Hound dog hauler

[JBNeal]

additional information - Door Check Operation

Edited October 16, 2019 by JBNeal
revised link

[johnsartain]

DCM's bump stops are fairly inexpensive, whether you buy just the rubber bumper or the whole stop. I'm a cheap skate though, I took a hole say and cut a couple of disks out of the sidewall of an old tire  I had laying about the took a wood chisel and cut the slots out to go over the arm, I then silicone then together and slipped them over the arm. Original bumpers and the ones they sell are just rubber, the ones I cut have nylon reinforcement so they won't crack and fall off. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

these are inexpensive...EXCEPT FOR THE SHIPPING HERE...WOW

 

they are the right profile and can be a bit thick in some apps so trim to length...I suggest looking for these at a swap meet where they have vendor for the older Ford cars attending...

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Check-Arm-Rubber-Bumper-Replacement-Cylindrical-Style-Ford-32-29430-1/113270911459?hash=item1a5f78f1e3:g:yIkAAOSwnFpbqcHn

[Los_Control]

There we go, no spark. Was a few days getting here, late in the afternoon, gave it a shot and no go.

 

Obvious because I give carb either and no change, I crank it over and see no spark at the points.

I run a test light to the coil and see it has power .... I use a screwdriver in the dist to spread the points and get a spark off of the body of points &  dist shaft,. not where it should be.

 

I think I want to go ahead and pull the distributor, install new points condenser, check the wiring and vacuum advance, install a new coil while at it. Current coil is blue and makes me think of ford 12 volt.

 

This ol girl is cleaning up nice though, may even take her to a dance if she gets a bath  

 

[MBF]

You may want to dress up the contacts of the points, and check to see if that flexible wire that goes from the points to the dist housing (and then eventually up to trigger the coild ) isn't shorting out.

 

[Los_Control]

10 hours ago, MBFowler said:

You may want to dress up the contacts of the points, and check to see if that flexible wire that goes from the points to the dist housing (and then eventually up to trigger the coild ) isn't shorting out.

 

I used a screwdriver to open the points, and ran some 120 grit sand paper in them to clean them up ... is my carpenter showing?

Opening the points while the key was still on, is where I saw the spark off of the screwdriver from the body of the points, but not the contact where it should be.

This could be normal.

I think I should be able to manually open and close the points and see a spark at the contacts?

 

This makes me want to pull the distributor and disassemble clean/oil it on the bench, and check the ground and vacuum advance while there.

 

I also wonder if the condensor could be bad. It was obvious that in the past someone had connected the battery negative ground, who knows maybe they even converted the electrical over to negative ground. It does have 3 cab lights on top, a cigar lighter and at one point it had a after market radio installed, and they installed a dome light under the drivers sun visor.

Just saying there was some electrical work done on it in the past.

Maybe I now have it connected wrong, I am only smart enough to put it back the way it came  originally

 

Today I will work over the ignition system .... wife is being pretty patient, she kinda wants the kitchen finished and bought new curtains for it Saturday.

Goal is to be able to start the truck and move it out from under the carport, is where I set up my saws and work table when I play carpenter.

 

[Jomani]

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

Wife is being pretty patient...

 

Can’t ask for much more than that.

 

If you are concerned about the rest of your wiring harness, I would disconnect everything on the engine side, set the battery close enough to run a jumper to the coil and starter. You don’t need to worry about the charging system or any accessories to get it running. By eliminating the ignition switch and wiring harness, you will know exactly what you are working with. All it needs to run is power to the coil, a good ground to the engine, and power to the starter to turn it over.

 

This is a very simple video that explains the process.

 

 

 

 

[Los_Control]

Nice video, informative.

I actually spent a extra 1.5 days cleaning up the wiring before trying to start it Wiring needs replaced but it works good enough to start it and run it around the yard..

 

Double checked my work, I have juice running right up to the points. I now have the distributor on the bench, pretty cruddy with old grease on the outside, looks very good on the inside, vacuum appears to be working, the wiring is in good condition and wont change a thing.

The points are in good condition with minor wear but they meet flat, and they are corroded, my light sandpaper was simply not enough.

