Tim's multi-year engine odyssey

[lostviking]

I got a T112 serial numbered engine along with my truck, that is supposed to be the original motor. I'm working on getting a build card from Chrysler that will include the engine serial number.

 

I've removed the head (one broken bolt) and the manifolds previously. Today I pulled off the timing cover, and the wife and I did a lot of scrapping of "stuff" from the exterior. Actually she did most of that today, which surprised me greatly. I think she's really getting into having an old truck. We did take another drive today before starting

 

Anyway the reason I took the timing chain off was to see if the crank would turn. To my delight, without much effort at all it did. I've been squirting WD40 into the bores since I pulled the head. The bores measure 3.25 without much ridge at all. Maybe .010! With the factory silver paint and the bore I'm starting to think that this is a factory motor, without too many miles. The size makes it a 218 so it might actually be the numbers matching motor after all. That would be awesome.

 

I'm going to continue cleaning the exterior and squirting the valves and lifter area, to see if I can get the valves free. As usual it's a goo filled mess in there right now, so at least it's not rusty right? I'll start loosening the adjusters and see if things come loose.

 

I've mentioned the motor in the truck right now is a 230 from a 58 D100. It runs fine and I have no immediate need to change the motor. Hence this being a multi-year project. The really cool part, is there was a rebuilt transmission included in the deal hanging off the rear of the motor. Clutch and flywheel weren't new but who caress. That means I have a spare bell housing and trans.

 

The block is the only really important part of this story. So long at there are no hidden surprises, I'll be using it along with the 230 parts in the current mill for the eventual drive train. Nothing too far from stock, but no reason to give up displacement in my book.

 

Plenty of other things to touch up on the truck, though nothing major. The previous owner did a nice enough job, but there are things that do need a higher level of quality. The paint has runs, there is bare metal in places under the dash, the welts between the fenders and body are not the right parts, or even rubber...I want it all done just so. I see a lot of fun in my future, as well as a lot of learning on these old trucks.

Edited October 19, 2019 by lostviking

[lostviking]

Slacked off the valve adjustments yesterday. Only one lifter was slightly stuck in it's bore. Tapped the wrench lightly with a 2x4 piece a couple times, back and forth. Now nice and loose. I've been keeping it wet with WD40 all through that area. I put the timing gear back on the cam, but it won't budge yet. I'm going to remove as many of the springs and lifters as I can and go from there. Really just assessing the engine right now, but it's fun to take it apart. Won't be rebuilding it for a long time yet.

If I get the whole thing broken down, I might send the block out though. Have it cleaned, checked for cracks and find out for sure what the minimum overbore is.

Edited October 27, 2019 by lostviking

[lostviking]

Got the cam moving yesterday! Some of the valves are stuck in their guides, but some move up and down. I'll keep the rest wet with WD40. I've got time, it's not like I'm getting ready to rebuild it right away.

[John Rogers]

I have had really great luck loosening up rusty parts and such with PB Blaster. I used to use WD40 on rusty fasteners etc until someone on the Wheel Horse garden tractor forum told me about PB Blaster.  It works a LOT better than WD40 did. It comes in a spray can just like WD40 .   A couple of weeks ago I had some door hinge pins on a B2C that I picked up a month ago which were stuck big time .I sprayed them good and let them sit for a few days. A few days later I was able to tap all 4 of them out with a small ball peen no problem.I just thought I would pass it on in case you want to give it a try.

                        John 

Edited November 7, 2019 by John Rogers

[kencombs]

12 hours ago, John Rogers said:

I have had really great luck loosening up rusty parts and such with PB Blaster. I used to use WD40 on rusty fasteners etc until someone on the Wheel Horse garden tractor forum told me about PB Blaster.  It works a LOT better than WD40 did. It comes in a spray can just like WD40 .   A couple of weeks ago I had some door hinge pins on a B2C that I picked up a month ago which were stuck big time .I sprayed them good and let them sit for a few days. A few days later I was able to tap all 4 of them out with a small ball peen no problem.I just thought I would pass it on in case you want to give it a try.

                        John 

PB Blaster is very good.  Most any penetrating oil will be better than WD40.  That is not what it is designed to do, it is a Water Displacement tool.  Works great to dry and protect damp parts not so good at penetrating or loosening stuck/rusty parts.  Personally, I use ATF, sometimes thinned with a solvent.  Cheap and works.

Edited November 7, 2019 by kencombs

[RobertKB]

I like using PB Blaster as well. I have had great luck with it unfreezing parts that are stuck or frozen in place.

