reconditioned. When I do I'll have them do everything needed. Tank it, inspect for cracks, replace the valve seats/guides as wear dictates. Install new cam bearings and freeze plugs. At that point it will have to sit until I'm ready to pull the other engine. I need the crank and rods. Nothing wrong with the ones I have, but they are 218 and I want to put her back together as a 230. While I'm at it I'll have the head shaved to get up to the higher compression of later engines. Nothing fancy. If I find information (haven't looked yet) on any port work I might do a bit of shaping. I can't imagine that would be much more than a radius job. Probably not worth the effort. This is going to be a single carb engine, but I think I'll put headers on it just because. That and a PVC upgrade. One thing I'm still toying with. I have several oil filter bodies. I'm thinking about reworking one to hold a modern oil filter. I don't think it would be too difficult, but I haven't done any CAD work yet to see how it would fit. More to follow.
  10. Had some more fun with the trucks parts today. For this thread the heater core. While I know this proves nothing, not under pressure, haven't done anything to remove build up inside...I filled it full of water...and there were no leaks. I guess I can say that it's not complete trash. It looked pretty good and next I'll look at dissolving any build up inside and try that leak test again. I could put a hose on it with a bike inner tube fitting and pump on it a bit. That would be the proof. Pretty good initial test though.
  11. Take a look at Digikey.com. They are an electronics supplier we use at work. Also Mouser.com. They have hundreds of switches that would work. You just need to know what size bulbs you intend to use. You need to know how much amperage you will be running to size the switch properly.
  12. Soaked the fan with the broken off setscrew in PB Blaster. I got out my Cobalt drills and starting with the smallest, drilled as near down the center of the cut off shaft as possible. I stepped up the drills until I got close to the edge, then tapped the hole I'd drilled. Next I got my flat punch and a small hammer, and went to work on the setscrew. I finally got it moving. Combination of the PB Blaster and maybe relieving some pressure on the threads (?). That and some heat cycles....nothing more than the hot San Diego sun was used. I ran a bolt into the threads I made, and as it bottomed out the shaft began to move. It was rusted up a bit, but working on it fairly gently I got it out. I used another .25 drill bit to clean up the bore of the fan, and it's a pretty snug fit on the new motor shaft. I might take them both to work tomorrow and run a reamer through the bore. I don't want to have to press fit the fan. Other than that, I still have LOTS of work left. I need to see if the core is salvageable, it does look pretty nice, but has a couple areas I might have to solder up. Been there before. Before I do anything I want to soak it and dissolve anything that has built up inside. Then I'll see about needed repairs. Last is to clean up the sheet metal and repaint. It's pretty good considering. Nothing is in a condition that I shouldn't be able to use it. There is a band of metal that wraps around the two halves of the box and sort of holds it all together. It was broken, something that was in the ad. I am not sure if the metal can be welded up or not. I'll take it to an expert I know. He's done some real jewelry for me at work on my own designs. If anyone can put humpty dumpty back together he can More to follow.
  13. I like the idea of putting the battery in a more accessible location. My truck has a 6V Optima battery, so it's a lot smaller physically than a traditional battery. Those are sealed also. They are expensive, but I never need to worry about the battery. Another choice is a lithium battery like this one...https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Battery-LFX18A2-BS06-Lightweight-Powerful/dp/B007B6UNV2/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=6v+lithium+battery&qid=1592093866&s=automotive&sr=1-12
  14. OK, finally got the tool. The USPS failed badly, but it eventually got here. Two days late on a priority mail postage...they kept saying they didn't have access to deliver...to my house, no fence. It was in my mailbox when they finally delivered. Anyway, got a few minutes today to work on getting the ridge out of at least one cylinder. Honey do will be curtailing any further efforts today. After I got the slug out, which was fun. The tool needed to be taken apart, cleaned and reassembled correctly. Just follow the directions. Anyway, I remeasured the bore using my digital caliper. Yes, not the best tool, but I'm only asking for a close measurement right now. What I'm getting is stock (3.25) + .003 to .008 in the area at the top I ran the ridge reamer over. I don't have the best location for doing this, but I just wanted to see what I had done. The larger reading, +.008 was when I had to measure and then pull the caliper because I couldn't see the face while it was in the bore. I could have moved the engine stand, but I was all cleaned up when I thought of this, and figured I was close enough. I measured at several points around the bore. Mostly I saw +.005. Remember me saying I thought the 64K on the OD was the actual mileage? Well...seems pretty likely based on the minimal wear I've found on everything in this engine. Good day. Everyone enjoy your weekend, and get greasy.
  15. got my new 6V motor today from NAPA. It will work just fine I think. Only slightly different in size from the original, but I might need to trim the metal a bit in the rear (on the core bracket) because the wires come out there and hit. Just a small half moon cut, but when I put some vibration isolators in the mount, that might move it back enough. I'll have to see.
