Why are parts crap???

[austinsailor]

I'm going to bitch for a bit. It seems like at least half the parts I buy are crap. Either substandard, don't fit or other problems. Some can be used with mods, some either tossed as they come out of the box, or fail in shot order. 

 

New battery box cover for my B1B. Seems simple enough. What I got was a flat piece of sheet metal with 2 ribs rolled in it. No lip around it, no springs to hold it in place, isn't even trimmed to fit the opening. I have a bead roller, I could have done better.

 

vent seal. "2 shorter than the vent. Why??  

 

New gas pedal. - so poorly made, step down once and it bends. 

 

It just goes on, I could add dozens more. I'm sure everyone has similar problems.

 

in fairness, my wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring was exactly right in every aspect and well documented. The gas tank from Tanks, inc. worked well, although I wonder why they can't have a fill tube that requires no mods to the truck, since it is just a screw on fitting.

 

ok, I'll calm down now.

Edited May 25, 2018 by austinsailor

[knuckleharley]

I think a lot of it has to do with "it's a mail order world and they never see most of their customers". The "reproduction" radiator I bought for my 51 Ford 6 cylinder coupe came in with a neck the original 4 psi cap wouldn't fit,and the bottom radiator hose extension was shaped wrong. I had to cut it and use bent exhaust pipe to be able to use it. When I called the manufacturer to tell him about this and complain,he just said "Oh,yeah. We changed the necks to modern necks a while back,and a modern 16 psi cap will go right on it." When I told him I had bought it from him and paid him over 500 bucks for it BECAUSE it was advertised as an exact duplicate of the original and I wanted to run an original radiator cap,he just said "Sorry,we don't make those anymore."  When I told him about the lower hose and fuel pump conflict,he just laughed and told me I would have to modify it.

 

I used it is spite of this because the radiator came from a company on the left coast,and I live on the east coast. If he had been within a few hundred miles of me and laughed,he wouldn't be laughing any more until he got out of the hospital.

 

I COULD have sent it back to him and waiting for a refund and then ordered the 700 dollar radiator from The Brass Works,but I didn't want to wait another month or two before I could drive the car,so I used it,and am still mad about it.

 

It has been my experience in life that retailers that screw me do NOT laugh at me when I show up in person with a beef.

 

Edited May 25, 2018 by knuckleharley

[DrDoctor]

Knucklelharley,

   AMEN, Friend!!!!!

[Kevinb71]

Knuckle

I hear ya! It's just really sad that it takes that kind of interaction before somebody cares. The mail order thing is just going to keep making that worse. BUT it used to be that you could go to your local "radiator" shop and talk to the owner and because he knew you and would probably see you out at cruise night he cared whether it was right. He's gone now, working at Walmart or something like that.

[knuckleharley]

I

1 hour ago, Kevinb71 said:

Knuckle

I hear ya! It's just really sad that it takes that kind of interaction before somebody cares. The mail order thing is just going to keep making that worse. BUT it used to be that you could go to your local "radiator" shop and talk to the owner and because he knew you and would probably see you out at cruise night he cared whether it was right. He's gone now, working at Walmart or something like that.

I know. There is only one radiator shop I know of within 100 miles of me that is even willing to rod out or recore a radiator,and he only does it when he feels like it. You have to drop your radiator off,and then wait for him to call and tell you it is ready,and then make another round trip drive to get it. Maybe a week later,maybe 2 months later,depending on how much modern work he has to do.

I have heard rumors about a guy maybe 75 miles away that has a one man shop and prefers to work on older stuff that still does recores and rodding out,but nobody seems to be able to remember his or the shop name,and the closest I can get for directions is "someone better town x and town y,I forgot what road."

Driving me nuts. I have a 37 IHC PU that runs and drives perfectly,but the radiator core blew out and nobody even wants to look and see if they can get a replacement core. They just want to sell me a new one for 800 to 1,000 bucks.

[allbizz49]

PRC.....

