Doug&Deb Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 Anyone know the approximate weight of a 230 and Gyromatic combination? I found a used one and I’m not sure if my shop crane will be sufficient to lift it out of my truck. Quote
Sniper Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 I had the same question when I got my 230, well just for the engine. 700lbs was the number I recall being mentioned, for just the engine. So I (way over)built my gantry crane. Didn't even grunt picking it up. My shop crane is pushing 30 years old, so i don't think I trust it that much. Quote
keithb7 Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 I’ve not weighed my 237 engine. I agree with Sniper at near 700 lbs for the engine alone, assembled. I am able to manipulate the stripped block without a hoist. Not completely lift it, but manipulate it around on wood blocking, or pallets for example. Some slung weight can be saved by removing bolt-on items. Starter, cylinder head, manifolds, etc. Depends on the path you are on, and your end goal. You may be able to rent a hoist. You’ll need a couple of chains with hooks. A leveler is not required but nice for installing it in your car. My hoist is rated for 4,000 lbs. Overkill for a flathead Mopar 6 engine. Quote
joecoozie Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 43 minutes ago, Sniper said: I had the same question when I got my 230, well just for the engine. 700lbs was the number I recall being mentioned, for just the engine. So I (way over)built my gantry crane. Didn't even grunt picking it up. My shop crane is pushing 30 years old, so i don't think I trust it that much. You can also locate the support beam in your garage/shed/shop and hang the hoist from that. I put 6X6's upright - floor to ceiling - on each end to support the ends of the beam. Or maybe find a large tree limb....... That's how I have mine set up in my garage plus I have an engine hoist (roll around) that I used to pull/move 6 cylinder engines with trannies connected from many 40's Chrysler products with no issues. You just cannot extend the arm too far as that decreases the load capacity. As an option - it is not that difficult to disconnect the trans from the engine if you are concerned about hoisting both together Quote
Eneto-55 Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 Depends on having an open ceiling, building width, truss quality & spacing, but we pulled a lot of engines by setting a drive shaft across three trusses in the cradle, hanging our chain hoist on that. I did my assembled 230 that way (w/o trannie), and we also pulled & re-installed a 394 Oldsmobile V8 - might have had the automatic transmission hanging on it too - don't remember - decades ago. I lifted the body off of my P15 that way too - w/ the same arrangement front & back. (First time with the doors on, later w/o the doors.) (Dad's shop was 24' wide, trusses made in 1967, 24" center.) Quote
kencombs Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 I agree with the earlier answers as to engine weight, high 600s for the engine. The huge iron FD housing, trans and fluid coupling add a lot, I'd guess another 250-300, but that's just a guess. If it were one of the semiautos it would be heavier yet. Most of the common engine lifts like sold at HF and other retailers will handle 1000lbs or more. IME, they lift it fine but the caster mobility is not great. And, be sure to lower as far as possible as soon as possible 'cause they tend to be unstable when raised. Quote
keithb7 Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 The triangle of death....Instability. I did not attempt to roll the hoist here. I rolled the car backwards, then lowered the engine. Later I removed the rad nose cone. Doh! Removing it first leads to a longer average life expectancy rate. Quote
Doug&Deb Posted July 31, 2021 Author Report Posted July 31, 2021 Thanks everyone. At this point I’m planning on using some components from the engine for my coronet. Long term goal is to rebuild it if possible. Something I’ve not done yet but it’s high time I learned. The seller will load it on my truck. I just need to unload it and find a corner of the garage to store it. Quote
Sniper Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 I believe that picture right there is what prompted me to build my setup 2 Quote
46BulldogDodge Posted July 31, 2021 Report Posted July 31, 2021 My hydraulic lift is rated 2 ton at the shortest arm extension and 1 ton at the farthest. It handled a 331 Hemi with auto transmission attached. I didn't roll my truck away but turned the hoist 90 degrees and got the engine/trans on the ground quickly. Right now it's on two wheel skates if I need to shuffle it around the garage. If you buy,borrow, or rent a lift, get a reliable one...avoiding 'horrible fright' types. Used ones are not expensive, maybe $100-150. Likewise for engine stands, they run $40-60. Dick Hultman Pittsburgh, PA 46 WC & 57 FFPW Quote
Polsonator2 Posted August 1, 2021 Report Posted August 1, 2021 (edited) Watching Keith's Youtube video inspired me and was a big help in removing my engine. I used a Harbor Freight hoist and also removed all bolt ons. It was also way easier to remove taking the front nose off. I used a leveler too per Keith's video suggestion and it was a huge help. The leveler also made it super easy to get the motor on the motor mounts during reinstallation. Like Keith, I was able to do it all solo. Having the nose off allowed me to also not have to lift the motor as high. I also just rolled the car out of the way before moving the hoist. Edited August 1, 2021 by Polsonator2 1 Quote
keithb7 Posted August 1, 2021 Report Posted August 1, 2021 That’s fantastic @Polsonator2. Great to see your work. I am very pleased to hear that my videos are inspiring and helping others. That is the main reason I put in the production effort. I have heard very similar comments from other Mopar owners too. Its is very rewarding to me. What did you do to your engine while it was out? Or was the purpose for pulling it some other reason? I am ready to reassemble my engine. Its just been so dang hot here, I’m procrastinating until the fall. I must admit too that my new Chrysler has taken most my attention. I plan to begin engine reassembly when my garage is a little cooler. No hurry. Its a hobby. 2 Quote
_shel_ny Posted August 1, 2021 Report Posted August 1, 2021 Saw what was labeled as a 1950 Buick at the upull this week. Had a straight 8 in it. Thought about what a beast that would be to remove. I pulled the 230 on my D24, but this would be more of a challenge. Quote
Polsonator2 Posted August 2, 2021 Report Posted August 2, 2021 (edited) @keithb7 my 218 motor, after patching it up with bearings (spun a rod bearing up on it about 10k miles ago) it finally gave up the ghost. The crank really needed to be ground and one of the cylinders had the wrist pin circlips break off which severely gouged the cylinder walls. These were new clips, rings, and pistons too as I replaced them in all 6 cylinders. Not sure why they failed on this cylinder. It gave me good service, basically almost 50k miles I put on it over 6 years. I found a rebuilt 230 which I then swapped out. Edited August 2, 2021 by Polsonator2 1 Quote
tom'sB2B Posted August 2, 2021 Report Posted August 2, 2021 Much easier and less stress to remove the front clip. 1 Quote
keithb7 Posted August 2, 2021 Report Posted August 2, 2021 Unless the rad nose cone clip is 83 years old and has never been off. Lots of hardware from the Titanic. Cutting, heating... Beer and hours later it may have been harder to remove the clip than pull the actual engine. 1 Quote
Polsonator2 Posted August 2, 2021 Report Posted August 2, 2021 My nose came off easy but if I took the whole front end including fenders off, that would have been a nightmare exploration of the Titanic indeed, especially where the running boards bolt on Quote
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