[Los_Control]

My best use for wd40 is a cleaner.

I love using it in my air tools. Add some wd40 and then run the tool and run the tool and blow out what you just added, do this a few times and it cleans out all the old gummed up oil in the tool over the years.

Then add fresh clean air tool oil. The tool will have power just like it was brand new again.

 

Same when people claim I sprayed wd40 on my old ford door hinges and works like new again, I swear by wd40!

They just cleaned all the old grime off the hinges, now they are working like they should, now grease them.

 

wd40 is a good cleaner in my opinion.

[lostviking]

There are a lot more WD40 products than the original one. I also like to use it as a cleaner. What I've been using however is WD40 rust release penetrant. https://www.walmart.com/ip/WD-40-SPECIALIST-RUST-RELEASE-PENETRANT-SPRAY/19887414?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=282&adid=22222222227025385401&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=62687841648&wl4=pla-89022265728&wl5=9031337&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838817&wl11=online&wl12=19887414&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQiAno_uBRC1ARIsAB496IWE_37tY39aQt9gISiG_DZe3kWHs0valvN4GTgV1bjAOwipJ9cCwhMaAsiHEALw_wcB

 

Works very well.

[ggdad1951]

BP Blaster is great, but for the tough stuff I break out the AeroKroil.

[cavisco1]

Most of the time I use PB Blaster, but for the tough ones I've had good luck with Seafoam DeepCreep.

 

[lostviking]

Another mile sto..er step today. I picked up a KD-700 spring compressor off ebay and it got here yesterday. Today I put on some gloves and went elbow deep in the muck. I was able to get all the valves, springs, retainers and keepers off (lost one into the oil pan, missed plugging a hole). Since I've been keeping the valves wet, they all came out pretty easily. The more I see, the more I believe the 63K is the actual mileage on this motor. The faces of the valves have some build up, but the stems and even the rear of most are very clean. You can still read the lettering on them.

The lifters, for now, are a different story. I assume they come out just like any other lifter, but they all seem to have some gunk built up on them. I hosed the lifters down again with some more WD40 and stopped for the day. I'll probably dip the parts in carb dip I've had for some time and only done a couple carbs in. Then again I've got a spare carb and I'll probably do it first, before I destroy the dip. Don't know yet.

LOL, three pairs of gloves and half a roll of paper towels.

 

OK, now know the lifters need to come out the bottom...after the cam comes out. I guess I'll need to get an engine stand so I can flip it. Don't have a bench I want this dirty girl laying on

Edited January 1, 2020 by lostviking
Did some reading

[lostviking]

Another good day in the garage. I'm still waiting for my engine stand to get here, but that isn't stopping me. I got the cam out today by holding the lifters up with wire or gunk, depending on the lifter. After the cam was out I pushed the lifters down into the pan. Only had the one just to the front of the fuel pump hang up on the crank, but that was easy to move around through the hole.

Cam has light surface rust on the lobes, but little to no wear. More and more looking like a very low mileage engine.

[lostviking]

Wow, been quite awhile...but I finally have some more progress to report. I got the engine, sans head which I previously removed...and some other small items, on the engine stand. I was then able to pull the oil pan, flip it over and go at the crank. Every thing came apart fairly easily, with one exception. The oil transfer line. Being an occasional idiot, I didn't put a wrench on the fitting in the block. The first one came apart so easily, I didn't even think about it. Bad idea. On the second one, the compression fitting was turning with some force...when I noticed it was the fitting in the block that was actually turning. I twisted the tubing. AAAAAAAA. I'll have to bend and flare a new one when it goes back together, or just use the one in my other motor. Which is more likely.

Anyway on to good stuff. Inspecting the bearings, I remain convinced that this motor never had more than around 60K on it. There is almost zero wear on any bearing. I think the truck got parked and just sat too long. The previous owner would have been surprised if he had rebuilt this motor. But he didn't want to spend the $3K, so he bought a good running engine and swapped instead.

That makes my desire for a numbers matching rebuild easier. I of course need to have the block inspected for cracks I can't see. I don't have the best vision anymore, and even if I did you all know that magnaflux testing is a must.

I still need to get a ridge breaker to remove the pistons. That .005 or slightly larger ridge at the top of the cylinders is enough to grab the rings, and I don't want to take the chance of causing any damage trying to force them past it.