[DJ194950]

A friend of mines 47Ply. Bus. Cpe. was slowly having slow crank start issues.

 

Testing showed either the battery or the starter was the culprit. Both were tested and turned out the battery ( a smaller but high crank output battery, not cheap, age is unknown ) was now scrap.

 

He spent the money for a new 12 volt Ultima battery (200.00) as the car was already 12v. conversion done when purchased.

 

Looked closely yesterday at the label on the top of the new battery. A Johnson Controls label was there. They are a world wide conglomerate of many types of products. Just the original designer/manufacturer  sold out.

 

Made in Mexico now.

 

Is the new owner, country of origin up to the previous reputation of quality?? Working very good for now, only a two year warranty.

 

Time will  tell.

 

DJ

 

 

 

[Flatie46]

Austin I and most everyone feels the same way you do and prob most have vented just like you have at some point.  I really, really hate to see Made in China or Taiwan on parts that I've bought.  I will and do pay more to avoid this because I have never ever seen reasonable quality when this has been on the box.  Often even parts made in the US are substandard in some way.  These old Mopars  were engineered and built with quality parts. It's a darn shame most of the stuff offered for them is half the quality of the original or less.  To get good parts you really have to jump through hoops and scrutinize  every last detail.

   

[Dodgeb4ya]

I only buy factory NOS or really nice used parts. Takes awhile but worth it.

I don't trust any after market parts as they always are not 100% correct fit or work like factory OE parts.

I do have the last Seattle radiator guy who will fix old radiators properly to exact like stock condition but the last one cost me $1700.00 for my truck?!

To me I'll pay the money for good parts and good work.... never for cheap Chinese crap!

[austinsailor]

Only NOS parts won't save you! I just installed the new, NOS, still in the box headlight switch in my B1B. The circuit breaker on it was

open, didn't work. Ended up taking the rusty one off the trash original switch to get going. The difference here was that the seller wouldn't know it was bad.  The seller of that batter box cover, however, could easily see it was crap.

 

Which of these breakers would you expect to be good?

[thebeebe5]

I get it.   Got a new replacement front motor mount that is most certainly made overseas.  It’s too wide by almost 1/4”....   tomorrow I’ll cut it in half and weld the top and bottom plates to the proper width.   I’d send it back, but I got it  9 months ago thinking my rebuild would go faster.    What a HOOT.  I should know by now I should just double my completion estimates for both time and money....  

[knuckleharley]

Guys,I ain't trying to rub it in and I even hate to admit it,but this thread has really cheered me up.

 

Here I was thinking it was just me.

[RobertKB]

10 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

I

I know. There is only one radiator shop I know of within 100 miles of me that is even willing to rod out or recore a radiator,and he only does it when he feels like it. You have to drop your radiator off,and then wait for him to call and tell you it is ready,and then make another round trip drive to get it. Maybe a week later,maybe 2 months later,depending on how much modern work he has to do.

I have heard rumors about a guy maybe 75 miles away that has a one man shop and prefers to work on older stuff that still does recores and rodding out,but nobody seems to be able to remember his or the shop name,and the closest I can get for directions is "someone better town x and town y,I forgot what road."

Driving me nuts. I have a 37 IHC PU that runs and drives perfectly,but the radiator core blew out and nobody even wants to look and see if they can get a replacement core. They just want to sell me a new one for 800 to 1,000 bucks.

 

Guess I am lucky. Live in a city of 100,000 and there is one radiator shop that will work on old radiators. His bread and butter is modern stuff but he has old cars and loves repairing or recoring old rads. He has done several for me. Always done quickly and for a price that makes you feel you stole it. Hate to think what happens when he retires. Not a lot of old time craftsmen left out there. 

[RobertKB]

2 hours ago, austinsailor said:

Only NOS parts won't save you! I just installed the new, NOS, still in the box headlight switch in my B1B. The circuit breaker on it was

open, didn't work. Ended up taking the rusty one off the trash original switch to get going. The difference here was that the seller wouldn't know it was bad.  The seller of that batter box cover, however, could easily see it was crap.

