keithb7 Posted November 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 Experimenting with rigid fuel line and hose here. I tried a couple of different approaches with hard fuel line. Not knowing what stock looks like here, I have come up with this concoction. I think I am as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible. I’m open to comments and other suggestions. Thx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worden18 Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 2 minutes ago, keithb7 said: Experimenting with rigid fuel line and hose here. I tried a couple of different approaches with hard fuel line. Not knowing what stock looks like here, I have come up with this concoction. I think I am as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible. I’m open to comments and other suggestions. Thx. Well, that looks good to me Keith. I don't see any reason why that wouldn't be just fine. If you're feeling crafty you could always put together an aluminum heat plate that helps block the manifold even more. Just throwing that out there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobb Horn Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 There was a heat shield available for these cars also. None of my 37 or 38s have one. I will try to find a photo of my original fuel line at the fuel pump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, keithb7 said: Experimenting with rigid fuel line and hose here. I tried a couple of different approaches with hard fuel line. Not knowing what stock looks like here, I have come up with this concoction. I think I am as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible. I’m open to comments and other suggestions. Thx. It may be just the way the light is falling on the hose....but is the hose too large for the steel tubing? Is the hose just slipped over the 90? You want the proper sizing here to prevent an air leak that could kill the ability of the pump to pull a vacuum. The 90* fitting isn''t doing you any favors...can it be exchanged for a straight fitting so you will have a straighter shot to the pump? You can get a reverse flare fitting for the 90 that can then be adapted to a barb for the hose. Or...just buy the correct pre-made hose from Bernbaum. Edited November 2, 2019 by Sam Buchanan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 Good eye @Sam Buchanan. Hose is a little large. Going drop it down a size. I assumed the 90* fitting was stock so I have been working with it. I’ll see what other fitting options I can find. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 2 hours ago, keithb7 said: Good eye @Sam Buchanan. Hose is a little large. Going drop it down a size. I assumed the 90* fitting was stock so I have been working with it. I’ll see what other fitting options I can find. Thanks. There is no need for the steel tube you fabbed.....just run rubber hose all the way to the pump. Back the brass reverse flair fitting out of the pump and replace it with a barbed fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 (edited) Thanks @Sam Buchanan I will shop around and see if I can locate some options for fittings. I spent a little more time this afternoon on wiring. I installed a quad-bank fuse panel on the firewall. As seen below. I am experimenting and learning as I go. It’s my first time at this and having fun. Reviving, not restoring at this point. This fuse panel is hot, un-switched. I installed an 8 AWG wire right off the starter switch up to the fuse buss. I ran the horn off it. Before, the horn was anemic and dull. Now its bright, peppy, and alive. I am planning to run both high and low headlight relays off this fuse panel as well. Separate relays and fuses for each circuit. In an effort to get bright lights. Final fourth fuse I’ll likely for the fog lamps. These lamps and horn are now by-passed from the ammeter. I suppose if wanted, I could run the 8 AWG feed wire from the back of the ammeter. Then they all feed off there, and are measured. Will consider. I plan to wrap all wires in loom once layout is complete. Edited November 4, 2019 by keithb7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 (edited) Rear tail lamp treasures found. No solder to be seen. No wire covering left. Twist, black tape, & fingers crossed I reckon. More progress tonite replacing all wires with new! Rear tail lenses appear to be glass. I’m impressed. Edited November 5, 2019 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 9 hours ago, keithb7 said: Rear tail lamp treasures found. No solder to be seen. No wire covering left. Twist, black tape, & fingers crossed I reckon. More progress tonite replacing all wires with new! Rear tail lenses appear to be glass. I’m impressed. I believe all plymouths had glass until the second series 49s came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2019 (edited) The rear tail lamp assembly was fun to get apart. I’ll bet it was 81 years ago that the last time the hardware was turned. Plenty rusted. I used a Dremel to get inside the housing and cut the bolts out. Cleaned it all up with a media blaster. Will be primed for now and re-assembled. Edited November 11, 2019 by keithb7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2019 (edited) I’ve been plucking away at wiring. All the removed wires I have been replacing, I’ve been tossing in a bag. I glanced at the bag tonight and thought, the pile of wires grew somehow! A few wires replaced here and there, turns into quite a bit. I guess by now I could have just bought a new wire harness kit. Then I thought, what fun would that be though? I’ve had a real hoot making my own. Tracing the old wiring diagram, scratching my head. Adding and improving. I am getting to know the car very well. A bond is developing! ? Edited November 11, 2019 by keithb7 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2019 I can appreciate that these little updates may be boring for those following along. I assure you, it’s riveting on this end! ? These small details that are needed and make it so rewarding. Lamp and lenses re-assembled with all new 12 ga wire. Heat shrink. Stainless steel hardware. New rivets back in place. New home-cut rubber mounting gaskets. New ground wires. We have bright rear running and brake lights! I found a screen door spring at Home Depot should do very well as a replacement. The wires slide up the center of the spring to shield it from road debris, mud etc. Original spring very rusty and brittle, breaking up. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Larson Posted November 12, 2019 Report Share Posted November 12, 2019 4 hours ago, keithb7 said: I can appreciate that these little updates may be boring for those following along. I assure you, it’s riveting on this end! ? These small details that are needed and make it so rewarding. Lamp and lenses re-assembled with all new 12 ga wire. Heat shrink. Stainless steel hardware. New rivets back in place. New home-cut rubber mounting gaskets. New ground wires. We have bright rear running and brake lights! I found a screen door spring at Home Depot should do very well as a replacement. The wires slide up the center of the spring to shield it from road debris, mud etc. Original spring very rusty and brittle, breaking up. It's good to feel accomplishments! What is the spring for exactly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted November 12, 2019 Report Share Posted November 12, 2019 It puts pressure on a screen door to close it after the door has been opened . