1952 Dodge B3B

[Saltrock]

[Saltrock]

[Saltrock]

[Saltrock]

[Brent B3B]

If it were me, I would say no on reusing the copper gasket...

and I would at the least lap the valves while your in it that far. 

 

but that is just me. 

[Saltrock]

32 minutes ago, Brent B3B said:

If it were me, I would say no on reusing the copper gasket...

and I would at the least lap the valves while your in it that far. 

 

but that is just me. 

Thanks Brent! My next move is taking the manifold off and getting into the valve case. See what kind of goodies are inside. 

 

Are the valves hard to remove and clean?

 

I just want to make sure they are closing properly and won't get stuck in the future. 

 

The six pictures with the piston are all each individual one. I see some horizontal marks on one of the pictures. 

 

Is that a big  deal?

 

Thank for any advice 

 

[ggdad1951]

yah, I'd never resuse a head gasket...cheaper insurance to put a new one in every time IMO than to have issues later to save a few bucks.

[Young Ed]

1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

yah, I'd never resuse a head gasket...cheaper insurance to put a new one in every time IMO than to have issues later to save a few bucks.

If you want to reuse it just for some testing spray it with silver paint and then go ahead and reuse. For long term I wouldn't reuse it. 

[Brent B3B]

10 hours ago, Saltrock said:

Are the valves hard to remove and clean?

 

I just want to make sure they are closing properly and won't get stuck in the future. 

 

The six pictures with the piston are all each individual one. I see some horizontal marks on one of the pictures. 

 

Is that a big  deal?

I didn't think the valves are hard to remove. be sure and stuff some paper towels or rags in the oil galleys before you start to keep the keepers from falling in the holes. I used a "c" clamp spring compressor

but other compressors will work also....... "C" clamp is just what I have

I suppose with the smaller clamp you may not need to take off the intake and exhaust manifolds..........

 

sorry, I am not the person to answer about the piston marks

[Saltrock]

Howdy Gents. 

 

Today I was going to pull my manifold apart. But I was experiencing rain. So I decided to take the inner panel over the front wheel off to get better access to my manifold and valve case. 

 

Small steps. I love working on this truck. Gives me a better understanding on what goes on under the hood. 

 

Still a greenhorn when it comes to mechanics.

 

 

 

 

Edited May 13, 2018 by Saltrock

[Saltrock]

On 5/6/2018 at 10:25 AM, The Oil Soup said:

The cooling system is low or no pressure.

Can someone please explain what he means?

[P15-D24]

31 minutes ago, Saltrock said:

Can someone please explain what he means?

Stock radiator cap is a non-pressure cap so the cooling system is not under pressure. 

[The Oil Soup]

The shop manual lists the radiator cap as non-pressurized until you get into the really large trucks. In actuality the original cap is set up to handle 4 1/2 lbs. I'm running a Stant 4 lb. cap with an aluminum radiator.

[Saltrock]

What is the best product to clean out the valve case? Brake cleaner? 

 

Thanks

Edited May 13, 2018 by Saltrock

[Merle Coggins]

Mineral spirits may break down the sludge better than brake clean. 

[Saltrock]

7 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

Mineral spirits may break down the sludge better than brake clean. 

Something like this, Merle? Apply with spray bottle?

 

Thanks again for your help

[Merle Coggins]

That should work. Also, pick up a parts cleaning brush at your local parts store. It’ll help scrub the nooks and crannies. 

 

[Saltrock]

Today I cleaned the top of the block. Got as much carbon I could off the top and on the cylinder walls. Still would like to do one more scrape and scrub. Looks a lot better. 

 

Next step is to take the manifold off and clean the valve case. 

[pflaming]

I once was exactly where you are, had to learn one bolt at a time, so don't stop. I would tap the bolt holes nice and clean before installing the head. Then blow them out clean with an air hose. Your looking great!! 

[Saltrock]

Hello Gentlemen. Today I attempted to remove the manifolds. I was semi successful in removing all bolts, accept the exhaust manifold part that attaches I believe to the exhaust pipe? These were a pain. Either I need a air gun, or us a wrench on the bottom, spin it till the wrench hits the block and try to screw from the top, or they are just going to snap. 

 

Also I'm concerned why these bolts look the way they do. Is there a bunch of corroded metal in my manifold bolt holes? Hope this isn't too big of an issue. 

[Saltrock]

[Brent B3B]

 

1 hour ago, Saltrock said:

in my opinion, don't try and save those bolts..... cut them or break them and replace them

[Merle Coggins]

Couple of observations...

 

1. I see 8 nuts, 2 bolts, and 2 studs that came out with the nuts. That equals 12. There should be 13, so I'm thinking you missed one.

 

2. The conical nuts/washers are installed incorrectly on the two studs shown. The cone side of the nut should fit into the cupped side of the thick washer.

 

3. To answer your question about the ends of the bolts... These bolts/studs go into the water jacket, so the ends have corroded off due to the coolant exposure. When you reassemble, use thread sealant on the bolts and studs. Not all go into the water jacket, but many of them do.

[Don Coatney]

This might or might not help.

 

[Jeff Balazs]

Re: Manifold and exhaust fasteners. I would recommend you replace with all new. Also you should chase all the threads into the block. Use sealant on any going into the water jacket. I have at times used Stainless steel fasteners at the exhaust pipe connections. They seem to remain usable longer for this application.

Hth, Jeff