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Chrysler Industrial help!


Krusty

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Gang, 

 

New to the forum and there is a plethora of helpful info. My interest is in old machinery with Chrysler flatheads. First was a Bombardier JW with a 251 and it took a bit to get running right. Turned out to need some ignition work and learned a lot while working on it.

 

New project is an old Sicard snowblower. Long story (or not) of how it ended up in my yard. 

 

Has a big 11L cummins in the back to power the snowblower and a 265 flathead up front to run the drivetrain. When I went to see it he got the 265 running and it was running fine but he said it needs work as was hard to start. Now it is home and I am debugging why it is hard to start, or will not start. 

 

Gas down the carb it wont fire. Maybe I need more. Ether does not make it fire. Leads me to believe it has spark issues. I put a known good distributor in and will try a new coil this aft. Spark at the plugs looks weak. Will swap them this aft along with a compression test.

 

Aside from timing, any other oddities I should consider? Has a Rochester and will getnit rebuilt if needed. Once it was running, it ran fine. The previous owner had half the distributor held down with a ziptie so I am trying to undo all the bad choices made in its past.

 

If anyone can explain timing that would be awesome. Have yet to crawl under it to examine any inspection areas around the flywheel. Not sure what I would be able to easily swap in as an alternate if needed. The bellhousing end is of course tbd. Ironically the cummins runs like a top!

 

Krusty

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What is the condition of your battery cables? Is it a 12 volt system or 6 volt? Bad, or undersize, cables can cause a voltage drop during cranking that significantly reduces the capacity of your ignition system. After it finally starts, and the starter motor isn't pulling down the voltage, it will run just fine. 

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your compression test should speak volumes in state of the engine.  You should always do a voltage drop test on older equipment new to your to determine the validity of the wiring harness and connections.  So many folks overlook this simple non invasive testing (no need to disconnect).  Read a few white papers on ignition....it will boost your knowledge or remind you of things we often take for granted but needs checking.  Never underestimate your capacity for error when tuning an engine....we all can and will make a simple boo-boo connecting things.  Run your ignition from a separate voltage source if you think you are pulling to  many amps and starving the ignition.  A good amp meter works wonders in determining starter condition...use one....last system I checked had a voltage drop in cable battery to solenoid/system feed and the current drain was greatly increased and the ignition was starving for current.

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Thanks for the input. I am pretty well versed with ignition things so plan to have a separate battery for the ignition to get through this. It does have some spaghetti wiring in there now and wont take much to get it normal. My compression tester seems to be having issues so will grab another this week. Right now it appears to be a 24v system. The starter is tired as well so will get that rebuilt this week. Should take a week to warm up again outside and get to a decision on ripping the engine out. 

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Will def get some pics. It is a Sicard Snowmaster Junior. My most hated winter task is clearing the lane on my cabless tractor. This was priced right to fix it up and could not refuse buying it. Even if I have to swap engines up front. I long for the day I start it up when it is -20c, let it warm up with the interior heater and clean my lane in 5 minutes :)

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Our airport had a couple of these or something very similar. I think they killed one cleaning out the 88 inches that fell over a 16 hour period in the blizzard of 66.

 

 

 

https://bangshift.com/bangshiftxl/roadside-find-this-snow-eating-monster-is-the-kind-of-thing-we-love-dodging-traffic-to-check-out-full-story-here/

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@greg gI am a 3 hour drive north of you and dont get quite as much snow as you! That is indeed the machine. There is nothing worse than blowing a foot of snow with the 6' blower on my tractor and then the wind gusts blowing whatever came out of the chute back into your face.

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1 hour ago, greg g said:

read the article and the comment....this guy and myself would likely get along pretty well...his comment....

 

Chevy Hatin' Mad GeordieMay 2, 2015 at 1:37 am

Oh yes baby!

Fire this mother up and run riot at a Chevy owners club event – the hills are alive with rending metal, hideous screaming and my maniacal laughter!

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
  • Haha 1
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13 minutes ago, Krusty said:

@greg gI am a 3 hour drive north of you and dont get quite as much snow as you! That is indeed the machine. There is nothing worse than blowing a foot of snow with the 6' blower on my tractor and then the wind gusts blowing whatever came out of the chute back into your face.

 

A friend of mine has been known to wear his full face motorcycle helmet while snow blowing to keep the snow out of his face. 

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I use my 85 wheel horse 10horse tractor with a four foot blade, concrete wheelweights and chains. Drive is 12 wide and 110 deep. The last bit has 40 inch high retaining wall and it turns off the busiest state highway in the area, so I can't push snow across due to traffic. I push it all to one side under our fire bush hedge.  Use the snow blower to clear out for the mail man.

 

We are behind on snow this year have only néxex to plow 5 or six times.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

We got some warm temps so went back to work on the ignition. It is producing nice hot spark now on an aux circuit until I get things figured out. Tested the compression and might need a new gauge. Its showing a pulsing 60 psi on all cylinders. Will confirm with a new gauge this aft. I could see if a valve or two was stuck open I guess or something but it was odd across all. Stay tuned!

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Ya I went to get a new compression tester. Seems like the last one was a dud. Ran out of interest after testing 4 cyls. Psi was 75 to 83 psi on the 4 i tested and with an oz of oil put in the compression jumped to 120+ in all cylinders. Here I would have thought 75 psi would have been fine! Ok kidding. So i guess this will have to come out. Local guy has a smaller displacement flathead 6 i can score for $100 that runs ok that i can use to move it around the yard while I take my time with a proper rebuild over the summer. 318s are pretty easy to find locally as well and wonder how they would attach up to the bellhousing? There is lots of space for a 318 as they are cheap but the front of the flathead drives a hydraulic pump so would have to bastardize something if I did  ot stick with a 6 banger.

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13 minutes ago, Krusty said:

Sorry I was not clear. Tested 4 out of 6 and it ranged from 75 to 83 psi across all 4. When I added some engine oil to each and retested they all were above 120 psi.

That's how I read it. That 120 should be fine assuming the other 2 come in close 

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HMMM, seems to me 120 wet and 75 dry spells ring issues.  Could be wear, could be a rust film, could be stuck.  I'd add some ATF to each one.  let it set a few days, then fire it up and run it, a lot!  Then retest.  May still need work, but at least you'll be sure.

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1 hour ago, kencombs said:

HMMM, seems to me 120 wet and 75 dry spells ring issues.  Could be wear, could be a rust film, could be stuck.  I'd add some ATF to each one.  let it set a few days, then fire it up and run it, a lot!  Then retest.  May still need work, but at least you'll be sure.


Ditto

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