  16. Ridge reamer gets here tomorrow. Pistons coming out...but I better get some WD40. I think the wife would kill me if I used PB Blaster inside again. Picked up a nice on off ebay for $35, it's the one Snap-On sells for about $100. If the cutter needs attention, I'll just take it to work and put a new edge on it.
  17. I had to saw the output shaft on my motor to get the fan off. Someone previously broke the set screw off, rather than let something penetrate and free it up. Seems to be a repeating story on this truck. Some people have no patients. I ordered a replacement from NAPA. It is not an exact replacement, but is darn near a perfect one. I could have tried pick it up at the store, but I paid the extra $12-13 to have it shipped to my house. About $50. It is slightly shorter, and slightly fatter than the stock one. If I could have gotten the fan off without sawing the shaft, I might have been able to rebuild it. It looked like the brushes and commutator simply needed to be cleaned up. That and a general cleaning and regrease. I might just put it back together for the fun of it. I could still repair the shaft with an extension if I drilled and tapped the end of it and made an extension. But that's too much work when you are not forced to do it.
  18. OK, this can get things started. This is the heater core from a Mopar Deluxe Model 31. These go though part of the housing, which is soaking in PB Blaster right now, and that is the spacing of the mounting holes on the firewall. If this is the same spacing as your firewall holes, then the Model 31 would fit. At least there. Under the dash is another matter. I'll get pictures of all the sheet metal later. I plan on using electrolysis to derust everything before I paint it all again. Very nice example done on Youtube showing that this is very easy to do, if done safely. Meaning out doors! You can't hurt the metal, unlike using sand or even glass bead blasting. Yes, I know glass bead is pretty safe, but if there is a will there is a way. The electrolysis method is completely safe to steal. Once the rust is gone, it simply stops doing anything.
  19. I'll get a set of pictures taken, showing dimensions of everything...once I'm back to work on it. Right now it's raining a bit, so I am playing around with other things.
  20. I ended up buying a Deluxe Model 31 from a 1949 truck off ebay. I got it today and disassembled it. Sheet metal is pretty good, just a bit of surface rust to fix. Not sure about the blower or the core yet. I tried testing the motor, but I only have 12V...I didn't think it would hurt momentarily so I setup a test. When I tap the lead the motor jumps, but then stops. Keeping the voltage on does nothing, but I didn't let it stay on more than a second to keep from overheating something. I can tap, tap, tap and it moves each time. Don't these motors run from straight 6V DC? If I have to replace the motor, does anyone know how the fan is secured. It looks like it's pinned through the shaft. Thanks.
  21. Wow, been quite awhile...but I finally have some more progress to report. I got the engine, sans head which I previously removed...and some other small items, on the engine stand. I was then able to pull the oil pan, flip it over and go at the crank. Every thing came apart fairly easily, with one exception. The oil transfer line. Being an occasional idiot, I didn't put a wrench on the fitting in the block. The first one came apart so easily, I didn't even think about it. Bad idea. On the second one, the compression fitting was turning with some force...when I noticed it was the fitting in the block that was actually turning. I twisted the tubing. AAAAAAAA. I'll have to bend and flare a new one when it goes back together, or just use the one in my other motor. Which is more likely. Anyway on to good stuff. Inspecting the bearings, I remain convinced that this motor never had more than around 60K on it. There is almost zero wear on any bearing. I think the truck got parked and just sat too long. The previous owner would have been surprised if he had rebuilt this motor. But he didn't want to spend the $3K, so he bought a good running engine and swapped instead. That makes my desire for a numbers matching rebuild easier. I of course need to have the block inspected for cracks I can't see. I don't have the best vision anymore, and even if I did you all know that magnaflux testing is a must. I still need to get a ridge breaker to remove the pistons. That .005 or slightly larger ridge at the top of the cylinders is enough to grab the rings, and I don't want to take the chance of causing any damage trying to force them past it. I'll get the pistons out and then send the block to be refreshed. I won't bother with the crank or rods, those will end up in someone else's motor eventually. I fully intend to rape the 230 for it's crank and rods and use my block. That's it for today. Since it's my only truck, I'll be using the 46 to take the block to a machine shop. Have to avoid the freeway speeds, but I can get there and back on side streets.
  22. Those of us who own shovelhead Harleys, use the drips to tell us when the oil it too low. Just sayin.
  23. Mine is an older model, so this might be different on yours. On my 46 the tube is pushed into the block and it was leaking at that point. I pulled it out and "reformed" the end of the tube with a round punch right up the tube to make that part bigger in diameter. I then pushed it back into the block, had to gently tap it down around the edges. Doesn't leak a bit now. Does that one pull out also?
  24. That's the part, but I was too afraid of breaking one to examine it very carefully. Both my motors are back together now, waiting to be reinstalled. I'm going to pull the electric motors out the previous owner put in. The only electric ones I'd use are ones that were available as a option. Not sure if that was an option or not. See it mentioned in the parts book though.
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