New Member 1952 Coronet

[cef2lion]

Signing up to help a friend who is working on his grandfather 1952. Bought new and has 52K miles. Has the Gyromatic.  Has not run for awhile. Its been garage kept. Still 6 volt. Couple questions to start if someone can assist? We have no manuals as yet. Engine turns free by hand. Focusing first on ignition.

 

He bought a new 6 volt battery. Then I read that it should be positive ground. We connected the battery negative ground and pretty sure I remember the amp meter going the wrong way. Battery disconnected for now and will reverse the leads. We had no spark while cranking. We are trying to get spark then look at the fuel system.

 

I marked and pulled the distributor to check it out. He bought points and condenser at NAPA based on the year and model. I know know to go by the distributor. The points look like they are correct but not the condenser. Distributor is marked IAT-4011. Where is the best place to source IGN parts?

 

Couple side questions.

 

It has no radio but has an antenna. The antenna goes into a big metal box behind the speaker grille. Has a radio delete plate. There was a humming from that box when we connected the battery. I disconnected the fuse to the box for now. Maybe because we had the battery backwards.

 

Under the dash towards the left by the door is a red round knob. It turns. When turned clockwise it glows red. What would that be for or an add-on? 4 way flasher add on?

 

On the end of the shifter arm is a button. What would that be for?

[keithb7]

Welcome to the forum. 
 

The car likely had a radio at some point. Some radios had a tube powered head unit, with operator controls. It was then wired into a separate tube powered amplifier box with a speaker in it. One or both may have an old flapper type rectifier tube. It converts DC back to AC power to run that part of the radio. It does make a buzzing sound which is totally normal.  
 

Red knob that you turn and it lights up may be an aftermarket add on switch for fog lamps?  Does the shifter button appear to be a bolt on aftermarket? To allow manual shift control of the otherwise auto tranny shifting? I have heard of people adding a switch to accomplish this. 

Edited August 24, 2020 by keithb7

[Doug&Deb]

The shifter button allows you to downshift into 3rd without flooring the accelerator. It’s an aftermarket part called a Shiftrite. You are correct about ordering tune up parts by the distributor number. I have a 52 coronet also and it has an incorrect distributor for the year. It’s not uncommon for a previous owner to install whatever he had to keep his car on the road. Good luck and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Lots of knowledge here.

[Merle Coggins]

39 minutes ago, cef2lion said:

I marked and pulled the distributor to check it out. He bought points and condenser at NAPA based on the year and model. I know know to go by the distributor. The points look like they are correct but not the condenser. Distributor is marked IAT-4011. Where is the best place to source IGN parts?

 

Napa isn't a bad source for ign parts. Just call, or go back there, and verify that the parts you got are correct for your IAT-4011. If not, get the correct ones. If they are unable to cross reverence the distributor number then you may need to have the original Autolite numbers to cross reference. Some of the guys here have original parts books and can get those numbers for you. 

[cef2lion]

Thanks. Appreciate the help. I have been reading here an decided to sign up. I’m very good at working on cars. Have few projects of my own. Like to see this one back on the road. 
 

Button on end of shifter knob looked factory to us. Wire runs external down side column. What held it on is gone. 
 

Odd with the radio. Having the box behind the dash an the factory radio delete plate. Are there pictures of this radio setup?

 

We want to drain the tank but not sure what the fitting is? From surface it looks like a star bit but we can’t see up instead the plug. I read it might be the end of a socket extension. 
 

If it’s positive ground an we connected backwards. We only cranked it a few times. We had no spark. Had 6 volts at the coil. Would the battery connected backwards given us no spark? With distributor out I bench tested it with my fluke meter and the points were opening an closing the circuit. Have new points in with old condenser. New condenser would not fit. Was going to test coil an plug wires next. Do we need to excite the generator since we had the battery backwards for a bit. 

[cef2lion]

By way. How do you tell if this is a p15-d24. Don’t understand those terms. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

1/2" ratchet square drive will remove the drain plug.

