46 coupe on 06 charger.

[David T]

I pulled everything out under the dash.  Looks like he set the wires on fire anyway.... seems to me it needs some reinforcing around the cowl.  The towers look untouched, all the way to where the p15 body was somewhat welded in. 

[RobertKB]

No offence meant but I would save any worthwhile parts and send the rest to the crusher. Your “helper” truly screwed you. 
 

 

[David T]

38 minutes ago, RobertKB said:

 

No offence meant but I would save any worthwhile parts and send the rest to the crusher. Your “helper” truly

 

Nah.  It’ll work.  Ya’ll are too negative on this site.  I was hoping for some positive, creative solutions. 

[David T]

On 12/6/2020 at 1:46 PM, knuckleharley said:

he only other practical option I see would be to remove the inner fenders and reinforce them with a brace near the top and the bottom that are located so they aren't in the way of parts replacements. That would also give you the advantage of creating header clearances.

Headers are already on.  But I like the way you think.  I’ll prob strip everything from motor that isnt “needed” to run.  Slim things up, order some fender wells that i can customize, then build the brackets.  I already have a smaller fan and radiator. 

[David T]

On 12/6/2020 at 10:50 AM, knuckleharley said:

WOW! THAT would result in a deep breath,or 117 of them if it were me. Might even involve lawyers and deputies before the dust settled and the blood was mopped up.

 

Good on you that you handled it better.

Lol.  Maybe.  I wont discuss what may or may have occurred but lets say he wasnt very comfortable.  
In the motorcycle world guys arent nearly this unreliable or bad.  Im thinking car guys are just 180 out from what Im used too. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

24 minutes ago, David T said:

Nah.  It’ll work.  Ya’ll are too negative on this site.  I was hoping for some positive, creative solutions. 

not so sure the word negative is applicable as say is the word 'realistic'

[Frank Elder]

4 hours ago, David T said:

 

I pulled everything out under the dash.  Looks like he set the wires on fire anyway.... seems to me it needs some reinforcing around the cowl.  The towers look untouched, all the way to where the p15 body was somewhat welded in. 

It does look a lot more solid from that angle David, don't let the others get you down, I hope you can make it work for you?

[David T]

7 hours ago, Frank Elder said:

It does look a lot more solid from that angle David, don't let the others get you down, I hope you can make it work for you?

Thanks! 

[Tooljunkie]

This is a huge project. The “guy” has a ton of hours into this. But bit off more than he could chew. 
i dont know if there would be a systematic approach to this, but strength in the framework would be job 1. I would plan on lots of bolt in stiffeners,and fitting the 1 piece flip front end. 
when i build/fab anything i like to take the time to make things serviceable.

watching videos,or shows with custom builds, i wonder how some even check the oil.

even the simplest things, like a repower, i have installed/removed engines 4 times. This applies to almost every aspect. 

[kencombs]

I can't tell much about the structure past the engine, but the thing that struck me first is the lack of structure tieing the front 'frame' together.  The radiator support is a major part of the stiffness in unibody cars.  That would be my first objective.  Those sawed off pieces in this pic:

would need to be tied together and braced to the towers in my world.  I'll be a jack under either of those gaping frame holes would result in a lot of chassis twist.

Edited December 11, 2020 by kencombs

[Mike Petersen]

If the goal is to have the hemi. A truck chassis would have been a easier route. Maybe a Durango,Aspen suv. But keep at it if you believe in your concept. 

[Lloyd]

I certainly don't have the experience to look at a frame and determine where it needs braced. But if I was going to consider swapping a body to another chassis I would remove just the body from both chassis. Nothing else.. That way I wouldn't have to worry about that sort of stuff.

If I needed to change anything I would look at changing the body to fit the chassis. Not the chassis to fit the body.

Make certain you get the engine wiring harness from the Challenger if you haven't already.

Good luck..

