Fernando Mendes Posted December 11, 2019 Report Posted December 11, 2019 Need help about 251 cid radiator cap rate please. Quote
1949 Wraith Posted December 11, 2019 Report Posted December 11, 2019 I would think around 4 psi. 1 Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted December 11, 2019 Author Report Posted December 11, 2019 I bought a 15 psi. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 11, 2019 Report Posted December 11, 2019 first off is your radiator a pressure type? you did not list an application but maybe wrong assuming your 52 Dodge...these were at that time of production at most 4lb caps...while the engine block with properly installed core plugs can withstand more pressure, you have to allow for the radiator construction along with the heater core and at the same time added consideration to their age and possible thinning process since original manufacture. I personally would not use the 15 lb cap 1 Quote
Charlie Stephenson Posted December 11, 2019 Report Posted December 11, 2019 10-04 A.L.F. Charlie Stephenson Quote
dmartin_egroup Posted December 12, 2019 Report Posted December 12, 2019 Good afternoon: The water pump shaft seals may not hold up if pressure cap is too high a value. It may be hard to research what water pump seals you have. Just sayin'.... In my opinion, the next weak spot would be the so-called freeze plugs. 1 Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted December 13, 2019 Author Report Posted December 13, 2019 On 12/11/2019 at 12:29 PM, Charlie Stephenson said: 10-04 A.L.F. Charlie Stephenson 10-04 ? Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted December 13, 2019 Author Report Posted December 13, 2019 It is a shame.There is no 4 psi radiator caps here in Brazil. Quote
1949 Wraith Posted December 13, 2019 Report Posted December 13, 2019 1 hour ago, Fernando Mendes said: It is a shame.There is no 4 psi radiator caps here in Brazil. Ebay Quote
Radarsonwheels Posted December 14, 2019 Report Posted December 14, 2019 My heater core never leaked until I hooked it up to a modern (‘70s) cooling system Quote
9 foot box Posted December 14, 2019 Report Posted December 14, 2019 (edited) Stant sells a 10308, with a lever to release pressure and a 10208, that is a regular cap. Both 4 lb. Or a 10203, that is a non-pressure cap. As an edit. The earlier radiators with the larger flange, use an R-4 cap. Edited December 17, 2019 by 9 foot box 1 1 Quote
bkahler Posted December 14, 2019 Report Posted December 14, 2019 12 hours ago, Radarsonwheels said: My heater core never leaked until I hooked it up to a modern (‘70s) cooling system If I remember right my 51 is a non pressurized system so I assuming the heaters sold during that time frame were designed for no pressure. I can see where a modern cooling system would cause it to leak. How did you resolve the problem? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 14, 2019 Report Posted December 14, 2019 I have always had zero pressure caps or leave them slightly loose. This to help prevent future core pressure damage. Never have had a boil over. I think in 1951 4lbs was the start of pressure caps. Quote
Radarsonwheels Posted December 14, 2019 Report Posted December 14, 2019 4 hours ago, bkahler said: If I remember right my 51 is a non pressurized system so I assuming the heaters sold during that time frame were designed for no pressure. I can see where a modern cooling system would cause it to leak. How did you resolve the problem? It held for a few hundred miles then started weeping. I pulled the whole heater and covered the holes in the firewall with blue painter’s tape ? The big motor keeps it warm enough in there with the windows up despite all my insulating for now. The long term plan is to resto-mod the stock heater box with a 12v fan and either a new core or new tubes and fins furnace brazed to the original tanks. I do want a defroster hose to the windshield and a working heater would be spiffy too. Quote
bkahler Posted December 14, 2019 Report Posted December 14, 2019 1 hour ago, Radarsonwheels said: It held for a few hundred miles then started weeping. I pulled the whole heater and covered the holes in the firewall with blue painter’s tape ? The big motor keeps it warm enough in there with the windows up despite all my insulating for now. The long term plan is to resto-mod the stock heater box with a 12v fan and either a new core or new tubes and fins furnace brazed to the original tanks. I do want a defroster hose to the windshield and a working heater would be spiffy too. Hmm, now you have me wondering what cap I should have for my 51. Time for some research! Brad 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 14, 2019 Report Posted December 14, 2019 I have a note in my book that the pressure system was introduced to PLYMOUTH in mid 1950 and was rated at 4lbs through the 1952 model year....the 53/54 was rated 7lbs...I do not have a truck manual for these same years....I therefore default to the Plymouth car for my recommendations. 1 1 Quote
JBNeal Posted December 16, 2019 Report Posted December 16, 2019 (edited) from what I can glean from my parts book, there are two radiators listed: one for Bs & Cs, and another for Cs & Ds, for B-1, B-2, B-3 and B-4 trucks. There are also two radiator caps specified: one for B-1 & B-2 (usually a galvanized cap with a non-rubber gasket), and another for B-3 & B-4 (modern style cap with rubber gasket). The radiators listed in the parts book both specify the B-3 & B-4 radiator cap...so it appears the truck cooling systems from '48-'53 are not pressurized... See Radiator Identification for Non-Pressurized Systems Edited December 18, 2019 by JBNeal added link Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted December 16, 2019 Author Report Posted December 16, 2019 Today a radiator technic withdrew three leaks on my pu radiator. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) Aren't B1 B2 the larget non pressurized rad caps? B3 and 4 being smaller and hold low pressure? Edited December 19, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya Spell check Quote
bkahler Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 2 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Aren't B1 B2 the larger mon mlm pressurized rad caps? B3 and 4 being smaller and can hold pressure? When I got my 51 B3 back in 1996 it had a non-pressurized cap on it. Also the radiator has the little dome or cap on the top that has a tube running down to the ground. I believe that also indicates a zero pressure system. Brad 1 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) I have a 1272446..yes a 1272446 in my 52 pu... I cannot find that Odd number ...it has the small cap no dome and can be pressurized though I don't pressure it as it has a tiny seep leak. I hopefully will be putting a NOS 1272945 radiator in it soon that a friend has located. Edited December 17, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya Wrong part number... corrected Quote
bkahler Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) 3 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I have a 1372446..yes a 1272446 in my 52 pu... I cannot find that Odd number ...it has the small cap no dome and can be pressurized though I don't pressure it as it has a tiny seep leak. I hopefully will be putting a NOS 1272945 radiator in it soon that a friend has located. Now you have me wondering, where'd you find the part number on the radiator?! Edited December 17, 2019 by bkahler Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) Right on the rear passenger side of the tank in 1/2" raised numbers. #1272446. Edited December 17, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
ggdad1951 Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 if memory serves, the rad weep line is BELOW the seal area of the cap....making it a non-pressurized system regardless of the cap you put on it. Quote
bkahler Posted December 17, 2019 Report Posted December 17, 2019 10 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Right on the rear passenger side of the tank in 1/2" raised numbers. #1272446. Now you have me curious. I'll have to look at mine this evening...... Quote
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