 

Which of these breakers would you expect to be good?

 

I often find the old rusty stuff works the best. Give it a clean, install, and good to go. Sometimes gotta relace and I prefer NOS or NROS made in Canada or US. Sometimes have to go new and then it's a crapshoot. 

[busycoupe]

7 hours ago, thebeebe5 said:

I get it.   Got a new replacement front motor mount that is most certainly made overseas.  It’s too wide by almost 1/4”....   tomorrow I’ll cut it in half and weld the top and bottom plates to the proper width.   I’d send it back, but I got it  9 months ago thinking my rebuild would go faster.    What a HOOT.  I should know by now I should just double my completion estimates for both time and money....  

I remember a discussion on the forum from several years ago.  Apparently there were two sizes of motor mount for different years. Perhaps you got the wrong one.  

[Dodgeb4ya]

Life restoring and maintaining old cars can be extremely frustrating at times.

Getting the correct quality parts is the major problem on most restorations.

I've worked in this antique car restoration business for years.......I'm glad retirement is only three months away.

[knuckleharley]

11 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Life restoring and maintaining old cars can be extremely frustrating at times.

Getting the correct quality parts is the major problem on most restorations.

I've worked in this antique car restoration business for years.......I'm glad retirement is only three months away.

What are you going to do then,start restoring motorcycles?

 

Speedboats?

 

Cushman scooters?

[pflaming]

I order some from Vintage Power Wagons, no problems so far. And since I had two rust bucket donor Suburbans, I had ample parts to retrieve and repurpose. More work but less money and better quality. I still have lots of duplicate parts, extra engine, transmission, rear axle, and many small boxes of small parts. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

I've got my collection of ten cars to keep going...and plenty of OE  parts for all of them.

I can focus 100%  on my stuff now.

[pflaming]

Dodgeb4ya, yes build an inventory before starting a build. I purchased enough spare parts to build at least two VW Bugs to have parts for my VW kit car build. 

[sser2]

14 hours ago, thebeebe5 said:

I get it.   Got a new replacement front motor mount that is most certainly made overseas.  It’s too wide by almost 1/4”....   tomorrow I’ll cut it in half and weld the top and bottom plates to the proper width.   I’d send it back, but I got it  9 months ago thinking my rebuild would go faster.    What a HOOT.  I should know by now I should just double my completion estimates for both time and money....  

I would stay away from new repro motor mounts. They are known to delaminate, and you understand the consequences of engine jumping off the front mount. Chrysler invented the process of bonding rubber to steel, which enabled the whole "Floating Power" thing. Quality and reliability of motor mount critically depends on using this process.

[pflaming]

15 minutes ago, sser2 said:

 I should know by now I should just double my completion estimates for both time and money....  

 

Double is very conservative both in time and money. Disassembly alone is much more time consuming than I ever considered. 

[Tom Skinner]

Vintage Power Wagons, a win. Good Parts. Knowledgeable. Fast Service

 

[allbizz49]

11 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

What are you going to do then,start restoring motorcycles?

 

Speedboats?

 

Cushman scooters?

What's wrong with that? I do them all except for cushmans. I try to build 1 nice bike every year. Occasionally an old boat. I do full on nut and bolt stuff though, not oakie rattle can restos. Good to take a break from cars every now and then. I even do vintage bicycles to fill in the gaps of time and space.

Edited May 27, 2018 by allbizz49

[knuckleharley]

11 hours ago, allbizz49 said:

What's wrong with that? I do them all except for cushmans. I try to build 1 nice bike every year. Occasionally an old boat. I do full on nut and bolt stuff though, not oakie rattle can restos. Good to take a break from cars every now and then. I even do vintage bicycles to fill in the gaps of time and space.

Nothing is wrong with it. I was just implying he wasn't going to stop working.