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Larson Posted November 12, 2019 Report Share Posted November 12, 2019 2 minutes ago, Jerry Roberts said: It puts pressure on a screen door to close it after the door has been opened . I'm well aware of how a screen door spring works ? I'm just wondering what it has to do with this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted November 12, 2019 Report Share Posted November 12, 2019 1 minute ago, tjlarson88 said: I'm well aware of how a screen door spring works ? I'm just wondering what it has to do with this project. As the man said , it shields from road debris and mud . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2019 (edited) See spring here. This is looking up inside the rear fender well. The rear light mounts to the fender. The wiring for the light, goes thru the fender. Goes inside spring seen here. It is routed to the main frame. The hole on the top right you see is for the fuel tank filler spout. Rubber grommet is seen. Tank going back in soon. Edited November 16, 2019 by keithb7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2019 (edited) An interesting point. I looked up the date code on the Good-Year bias tires on the car. (4 ply 6.00-16) Tube type. They are dated at 1961 and 1963. Likely right about the time Murray, the previous owner bought the car. I like these skinny style tires. They look great on the old cars. I plan to order new radials if I can get ‘em. Blackwall suits the poverty-caps with beauty rings. See the rear fender lamp and the spring in use this photo too. Edited November 12, 2019 by keithb7 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2019 Some of my favorite tools right there! Fuel tank going back in. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted November 14, 2019 Report Share Posted November 14, 2019 (edited) Those springs or at least a variation of them are/were used for the wiring to the headlights on my Oz 1940 Dodge, they , the spring covering started just past the headlight wiring connector beside the radiator on the Oz passenger inner fender panel and covered the wiring all the way to the inside of the passenger side headlight bucket....the wires for the Oz drivers side passed underneath the stock radiator upper tank then dissappeared into another length of spring on the Oz drivers side of the radiator then out a gap in the Oz drivers side inner fender panel and into the drivers side headlight bucket where they exited the spring and connected up to the headlight plug..........I've still got the springs but no longer use them when I rewired the car 40 yrs ago..........and as the taillights for the 1940 models are body mounted there was no need for the springs on the rear...........and I found that this pic I took shows the wiring fuse and relay box I made thats located under the dash, everything goes thru this box and I even made a wiring diagram thats glued to the other side of the lid that you can see, with the Rod Run badges on it, I used a couple of 1970's production car wiring harnesses and pulled them apart, cleaned up the wires and reused them so I have proper coloured wires and connectors including a fusable link.........so far 40 yrs later no problems.............lol...............andyd Edited November 14, 2019 by Andydodge more info 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2019 (edited) Nice work @Andydodge! I may get there too eventually. I am learning as I go. Gaining experience and confidence. I looked at my firewall/cowl and foot room. I had second thoughts about bringing everything inside, placing a fuse panel down there, then wiring everything back out to all the connections. Still keeping things fairly simple for my first, revival project. I am am grinning tonight over the whole rear end lighting up! All new wiring and refurbished lamps. Nice to have a proper license plate light! I was digging through all my spare parts. It seemed I only had 12v bulbs that would fit in the license plate lamp socket. Quite dull for sure. Then at last I found a 6V floating around in the bowels of the trunk in my Chrysler. Worked great. Nice and bright! The right lamp in the pic has a lower candle power bulb. You can see its duller than the left lamp. The left is the proper 1158 bulb. I have my doubts about finding any 6V bulbs in town here. So far no other 6V electrical parts seem to be stocked anywhere here. We shall prevail! Edited November 14, 2019 by keithb7 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted November 14, 2019 Report Share Posted November 14, 2019 Keith.........hey, it only took me 3 or 4 goes to get it right.........originally I replaced bits and pieces of the wiring at different times then eventually just pulled the lot out and started again from scratch...back then, in the mid 70's there really wasn't any aftermarket wiring kits, well at least here in Oz.........I used to be a real pest to the local auto electricians, regularly calling in asking how this or that should be wired up.........also bringing the car to them to check as well..............I must admit that when I made and installed the wiring under the dash I didn't think that I would get old.........I'm 65 now.......lol.....its an effort now to get under there to check things if needed.....was in my 20's when I originally did all this so you learn.....lol..............its good to get the lights working and giving a good, strong light at the rear...........regards from Oz.............andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted November 15, 2019 Report Share Posted November 15, 2019 On 11/13/2019 at 9:34 PM, keithb7 said: I have my doubts about finding any 6V bulbs in town here. So far no other 6V electrical parts seem to be stocked anywhere here. We shall prevail! If there is a tractor parts supplier near you , they may have the 6 volt bulbs . There are still many old 6 volt tractors in use . ebay is good for 6 volt bulbs too . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted November 15, 2019 Report Share Posted November 15, 2019 A couple of years ago, I bought 1158 bulbs at Canadian Tire. Worth your while to see if they still carry them. Possibly check online if you don't have a store near you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxime Posted November 15, 2019 Report Share Posted November 15, 2019 Hey I bought this one last mouth and work fine https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cafr.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232525039823 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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