[Plymouthy Adams]

21 minutes ago, Lloyd said:

I certainly don't have the experience to look at a frame and determine where it needs braced. But if I was going to consider swapping a body to another chassis I would remove just the body from both chassis. Nothing else.. That way I wouldn't have to worry about that sort of stuff.

If I needed to change anything I would look at changing the body to fit the chassis. Not the chassis to fit the body.

Make certain you get the engine wiring harness from the Challenger if you haven't already.

Good luck..

as for the wiring...appears by his statement the dash wiring burnt in welding along with the main harness cut as shown in one of his pictures...he is going to need a retro wiring kit which from quite expensive if purchased, quite involved in making it....but either way would have been best if it were removed and placed aside for safe keeping till later....good thing is many wrecking yards do not ask much for harnesses...finding one that even they did not slice and dice selling engine and tranny may be tricky.....need to be first on scene most of the time.

[David T]

20 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

as for the wiring...appears by his statement the dash wiring burnt in welding along with the main harness cut as shown in one of his pictures...he is going to need a retro wiring kit which from quite expensive if purchased, quite involved in making it....but either way would have been best if it were removed and placed aside for safe keeping till later....good thing is many wrecking yards do not ask much for harnesses...finding one that even they did not slice and dice selling engine and tranny may be tricky.....need to be first on scene most of the time.

No, retro wiring isnt that expensive.  Around 1100.00 for a standalone w/all the deletes.  However, to run the trans you must have the computer AND the tire pressure sensors (strange).  I will run the 46 dash/gauges.  

[David T]

1 hour ago, kencombs said:

I can't tell much about the structure past the engine, but the thing that struck me first is the lack of structure tieing the front 'frame' together.  The radiator support is a major part of the stiffness in unibody cars.  That would be my first objective.  Those sawed off pieces in this pic:

would need to be tied together and braced to the towers in my world.  I'll be a jack under either of those gaping frame holes would result in a lot of chassis twist.

I agree.  I did manage to take the original frame too, so i have those pieces (im just now getting to the car, so its been a while.  Do you have any recommendations? 

[David T]

2 hours ago, kencombs said:

I can't tell much about the structure past the engine, but the thing that struck me first is the lack of structure tieing the front 'frame' together.  The radiator support is a major part of the stiffness in unibody cars.  That would be my first objective.  Those sawed off pieces in this pic:

would need to be tied together and braced to the towers in my world.  I'll be a jack under either of those gaping frame holes would result in a lot of chassis twist.

It is supported by the frame still.  

[David T]

It supports the towers.  Other than the top 3” of the cowl, and front of the frame (bumper area) doesnt look like he touched the frame.  All else is intact. 

[David T]

The way I see it.... minus bracing the cowl, and tower struts, I think the frame is good.  I just need to conform (meaning customize) the front to match the P15 dimensions. 
 

thoughts? 

[kencombs]

1 hour ago, David T said:

It supports the towers.  Other than the top 3” of the cowl, and front of the frame (bumper area) doesnt look like he touched the frame.  All else is intact. 

On most unibody cars, that radiator support area is a major component in resisting twisting from forces acting on one wheel.   It is tall and rectangular when viewed from the front. 

[David T]

Im thinking of these (or ones like them) tower to cowl struts.

[David T]

On 12/11/2020 at 11:49 AM, kencombs said:

On most unibody cars, that radiator support area is a major component in resisting twisting from forces acting on one wheel.   It is tall and rectangular when viewed from the front. 

Yeah, I get what your saying.  Whats weird is on the chargers they are made of plastic, fiberglass and steel.  I do need to figure out how this can be done.  I’ll take pic of radiator and fan that were ordered that should fit.  Im open to suggestions....

[David T]

This is where I will get the standalone harness..

 

https://swapspecialties.com/product/hemi-standalone-harness/

 

[Bobby]

Yes and Definitely Yes on your last 2 posts... Good Luck with this!!!