Parking brake cable

[Rodney_Hamon]

I just harvested a semi-broke emergency brake cable assembly off my parts car. It will eventually go into my truck. I had a helluva time slipping it through the small cavity between the motor mount and the cross member. The cable housing was sheared and the splayed wires looked like a long haired-wire brush-porcupine party. Snipped about 25 3-4” wires in order to snake it through. Bummed when I saw the damage. Can’t understand what would have caused it unless this car had a lot of rough gravel road past. Quik web search and I see I have replacement options but I wanted to keep the ‘51 assembly complete..just because   Advil time. 

[desoto1939]

So Rodney what are you looking for onyour post?

 

Are you looking for just a replacement ememgency brake cable.  You can just get these and then rehook intot he emergency brake handle and then attach the other end to the emergency brake band.

 

I will look in my EIS brake cable book to see if there is a brake cable number that you can use to find another cable.

 

There isa guy that sell brake cable at Hershey and he lives in Lebanon PA which is just utside of Hershey PA. He has very good prices.

Can yuou look up the part number in your parts manual and send that to me so I can verify the specific cable.  This is why I keep telling everyone they need to get parts cross reference catalogs to help with you restorations.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Edited February 16, 2020 by desoto1939

[Rodney_Hamon]

I guess my post was vague as I should have asked where I could get another cable just like the original. Just curious if others had a cable housing rupture. Part # looks like code 4-23-1. *1325  873.  71-72” long. I will swing by Napa and see what they have as well.  Also, I partly removed the dash inorder to remove a bracket for the lever assembly.  The next question I have is how do you remove the bulb end of the temp line out of the back of the temp gauge? Is that just stubborn pressed into the back?  I took a picture of it and stopped when I realized plyers was not the right way. Thanks for your reply. 

[Loren]

A lot of Speedometer shops do Control Cables. Thats the first place I'd go for help.

Let's face it they need the work. Mechanical instrument repair is not a growth industry. It's kind of like shoe repair shops.

My local Speedo shop had a 45 foot long "Engine Stop" cable made for my bus. They could not buy the materials that long from their supplier, so they had the supplier make the cable.

After that I "fear no cable!"

[Sniper]

The only way to take the "bulb end of the temp line out of the back of the temp gauge" is to permanent break it .

 

It's a mechanical gauge and that end is not designed to come apart once assembled, you have to unscrew the other end out of the engine and fish it thru the firewall if you want to take the gauge out of the vehicle.  Good luck not destroying the rubber grommet in the firewall though.

 

 

[Eneto-55]

The temp gauge & the capillary tube are a one piece assembly (soldered).  If you separate the two, the gas or what ever is in there will escape, and it's a very involved process to get it right again.  (I've never done this - just replying based on what I've read here in the past.  I think I remember reading that it is some poisonous gas.)

 

Edit: I see that Sniper already answered you on this.

Edited February 17, 2020 by Eneto-55
add note

[desoto1939]

Since you supplied the brake cable mopa number I was able to look up the EIS brake cable number for you.  The cable number is EIS  1805 to fit dodge 15 cable length 77 3/4 conduit length 61 the position that the cable attaches to is the hand lever.  My catalog has pictures of the cable and also cross reference number.

 

Rich

 

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Rodney_Hamon]

Rich, thanks for the #. I’ll work on that. I sent a pix of the parts car dash I removed today. I think I have a good speedo from the cluster. I lost the temp capillary tube though. Darn, was rusted badly in the block and when I gave it that “one too many turns” a little squirt of water I think shot out. The other one works at least. I’m learning. Thanks everybody for the info. 

[Los_Control]

On 2/16/2020 at 6:48 PM, Rodney_Hamon said:

Just curious if others had a cable housing rupture.

I have something similar, not quite as severe as yours, the cause is it laying on the exhaust down pipe.

In my case the muffler shop 40 years ago, used a pipe that comes straight down off manifold with a 90 degree bend, it should have been a bend over 90 degrees.

There is a shield that they pushed out of the way, and the E-brake cable that is held solid by a bracket, is laying right on the pipe.

Seems like the exhaust installer could have heated the pipe and bent it out of the way, but hey what do I know?

 

On 2/17/2020 at 10:41 AM, desoto1939 said:

The cable number is EIS  1805 to fit dodge 15

Mr Desoto I am curious if you think same cable would work in my 1950 dodge 1/2 ton that has the E-brake handle mounted under the dash?

Seems like a lot of these parts were versatile on many years/models

[Wes Flippen]

There is a tutorial floating around showing how to replace the bulb on the capillary tube. I had the same issue. Had two temp gauges, both missing the bulbs. Bought a new mechanical temp gauge with a bulb, followed  the tutorial. Little bit of tubing, solder, ice, and about 10 minutes of labor and works perfect.

[46BulldogDodge]

The best tutorial is in the section called Phil's Archives on the Dodge Powerwagons Forum.  Good luck with it!

 

Temperature 
http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

with a little hint at more:
http://p15-d24.com/topic/17617-temp-gauge-revisited/ 

[Los_Control]

I have not tried the repair myself yet, I planned to freeze the donor capillary tube over night in a large coffee can or 1 gallon container.

The cold sucks all the gas to the tube. The bigger the ice block the longer you have to work with it.

 

Probably overkill, I figure I have enough time for a second chance if not happy with first solder repair. Just take longer to melt before can test.

Thanks to Radaronwheels I may not need to do the repair now.

[Rodney_Hamon]

Nice info all. I am going to contact a local speedometer repair shop here in abq and see if they can repair the outter casing. I’m looking at different conduit options and doing my own temp repair. I will research the capillary bulb restoration link. I love that you can use an ordinary 1/2 pipe thread plug into the block when repairing things!  This summer I want to attempt to start this engine but much work is ahead

[Dodgeb4ya]

Don't destroy the temperature gauge bulb in the head if it won't pull out...

Pop the soft plug out of the head right above the bulb and wedge the bulb out.

Easy.

[JSabah]

I bought this off eBay and it is an exact copy Of the one I removed ... granted it is for a 49-50 but they were great to work with (in fact I got a call out of the blue to tell me that eBay overcharged on shipping and they were giving me a partial refund) and may be able to help you out. 
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Emergency-Hand-Parking-Brake-Cable-for-1949-1950-Plymouth/321060224498?fits=Year%3A1949|Make%3APlymouth&hash=item4ac0ae3df2:g:IdQAAOSwZQxW53Jz

[Rodney_Hamon]

Brilliant!  The parking cable site.  I put the broken temp bulb head and fitting into a vise after much soaking in liquid wrench and pressed it out. I wanted to understand how hard or easy it should be. Now I see how it should have been done the method that dodgeb4ya recommended. I will never make that mistake again.