[Doug&Deb]

P15-D24 are model names for 46 through early 49 Plymouth and Dodge. All Mopar flatheads are welcome here. Most mechanical issues are common for all of us. Whatever your problem someone here has been there and will help.

[Hamilton]

30 minutes ago, Doug&Deb said:

P15-D24 are model names for 46 through early 49 Plymouth and Dodge. All Mopar flatheads are welcome here. Most mechanical issues are common for all of us. Whatever your problem someone here has been there and will help.

 

Or most of them, anyway.  I have a '49 Plymouth (P18) that's included in the forum's name while my '49 Dodge (D30) is excluded.

 

_

Edited August 24, 2020 by Hamilton
typo

[cef2lion]

Once we resolve the spark issue we are going to try and start it with clean fuel in the carburetor bowl. Just to confirm it will run. We have the fuel line removed and plugged at the carburetor until we drain and clean the fuel tank/system.

 

The radiator is shot and removed. He will need to look for a replacement along with hoses. We have seen aluminum options online. Any suggestions? I was wondering about the thermostat. I'm concerned that the bolts to the thermostat housing are going to break off if we try remove it. I have also read about pulling the water pump and looking at the water distribution tube. A concern there. I don't see a good way to flush the cooling system short of pulling the freeze plugs.

 

We want to take it in steps and get each system up and working. The brakes don't work and it needs tires. We have a lift which helps.

[Jerry Roberts]

Here are Auto-Lite part numbers for the IAT-4011 distributor ;    Vacuum Chamber IAT- 2023RG  ,  cap IAT-1033  ,   rotor IAU-1016A ,  points IGW- 3028BS ,  condenser IAT-3076RA ,  breaker plate assy .  IAT-2004RA  .  This distributor fits a 1951 Dodge truck B-3B and B-3C and and possibly other vehicles .  I usually find my NOS Auto - Lite parts on ebay . 

[Booger]

4 hours ago, Hamilton said:

 

Or most of them, anyway.  I have a '49 Plymouth (P18) that's included in the forum's name while my '49 Dodge (D30) is excluded.

 

_

 

4 hours ago, Hamilton said:

 

Or most of them, anyway.  I have a '49 Plymouth (P18) that's included in the forum's name while my '49 Dodge (D30) is excluded.

 

_

all are welcome (Mopars) and the information here is priceless. there are some grumpy old timers in here...I like to call them the Apostles of Chrysler

[cef2lion]

Thank you for those part numbers. We called NAPA with IAT number. No luck with person we talked to. Will look around online. 
 

Interested in buying a good service manual. Any suggestions?

[joecoozie]

Just a little advice about trying to start a car that has sat for "a while". You must be patient.

You should take your time and not be in a great hurry to try and drop a battery in it and start it.  BTW it is positive ground. There are several steps to be performed before trying to start the car all of which will minimize the chance(s) of causing any damage to the engine.

1- Drain the oil and drop the oil pan and clean it out along with the oil sump screen and change the oil filter (if it has one). You'll be surprised at what you will see and find.

2- You already addressed this issue...Drain the gas tank and DO NOT run the car from the tank. Use a remote gas can connected to the fuel pump to avoid getting crud from the gas tank into the carb. The gas tank will more than likely need to dropped and sent out to be cleaned/lined. .

3- Before trying to start squirt some oil into each cylinder so as to have the piston rings lubed and to avoid scoring the cylinder walls. Turn the engine over by hand, with all of the plugs out, to make it easier.

4 - You are already addressing the ignition system. Make sure when reinstalling the distributor that you have #1 cylinder at TDC. You can find TDC easily by placing a ping pong ball over the spark plug hole and turning the engine over by hand until the ball pops up and then stop. That is a close to TDC as you are on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder. You can also pull the inspection plug at the rear of the engine on the head which allows access to #6 cylinder.

5 - There is a petcock drain plug on the side of the block that allows you to drain the block and flush it, too. There is no need to remove the freeze plugs.

Brakes are another topic for later.