I'll get the pistons out and then send the block to be refreshed. I won't bother with the crank or rods, those will end up in someone else's motor eventually. I fully intend to rape the 230 for it's crank and rods and use my block.

That's it for today. Since it's my only truck, I'll be using the 46 to take the block to a machine shop. Have to avoid the freeway speeds, but I can get there and back on side streets.

[lostviking]

Ridge reamer gets here tomorrow. Pistons coming out...but I better get some WD40. I think the wife would kill me if I used PB Blaster inside again. Picked up a nice on off ebay for $35, it's the one Snap-On sells for about $100. If the cutter needs attention, I'll just take it to work and put a new edge on it.

[lostviking]

OK, finally got the tool. The USPS failed badly, but it eventually got here. Two days late on a priority mail postage...they kept saying they didn't have access to deliver...to my house, no fence. It was in my mailbox when they finally delivered.

 

Anyway, got a few minutes today to work on getting the ridge out of at least one cylinder. Honey do will be curtailing any further efforts today.

 

After I got the slug out, which was fun. The tool needed to be taken apart, cleaned and reassembled correctly. Just follow the directions. Anyway, I remeasured the bore using my digital caliper. Yes, not the best tool, but I'm only asking for a close measurement right now. What I'm getting is stock (3.25) + .003 to .008 in the area at the top I ran the ridge reamer over. I don't have the best location for doing this, but I just wanted to see what I had done. The larger reading, +.008 was when I had to measure and then pull the caliper because I couldn't see the face while it was in the bore. I could have moved the engine stand, but I was all cleaned up when I thought of this, and figured I was close enough. I measured at several points around the bore. Mostly I saw +.005.

 

Remember me saying I thought the 64K on the OD was the actual mileage? Well...seems pretty likely based on the minimal wear I've found on everything in this engine.

 

Good day. Everyone enjoy your weekend, and get greasy.

[lostviking]

Spent some time this morning doing the remaining five cylinders. Pretty easy with the tool. Measured the bores at the top, because I do not have a bore mic, and saw similar results. All of the bores seem to be close enough to maybe get by with a .010 overbore. Won't be sure until I take it to a machine shop to be reconditioned.

 

When I do I'll have them do everything needed. Tank it, inspect for cracks, replace the valve seats/guides as wear dictates. Install new cam bearings and freeze plugs. At that point it will have to sit until I'm ready to pull the other engine. I need the crank and rods. Nothing wrong with the ones I have, but they are 218 and I want to put her back together as a 230.

 

While I'm at it I'll have the head shaved to get up to the higher compression of later engines. Nothing fancy. If I find information (haven't looked yet) on any port work I might do a bit of shaping. I can't imagine that would be much more than a radius job. Probably not worth the effort. This is going to be a single carb engine, but I think I'll put headers on it just because. That and a PVC upgrade.

 

One thing I'm still toying with. I have several oil filter bodies. I'm thinking about reworking one to hold a modern oil filter. I don't think it would be too difficult, but I haven't done any CAD work yet to see how it would fit.

 

More to follow.

[DJ194950]

Search on this forum for "spin on oil filters " or just "adding a filter" should bring up what Many other have done. Many came with  no filter and people wanted to add one and keep it simple. Factory added filters with spin on filter late in the production years, almost all Industrial Flat sixes had them. Used to work on many old Mopar flat 6's in the 70's-80's in forklifts with the spin on filter!

 

DJ

[lostviking]

Thank you, but what I aim to do is add one without detracting for the original appearance. I want it hidden from view, and original looking.

[JBNeal]

additional information - Bypass Spin-On Oil Filter 

[lostviking]

3 hours ago, JBNeal said:

additional information - Bypass Spin-On Oil Filter 

Please read the above post. I would never do that to my 100% original truck.

[JBNeal]

Please look at the information in the link and subsequent posts in that thread...it has some details that can be used to hide a remote bypass oil filter to keep the engine area looking near-original...

[lostviking]

I don't know how much plainer I can put this. Thank you, but I'm not interested in near original. Please stop.

[JBNeal]

That's a big 10-4...assistance withdrawn ?

[lostviking]

On 6/23/2020 at 3:26 AM, JBNeal said:

That's a big 10-4...assistance withdrawn ?

Thanks for trying to help, and thank you for dropping it. I was probably a bit harsh, but I was also very specific that I would not alter the truck from it's 100% original appearance. Hiding a modern filter inside of the original canister does that, but anything external to the canister is not. Near is not exact.

 

Thanks for your understanding.