Also they look to be gaped a little wide, guessing I want about 17 and these look to be 20 or more ... have to look it up.

I also found the wire from coil to dist, copper stranded and most the strands were broke, only a few strands connected and a simple twist and fell off .... could be I had enough juice to trigger the test light but not enough for the points?

 

Also it does not have a stock coil on it, and someone painted it ford blue .... am guessing it is a 12 volt coil.

Also they had it wired backwards for a negative ground system.

I do not think the coil issues would prevent it from starting, but it may not run as well as I would like, so replacing it also.

 

Off to the parts store, I doubt I can get the plug wires I want, something close to original that you run through the coil bracket and then crimp the ends on.

Maybe someone has ideas on that.

Need feeler gage

6 volt coil

points / condenser

 

cap and rotor looks almost new

[Dave72dt]

You can get a universal set, either silicone or wire core, clip the ends and boots off if needed and crimp on new ends.  EC makes new ends, straight or 90 ( CarQuest line code )

[Los_Control]

Wasted some time today on the welder, first time it has been used and is broken, have to send it back to be repaired.

My goal was to weld a couple small bolts onto the coil mounting bracket, to replace the rusted up broken existing ones. Turns out the new welder overheats as soon as I pull the trigger  

I did manage to get a couple tacks in place and may hold for awhile until I get the welder back.

 

4:00 pm and just now going through the dizzy, probably no painting the kitchen tomorrow  ?

 

[Los_Control]

woot

woot woot woot

 

WOOOOOT!   

[Merle Coggins]

26 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

woot

woot woot woot

 

WOOOOOT!   

 

Got it running?

[Los_Control]

Yes, excuse my excitement, but when I put the dist back in and turned it over with a shot of starting fluid, took right off.

played with it some more and got the fuel pump to pick up gas from a gas can, then the carb sat there and leaked.

I let it sit for a bit and BS with the neighbour.

Came back and no leaks, and it started right up and ran for quite some time, the motor sounded good and was responsive, the gauges seem to work and it had good oil pressure, the temp I think will be a issue and going to hook a hose up to the flushing T I installed.

But yes, I can say that I have a good running 218.

 

All my neighbours may have a different opinion, with all the smoke running out the back door of my shop, I did fill the cylinders with atf and let soak for a few days before turning it over.

 

Tomorrow will be another day.

[Plymouthy Adams]

you neighbors should be paying you or at minimum thanking you for you efforts in mosquito abatement...….

[Los_Control]

8 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

you neighbors should be paying you or at minimum thanking you for you efforts in mosquito abatement...….

OMG you are correct .... not even thought abought that, mosquitos are terrible right now, maybe in the morning I can go to the shop and drink my coffee without being bugged 

[Los_Control]

I have to admit, the mosquito's  are thinned out today.

I have a over heating issue going on, I suspected I would after removing the valve for heater core and the T-stat housing. Just solid crud everywhere.

I did run it today for a hour or two with a garden hose connected, I can regulate the temp by the flow of the water hose. Turn off the water and in 5 min it is above 210 and boiling.

I did drive it and turned it around in the driveway, now the front end is sitting out side the garage door and not the rear end ... clutch feels good at 1 mph.

 

Basically phase 1 is over, I can start it and move it as needed. Now will spend more time on each area as needed.

 

Wife went shopping today and came home with 5 paint brushes .... think she is giving me a hint, I need to get the welder packaged up and sent back to be repaired.

After replacing the fan belt on the truck, I turned it around and then cleaned up the shop and ready to be a carpenter for a few days ..... damn .... this ol hound dog is cleaning up nice, wont take much to get her driving on the road at this point.

[Plymouthy Adams]

tell  her those brushes are not designed for a man's hand...….and if any of them are nylon....just toss them in the trash now and be done with it.....

[9 foot box]

  For my plug wires, I used Accel 4039B, I just googled the number and could buy now for $37,free ship. But they are blue. Taylor 70060 are black,$60, but doesn't have the straight dist. boots. So you have to source that, also.    

[Los_Control]

Thanks 9 foot box, I guess for now, I have a pretty new set of black 8 mm I took off my ot truck when I bought it. Was chasing a high speed miss and replaced everything on it, turned out to be the hei failing.

