Rear End Swap

[Jim Shepard]

We’ll, I’m committed now. Last month, and after several months of research, I bought a 1997 Ford Ranger 7.5 rear end with drum brakes and 3.73 gears. Next, I pulled the stock rear end out of my B2B and cut off the spring perches. I had previously removed the Ranger perches. The Ranger rear end is slightly narrower than the Dodge, but I can get back to the correct width with the wheels. Two motivating factors in this way were my decision to go with a T5 transmission, which I did earlier this year. With that swap I lost my park/emergency brake. Doing the swap also allowed me to improve my rear end gearing. The Ranger differential is 3.73, which should work better than the Dodge 4.10 with my T5 gear set.

 

Yesterday good buddy Charlie came over and we figured out the correct pinion angle and I’ll get the perches welded on within the next week. I’ll follow this up with some progress photos.

 

 

[lostviking]

Why would you go with such a small rear? The Ranger 8.8 is a great rear and easy to find and the Jeep 8.25 is almost the exact same width and also easy to find. I personally just finished installing the Jeep in my 46.

 

I'm really curious why you would use such a weak rear end?

[lostviking]

I hope my previous post wasn't taken as an insult. It certainly wasn't intended that way. I was just curious why you chose that particular rear.

 

Tim

[Young Ed]

23 minutes ago, lostviking said:

I hope my previous post wasn't taken as an insult. It certainly wasn't intended that way. I was just curious why you chose that particular rear.

 

Tim

I personally went with a jeep 8.25 in my 47 but that was mostly because I found one for $40! Still waiting to get it on the road and see if that was a deal..   either way the ranger that came with that 7.5 probably had more HP than a flathead and it will be just fine in his truck

 

[Jim Shepard]

The 7.5 is plenty ok for my slightly modified 230 flathead. “Easy to find” is geographically related. Couldn’t find the jeep rear end close by for a decent price. Also, I didn’t want disc brakes, which is all I could find. Granted, the 8.8 is a beefier option, but unnecessary in my application…

Edited October 25, 2021 by Jim Shepard

[John-T-53]

I don't know much about "Ferd" products and Ranger rears but was the 7.5 outfitted in trucks with both 4s and 6s?

The NWC T5 that you have in there is on the "weak" side too, but still plenty strong for the 230 and it was originally mated to a 4 or 6 too. 

[Jim Shepard]

The 7.5 axle was used on 4’s and 6’s (up to 3.0L) and all diesels.The 3.0L was rated at 148hp and 180 ft. lbs. of torque. Should be ok for my application.

[John-T-53]

As long as you don't stand on the gas pedal, keep it under 35, and pull over every 20 minutes to let it cool down you should be fine... 

[Los_Control]

I measured a 7.5 in a early Bronco II. Guessing the bronco and ranger share same platform. I do not remember the exact measurements .... seems like it was 2" narrower then my 1949 pilothouse.

We talked about it here in the forums, consensus was to use some 1" spacers to get the track width back out to where it should be.

I think it would be strong enough though for a flathead 6.

 

To be fair my measuring was not ideal. The Bronco and my pilothouse had tires & wheels and sitting on the ground.

I measured from center of tire to center of tire on both vehicles. We can see the flaws there with tire width and back spacing on wheels.

I was just looking for a general idea and the broken down bronco headed to the crusher was sitting right there.

 

[Jim Shepard]

Thought I’d update my progress. Found out the Ranger axle is not quite 1/2” smaller diameter out by the backing plates. The Dodge axle is 3” in diameter. So, the Dodge perch doesn’t fit flush on the Ranger axle and rocks back and forth. My solution was to weld  spacer on the Ranger axle so the perch sits flush. I used some 3” stock pipe/tubing I found at the local Metal Mart. I cut the tube in half length-wise and welded it the the portion of the axle that is too small. I think it’ll work just fine and, after I get it painted, it will look ok. I still need to finish welding the perches. I only tack-welded them to verify location. Take a look…

 

 

[lostviking]

Nice job Jim. I wasn't able to reuse the stock mounts going with the Jeep axle, which is 3 inch. The stock axle in my 3/4 ton has smaller tubes. I like the idea of being able to use the stock components. I still have to fabricate my shock mounts.

[Jim Shepard]

With this modification I am able to use the stock shock mounts. That was a deciding factor.

[Jim Shepard]

A few more photos from my Ranger axle swap…

 

[Jim Shepard]

[Jim Shepard]

The other thing I discovered was that I can use all the brake lines from the Dodge on the Ranger axle. At first I thought I’d have to use some type of adapter fitting because the Ranger lines are smaller. What I discovered is that the Ranger fittings that go into the backing plate (and then into the wheel cylinders) are the same size as the Dodge. So, I can use the hard lines, the distribution/breather block, and the flex line from the Dodge with no modifications or adapter. Sometimes things just fall in place…

[Jim Shepard]

Thought I'd update everyone on my rearend conversion. Got the new axle back on and the brakes are bled. Took it for a very short drive yesterday and everything seemed ok; however, I didn't get out of third gear (Remember I said "short"). Next I'll go out some of the back roads where I can get into the overdrive. I'm looking at any issues with the brakes or the pinion angle. The other thing I need to deal with is the e-brake setup. I purchased a Lokar universal e-brake kit and everything went fine until I cut the inner cables. The instructions say to use a certain type of Klein pliers, available at Home Depot. I purchased said pliers and the'y would not cut the cables. I then went to a cut-off wheel and it worked fine on the first cut. However, the second cable completely unraveled on me. I still need to pull these cables out of the sheathing so I can shorten the spring between the backing plate and the e-brake lever, located inside the drums. I'm hoping I can purchase just a replacement cable from Lokar and not have to buy a whole kit. We'll see...  Check out the photos. The first two show the routing of the new cables. The last one the frayed cable after I cut it.

[tom'sB2B]

That's a nice, clean set-up. Which set-up did you use in the cab..floor, under the dash, or the original pull? I hope to see you and your truck at the picnic..I'm going to steal your design?.

I look forward to seeing your progress.

[DJ194950]

I hope the instructions said to tape the cable tight with tape Before the cutting to prevent the fraying, something I have always read in thin cable cutting instructs?

 

DJ

[Jim Shepard]

My truck is a B2B so the pull handle is under the dash. No, the instructions did not say to wrap the cable first. In hindsight, that might have worked better...

[kencombs]

3 hours ago, Jim Shepard said:

My truck is a B2B so the pull handle is under the dash. No, the instructions did not say to wrap the cable first. In hindsight, that might have worked better...

I used a couple of layers of heat shrink tubing instead of tape on some similar cuts.  Works well.  Much easier to get a good tight fit.

[Jim Shepard]

Took the truck out for an extended spin. No obvious pinion angle issues so I think I'm good-to-go on the rear end conversion. I still have some vibration in the front when I get up to 55mph or so. That will be dealt with when I convert to a Mustang II kit.