Bryan Posted October 6, 2021 Report Posted October 6, 2021 When I think about my upcoming engine overhaul I start looking into all the "improvements" I could be making. Someone needs to post a Batman slapping Robin. I'm going to leave it with by-pass oil filtering, keep it 6V, no cross drilling cranks, no cooling passage mods..just a Power Wagon PVC kit, 180-195 thermostat and regular air filter. Crap, I'm not going to be driving 100 miles on the interstate at 75 mph. Probably just putting around here at local car meetings. I can change oil more often. My father drove it for years with no problems except it stalling when it got hot in parades. I have the original heat shield and can route the fuel line further away. maybe insulate it and check the carb float level. Keep getting antsy and researching too much. I'm not racing it or driving long distances. 5 Quote
Bryan Posted October 6, 2021 Author Report Posted October 6, 2021 Plus, I have a Plymouth motor in it..I'm not going into the woods and disassembling THAT car's front end and trying to pull the other Dodge motor. Which means cutting 10 pines out to get to it. Quote
DJK Posted October 6, 2021 Report Posted October 6, 2021 I love my 6v positive ground alternator and Carter electric fuel pump. Two modifications easily reversed. Pay special attention to the valve guides on your rebuild, I listened to the machine shop and now am using 1 qt/500 miles. 1 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 6, 2021 Report Posted October 6, 2021 Don't take on too much initially. Don't disassemble the car more than necessary unless you have done this type of work before. If the engine is the main project get that done now completely and no more. Do that then have fun driving your new ride then decide on doing new projects on the car. As for valve guides yes the machine shop needs to properly replace them. 2 Quote
Matt Wilson Posted October 6, 2021 Report Posted October 6, 2021 2 hours ago, DJK said: I love my 6v positive ground alternator and Carter electric fuel pump. Two modifications easily reversed. Pay special attention to the valve guides on your rebuild, I listened to the machine shop and now am using 1 qt/500 miles. Not to take this thread on too much of a tangent, but do you mind elaborating on what happened to your valve guides to cause so much oil burning? 1 Quote
Matt Wilson Posted October 6, 2021 Report Posted October 6, 2021 2 hours ago, DJK said: I love my 6v positive ground alternator and Carter electric fuel pump. Two modifications easily reversed. Pay special attention to the valve guides on your rebuild, I listened to the machine shop and now am using 1 qt/500 miles. Nevermind, I just now saw the other topic that you started, where you described the problem. Quote
Doug&Deb Posted October 6, 2021 Report Posted October 6, 2021 Always remember that these cars were once daily drivers. If you want to drive 100 miles on the interstate it’s fine. I just did a 320 some mile trip over Labor Day weekend. The original engineering will be just fine. 2 Quote
plymouthcranbrook Posted October 6, 2021 Report Posted October 6, 2021 The best way to keep a reliable car from back then is the same way you do it on a new one of today. Keep up with maintenance, fix things when they break(rarely do cars ever fix themselves), and drive in a sensible manner. Accelerate gently, stop by planning ahead, and in general try to drive as the car/truck was designed to do. As Doug&Deb said there is no reason you can’t enjoy the car. Just be smart about it. 5 Quote
Sniper Posted October 7, 2021 Report Posted October 7, 2021 maintenance is key, but understand that these older cars require a lot more maintenance than today's stuff. Just look at the charts int eh service manual. 3 Quote
tom'sB2B Posted October 7, 2021 Report Posted October 7, 2021 There are many great build threads on this forum. This is one of my favorites. It's good you're thinking ahead. 1 Quote
DJK Posted October 7, 2021 Report Posted October 7, 2021 21 hours ago, Matt Wilson said: Not to take this thread on too much of a tangent, but do you mind elaborating on what happened to your valve guides to cause so much oil burning? He said they were within specs so all that was done to the valves and seats was a reface. Quote
DJK Posted October 7, 2021 Report Posted October 7, 2021 Back in the day, next to the gas pumps, were racks of oil cans!!!!!! Quote
keithb7 Posted October 7, 2021 Report Posted October 7, 2021 (edited) 20 minutes ago, DJK said: He said they were within specs so all that was done to the valves and seats was a reface. Are you seeing blue smoke all the time? Or mainly on deceleration down a hill, coasting? Then at the bottom of said hill when you hit the gas, it puffs blue smoke? Perhaps when you come coasting to a stop sign or a red light. Upon re-acceleration you get the blue smoke out the tail pipe? Then the blue smoke clears up after a few seconds of acceleration? These are some signs of worn valve guides or valve stems. Hooking up a vacuum gauge and monitoring needle movement may also help confirm valve guide wear. If you are burning oil all the time and it does not clean up during acceleration, the cause may likely rings/cylinder wall sealing issues. A wet/dry compression test may verify your situation. I am going through the effort of a rebuild now. I went pretty well all-in. All new parts. except block, head, rods and crank. New camshaft, valves, guides, tappets, all bearings, pistons & rings, water pump, oil pump, timing gears and chain, rebuilt generator, rebuilt rad last summer, all new seals and gaskets. All machining done. It's a lot of effort to go back in. I figure I am this far in, I'm doing all wearing parts. All back to stock specs. No modifications. Stock worked for 83 years. It'll go another 83, if we can still get gasoline. Edited October 7, 2021 by keithb7 Quote
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