For now will just use them.

 

I got some painting done in the kitchen, while it dried I pulled the radiator .... is plugged solid. Lying on its back in the grass, fill through the upper rad outlet, it fills up and water comes out the upper outlet while it barely trickles out the bottom.

My arm chair commando advice, fill the system up with vinegar and drive it some .... this is so plugged can not drive it to warm it up, not sure how well it will work just sitting cold in the radiator this plugged.

I ask if others have a recommendation for a chemical that would be gentle on a 70 year old radiator?

 

Heading to the store to pick up a couple gallons of vinegar and try anyways.

[Los_Control]

I can say that vinegar works, after letting the radiator sit overnight, I flushed it with clean water and chunks of gunk came out, yucky brown water, but have improved flow.

I do not think or doubt it is 100% flow as needed, but a big improvement. I now want to install it back in and try again, see if it will stay cool long enough to fill the cooling system with vinegar and flush some more.

Same time, there is a lot of cleaning and painting to be done around the core support area that needs radiator removed to get to ....

 

Not exactly sure how well my painting will go, this will not be a trailer queen, and I will be driving it before spring.

So the plan is to get er did, move on with life with a smile, and if something needs to be re-addressed later, I have the rest of my life to get to it 

I bought a gallon of rust stop oil based enamel gloss black from Ace hardware.  Here in west Texas, is used a lot for industrial and farm equipment sitting out in the fields,. Sure it would be just fine on a old dodge pickup.

 

Was getting my welder ready to ship back to be repaired, disconnecting the gun from it and roll up the wire. That wire was stuck hard! I got it out, then bought a new roll of .035 wire, installed it and now welding like a total noober 

I bought .030 wire, thinking it would be better for light metal. I told the engineer over the phone I was running .030 wire and he did not think was a issue.

There is a wheel that can be turned around for smaller wire as it is set from the factory for 035, but 030 is so close it also should work ... seems not.

[9 foot box]

  As an alternative to vinegar, have you heard of citric acid being used for rust. It has no odor and  easily disposable, except the sediment from each flush.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

[Los_Control]

6 hours ago, 9 foot box said:

  As an alternative to vinegar, have you heard of citric acid being used for rust. It has no odor and  easily disposable, except the sediment from each flush.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have not heard of it, and is my first try with vinegar.

I want to state the obvious, The correct fix would be to take it to a radiator shop and have it repaired properly.

We all know that would get into a few hundred dollars and probably cheaper to by a new one for $350 or so.

In my parts stash, I have 2 more original radiators the condition unknown, when I get them here I can pick the best of the 3 and have it worked over by a professional as needed.

current goal is to check the condition of the motor, hoping the water distribution tube is not destroyed .

How about  some pics for a update, Yesterday was 2 weeks since I got it.

I talked earlier that I already bought a gallon of paint and a gallon of primer for the truck, playing around with the wire brush to remove the heavy rust, look at the beautiful paint hiding underneath. It is in pretty poor condition and bare metal in many places ..... At this point will hand wash and scrub, the rest of the rust off. Will be more time consuming to try to save it then to just repaint, but I want to see how good it is before destroying it.

[Los_Control]

I got the old grill guard cut off, down to grinding the welds off, the bumper has a twist in it, doing some figuring on how to un twist it.

The coil bracket was missing the stud on one side and other side had bad threads, I cut them off and welded some new studs on. I have a couple more in my parts stash.

Did a quick clean of the dash, the chrome is in good shape, the original speedo is all gummed up and jumpy, the po removed the speedo cable from it. I have a spare that is in nice condition I installed instead of the original. The gauges are in real poor condition and need attention, and new glass .... I super glued the glass back together, easier to use as a template.

[Los_Control]

not letting me upload photos for some reason, 2 more was going to share and they are 1.1 megs each and says only allowed to upload 3 meg ... try one more time.

Oh well maybe later still says they are too large, while I know they are not.

[Plymouthy Adams]

resize them in MS PAINT ..many of the newer cameras will not even allow me to default to the smaller format I prefer for the web forums and such...I guess they think everyone wants huge files.  Your camera may allow you to change your default.