You can slowly remove the thermostat housing bolts by spraying PB or WD-40 and tapping the heads to get the lube down into the threads. You can also heat them and loosen them slightly , squirt more lube, tighten them slightly, loosen them a little further, more lube, tighten them... working them back and forth a little at a time to avoid over-stressing them.

Shop manuals are on Ebay, Bernbaums(also sells tons of parts) etc.

 

[cef2lion]

Thanks for the advice. We are in no hurry to start it. Taking our time and learning. When it was put away the oil and filter were changed and the plugs removed to squirt oil in each cylinder. We did that again when we got it out. Still working on the ignition presently. 

[BobT-47P15]

Regarding service manuals......check on eBay under the year model of your car.  Often there are two things for sale---good originals and reprints of same.   Either is good. 

Another very good thing is a Parts Manual for the car.  Has good exploded views and list of all parts used in the various assemblies.  There are also other books like Chilton's and Motor's

manuals that are sometimes helpful.   NAPA stores sometimes have things we need for the oldies......and occasionally O'Reilly Auto has a few things that work.  Otherwise, keep

watching good old eBay and attend swap meets in your area......when they return after the cancellations due to the pandemic.     

Regarding the starting system.....make sure to install a set of "O" or "OO" gauge  battery cables  in order to best carry the needed current.  I had mine

made at a "battery warehouse" type store.  Many old cars now have skinny 12 volt cables due to replacements.      

Edited August 25, 2020 by BobT-47P15

[cef2lion]

Want to thank everyone for all the great help. Really appreciate it!!

 

Wanted to ask on the Ignition switch. We noticed that the engine will not turn over unless we push in on the key before turning it to the right. Assume not normal and the switch needs replaced? Unless you push in you don't feel and detents. It just rotates freely. Pushing and to the left. Is that an accessory position?

[cef2lion]

Got a photo of it the day we pulled it from the garage. When it was stored they rubbed grease on the lower body and bumpers.

[cef2lion]

This shows the radio delete plate but there is a big metal box behind the speaker that has wires going to it and the fender antenna plugs into it. 

 

I looked last night. The two knobs under the delete plate. Have cables attached that go to the box behind the speaker grille. Very odd. Makes me think there is a radio there without a station display?

Edited August 26, 2020 by cef2lion

[cef2lion]

Under left side of the dash is the red switch. When you rotate it clockwise it lights up. Not sure whats its for. We are thinking aftermarket 4 ways? All the lights are not functional so we are not sure.

[49WINDS]

If you haven't looked at Rock Auto yet they are a decent source for quite a few parts as well. I got a reprint of the factory repair manual for around $20, found one for your car for about the same price.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1952,coronet,3.8l+230cid+l6,1331749,literature,repair+manual,10335

[cef2lion]

Thank you! Those are good prices on the manual.

 

One thing I picked up on RockAuto. The condenser they show is the same one we got at NAPA that didn't fit. As we found out. Get distributor parts based on the distributor number.

[Doug&Deb]

Love the two tone! Mine is all gray inside and out. The gray ghost.

[cef2lion]

Thanks. Hoping to get all the grease off the body at some point and clean it up a bit. Focusing on the mechanics right now.

 

Got the gas tank drained. Cleaned out the carburetor which wasn't bad at all.

 

Distributor back in and verified static timing to TDC for number one. With timing marks at TDC I put an air hose with rubber tip in number one. Engine tried moved slightly. In number 6 you could hear air out the exhaust. Rotor was at 7 o'clock and pointing at number one on the cap. Moved distributor until point were open for static timing. Firing order is correct. I think we are good for ignition.

 

We are still wondering about the radio, Why does it appear to have a radio with a radio delete plate present? The two knobs you would think that control volume and station do connect to the box behind the speaker grille. But there is no station display. Just the blank factory plate.

[greg g]

Radio is likely an after market deal.  I had a 30s one where the chassis was bolted to the firewall and the control gear was on a small panel that bolted to the lower edge of the dash.  The knobs had imprinted escutchions behind them showing the volume level and tuning scale. 

 

The thing under the left end of the dash is probably an e brake on warning light. Maybe adjustable for brightness and or flash rate.