Chrysler Industrial help!

[Krusty]

Once it warms up a bit today I will add a bit of oil to the cylinders and will see if it fires that way. Next step will be the ATF and go from there. Any leads on sources for engine kits if I have to go that route?

[Dave72dt]

These are relatively low compression engines so you can't expect really high numbers.  120 isn't that bad with an unknown amount of wear.  If you determine it needs to be redone, it will have to come apart to determine the amount and type of machine work needed or if it can  be redone.  If it needs a bore, the machine shop can often get the best deals on kits plus they may have better access to companies that can supply them and get the correct sizes for those parts.  Best brand gaskets appear to be the company of choice so you would need to source them or specify them.

[Krusty]

Well adding oil to all cyls and trying to get it to fire would not work. Plugs may have also been dipped in oil when the piston came up. Will get the engine out this week. I had a lead on a replacement cheap but the guy told me to come this am for it but sold it yesterday. sat in his garage for over a year and he could not get rid of it. Oh well.

[Merle Coggins]

Why pull the engine? It sounds like it cranks over and has decent compression. Get some spark and fuel to it and it’ll run. 

[HotRodTractor]

I could have used this machine a few weeks back.... lol

You have plenty of compression to get it up and running and then evaluate after you've had a few heat cycles and some load on the engine. 

[Krusty]

I think I did not make it clear. It only has 75 psi and will not fire, hence why it is coming out. Maybe if it was summer it would fire, but not at the current temps hovering arojnd freezing. Spark is good, gas down the carb or ether does nothing to get er going.

[kencombs]

75psi is plenty to start. After running it is likely to improve.  Spark plug condition??

[Krusty]

Plugs are new. Spark is good. Timing could always be off slightly but even if so, would have thought it would have at least fired, or backfired. Not sure what else to look for at this point. Ignition circuit is on a separate battery.

[Merle Coggins]

I agree that 75 psi of compression should be enough to get it running. After a heat cycle or two that number may improve. Double check the ignition timing and open up the throttle slightly while cranking. If you have spark and gas it should run, as long as the spark comes at the right time. 

[JBNeal]

Fuel fouled spark plugs are an obstacle that I ran into in winter months when the flatheads would crank too long.  I would remove each spark plug, clean off debris with a brass bristle brush from electrode + tip, spray a 2 second blast of ether down the slightly open carburetor, apply full choke and 1/4 throttle, then crank the starter, with 2 pumps of throttle pedal per second after cranking for 3 seconds if the engine did not fire immediately.  If this did not work after 15 seconds, I would repeat this entire procedure once more...after that, I would take a break for a few hours to charge the battery back up to full.  Most of the time this worked, the next step was to clean the carburetor to get a dribbling jet to spray properly.

 

Another twist to this procedure is to be in 2 places at the same time with the flathead in the truck.  Choke and throttle are set in the cab, key turned on, park brake set.  Ether spray nozzle added the tube that comes with most brake cleaner cans.  Temporary linkage made from steel rod so that carburetor throttle could be operated from the driver fender area while the starter arm was actuated by hand.  Plenty of hand-eye coordination required for this procedure...and it's great fun when it works

[Krusty]

Well this has me stumped. I love old machines and this is the first one I cannot get to fire for the life of me. Got TDC and confirmed the plug wiring, adjusted the distributor either way a few degrees at a time and nothing with ether or gasoline. Lots of great spark. Going to pop the carb off and make sure there is no dead mouse stuffed down there restricting air or something. I can pour fuel and shot of ether to no avail! Grrrrrrrr......

[Los_Control]

How did you determine tdc?

I used the hole in the #6 cyl. If you get it up on exhaust, then #1 is up on compression.

I just used the hole to get #6 on compression, then ran the plug wires starting from #6 and where the rotor pointed.

 

If your engine was rebuilt or new oil pump installed, if they did not follow instructions #1 on the distributor is no longer where the picture books shows it to be.

Mine they made a attempt, but #1 wire on distributor is now 1 position ccw from what the manual shows .... I fought this for a few days then moved the wires and she fired right up.

Distributor is ran off the oil pump, if oil pump is not installed correctly your wiring order will not match the pictures in the manual.

[Krusty]

Did some more forum reading and someone on another thread said when in doubt go over it again. My spidy sense said ignition but I could not figure it out. So I did go over it all again. Adjusted the points gap and........

 

 

Might need a new water pump as there is some noise there but it purrs! Next will be an oil change as I tossed a fair amount of gas down the carb trying to get it to fire. Would have had a cold one to celebrate but -13c windchill was enough for me today. Thanks for all the tidbits! There is nothing more exciting than getting a super deal on an old machine.

[Krusty]

@Los_Controlone thing I noticed from the pic was the #1 rotor position was off a bit. Motor had been rebuilt at some point. I used the #6 tdc technique that was suggested as you did. Heck considering I just saved 2k on a rebuild I better go take that $$ and buy another classic it always irks me how people bastardize an ignition system. When I got this one side of the distrib was missing the hold down clip and the owner used a zip tie.

[Los_Control]

That motor sounds great ... something to think about, the wire inside the dizzy on a + ground system, if the cloth covering is worn off it can short out and arc against the dizzy housing.

Possible you were right the first time, but re-checking your work you moved it and not shorting it out.

Original is a cloth covered wire and covering gone by now ... it does need insulation and may need replaced. If that wire insulation is bad you need to replace it or will get strange issues again.

 

Glad you got it 

[Merle Coggins]

NICE!!  Is there a steering pump driven off the engine belt drive? Sounded like a dry pump to me. 

[HotRodTractor]

 

13 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

NICE!!  Is there a steering pump driven off the engine belt drive? Sounded like a dry pump to me. 

 A lot of these industrial engines have a hydraulic pump run directly off the front of the crank with a rubber rag coupling. I know that both my tractor and the engine I pulled out of a combine are setup like this. 

[Krusty]

Yes it has the hydraulic pump and the tank was low so added fluid. Might need to run for a few to work its way through the system. Plan to change the oil after lunch and then take the kids for a ride. Will get it moved out of the way while I finish the tuneup and fluid checks over the warmer weather.

[Plymouthy Adams]

sweet thing about hydraulics is they self purge so easily on application.....exercise it and let the big dog eat..

[Krusty]

Took the boys for a little ride today. Fortunately (for me, not them) we are pretty much out of snow. Peeked into the box of parts that was on the bench seat. Was full of new ignition stuff.....go figure. Thanks for all of your help! Will post a vid this coming Dec when the snow flies again

 

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

would have been a better video if you were to plow through that black chebbie truck....?

[Merle Coggins]

Too cool! Not the greatest forward visibility. Seems that the chute blocks a lot of view. 

[RCrombie]

That’s a cool machine! I would love to see a video of it in action. 

I see you’re north of the border, where abouts? I’m in the Ottawa area.

 

cheers

Rob

[Krusty]

A Chebbie....love it! Problem is I love all old stuff. Not a particular brand. Plan is to put a 3-53 into that Chebbie this summer and build a flatbed dump on her.

 

@RCrombiewe could almost be neighbors! As you are aware, our snowfall in Ottawa was a tad lame this year. Next year I will be properly prepared though

 

I could not find a tractor with a cab under 10,000 locally that was functional. Nothing worse than my B414 blowing snow with a gust of wind changing direction and putting it all into my face. This old baby was less than 2k canadian pesos so I could not refuse. 70 bucks in ignition parts and it should be good for a few years