Another 230 build thread

[tom'sB2B]

I’ve started the process of rebuilding the engine in my 1947 Dodge. I would like to use this thread to ask questions along the way when I can’t find the answer using the the search function. 

The reason for rebuilding this engine is that it had low compression and also the possibility of a cracked block or head.

When I bought the car.a year ago the PO mentioned it might have a cracked block (probably why he sold it so cheap). I brought it home pulled the head gasket and found the cylinders full of coolant. Thought maybe just a bad gasket.Cleaned out the coolant. Drained the pan. Replaced gasket. Drove it for a couple of months. Still had low compression. Would still blow gray smoke sometimes on accelerating. I have dreams of making this car into a reliable, long distance driving car. To rebuild the engine seems to be an inevitability. What the hell. I’m doin it!

 

[tom'sB2B]

So I pulled the engine over Christmas holiday. Not so easy by myself and on a hill

[tom'sB2B]

I spent the next couple weeks slowely disassembling, bagging and tagging.

[tom'sB2B]

Water distribution tube came out smoothly. Looks decent but will replace with new. Block was seriously gunked up

 

[knuckleharley]

10 minutes ago, tom'sB2B said:

Water distribution tube came out smoothly. Looks decent but will replace with new. Block was seriously gunked up

 

Looking at all the rusty gunk at the freezplugs and the front of the block,I suspect you had some "hot spots" in the block. You are doing yourself a major favor by just cleaning that crap out so the water will flow like it's supposed to flow.

[Plymouthy Adams]

this is why at our age they say that high cholesterol is such a problem for us...

[casper50]

I'm really glad that my cholesterol in down in the real good zone.  Good genes I guess.  Can't really see how that block was cooled at all.

[Dartgame]

Pretty gunked up for sure. Glad the water tube came out in one piece...Will be interesting to find out what caused the coolant leak. Does not look like it is leaking now...maybe it was the gasket.

[tom'sB2B]

I had some trouble pulling the crank pulley. It took me me several days of heat and PB blaster before I finally got that sucker off.

[Andydodge]

Tom, nice looking 2dr sedan, as we never got anything but 4drs over in Oz I've always liked the look of 2drs whether a sedan,  coupe or convertible.........looks like your on a roll anyway with the teardown , it certainly appears to have had a few oil leaks judging by the amount of built up crud on the timing cover, I'm amazed at how previous owners can leave an engine to leak so much........it will appreciate your efforts..........regards, Andy Douglas   

[dpollo]

You seem to be off to a good start.  Once that block is boiled out and clean you will feel much better.

[classiccarjack]

Hopefully your engine block will check out good with no cracks.

[keithb7]

Thanks for sharing. I shall follow along and learn. You seem well experienced and prepared. 

[tom'sB2B]

Went by the machine shop to check on progress ( they’ve had the block and parts for over two weeks now). They said they had to hot tank the block and spray it out several times to get all the crap out ( no surprise). When in brought the block in, I expressed my concern that I thought it might be cracked. They magnaflux the block and head twice and found no cracks. 

So, that’s good news.

They cylinders will be bored .030

main and rods .010

head shaved .030

block shaved 0.010

 

 

[tom'sB2B]

13 hours ago, keithb7 said:

Thanks for sharing. I shall follow along and learn. You seem well experienced and prepared. 

Thanks. No experience at all. I just read as many forums posts as I can and take lots

of notes.

 

 

[knuckleharley]

5 hours ago, tom'sB2B said:

Went by the machine shop to check on progress ( they’ve had the block and parts for over two weeks now). They said they had to hot tank the block and spray it out several times to get all the crap out ( no surprise). When in brought the block in, I expressed my concern that I thought it might be cracked. They magnaflux the block and head twice and found no cracks. 

So, that’s good news.

They cylinders will be bored .030

main and rods .010

head shaved .030

block shaved 0.010

 

 

That's great news. Now you know you have a solid base to build on,and in the end will have an engine that will last for decades running modern oils with a minimum amount of repairs.

[Branded]

I just went through all this with my Dodge 230. Done a lot of reading here before hand. Rebuild and assembly went fine. Engine is back in the Wayfarer and running. Haven’t had it on the road for a test drive yet due to the weather here in Indiana.

Edited February 22, 2018 by Branded

[Flatie46]

Are you going to have them assemble after machine work or are you going to?

 

How did the cam look?

[tom'sB2B]

Ordered parts today from Egg:

cam bearings

piston set with pins

valve springs

piston ring set

valve lifters

connecring rod bearings

pin bushings

main bearings

cam sprocket

crank sprocket

timing chain

exhaust valves

intake valves

guides

cam will be sent to Egge for grinding

crank will be ground locally

I haven’t decided what I’m going to do about reassembly. This is my first engine build and I’m not very confident in my ability to do it correctly and to make sure a procedure is not missed. I thought about asking the machine shop if I can do the assembly with them so I can learn. Then there is also the $ issue. It’s adding up pretty fast.

[casper50]

I got lucky, the guy that rebuilt mine asked if I wanted to help reassemble it.  "Ya think".  Lol

Edited February 22, 2018 by casper50

[knuckleharley]

2 hours ago, tom'sB2B said:

cam will be sent to Egge for grinding

 

An alternative you might want to consider is Delta Cams on the upper left coast. If you are after a stock cam,chances are they have one in stock they will mail out to you the day you call them,and refund the core charge once they get your old one.

 

They also weld up, grind,and heat treat solid lifters

 

Or if you want  a traditional 3/4 racing grind,stump puller grind,or anything in between,they can do that,too. Good people to work with. It's worth your time to send them a email to compare prices if nothing else.

[keithb7]

A humble approach with plenty of questions here might well get you well through the engine assembly. It would certainly make for an interesting thread. There’s plenty of helpful folks here with lots of experience. 

 

Am I wrong?

[Flatie46]

If you want to learn how to do this, this is an excellent opportunity.  You learn by doing. You can weigh it out, anything you screw up can be fixed.  

 

I believe you can do it.

[tom'sB2B]

2 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

An alternative you might want to consider is Delta Cams on the upper left coast. If you are after a stock cam,chances are they have one in stock they will mail out to you the day you call them,and refund the core charge once they get your old one.

 

They also weld up, grind,and heat treat solid lifters

 

Or if you want  a traditional 3/4 racing grind,stump puller grind,or anything in between,they can do that,too. Good people to work with. It's worth your time to send them a email to compare prices if nothing else.

Thanks. I mailed my cam to Egge an hour ago. So someone else will have to profit from your advice. 

[tom'sB2B]

Thank you for all the incouragment. I’ve got time to weigh my options. I have several weeks of cleaning parts before I need to make a decision.