Fuel Filter at gas tank

[belvedere666]

I was swapping out my gas tank with a clean, recently re-done gas tank from my donor car and when I disconnected the fuel line from the driver car, it cracked. I thought I had read here, about people putting a fuel filter coming out of the fuel tank.  I cut off parts of the line to add enough space to put a filter and rubber hoses. Anyone have anything to say about What challenges this may bring about?

[casper50]

I'd guess that if the line cracked once it will crack again.  Most likely at the most inopportune time.  As far as the filter goes I see no problems with it.

[belvedere666]

25 minutes ago, casper50 said:

I'd guess that if the line cracked once it will crack again.  Most likely at the most inopportune time.  As far as the filter goes I see no problems with it.

 I suppose I should have added that I do plan on replacing the line. Sooner than later. But for now I figured I could worry about everything else I'm worrying about and this will at least keep me moving. I was just asking because I am hoping that it doesn't cause a problem not being threaded right into the tank. Or something like that.

Edited May 3, 2017 by belvedere666
Duplicate lines

[desoto1939]

i WOULD SUGGEST THAT YOU CARYY AND EXTRA LENGTH OF RUBBER FUEL LINE WITH YOU INTHE CAR AS A BACKUP. JUST KEEP INSPECTING THE RUBBER LINE.

 

RICH HARTUNG

[knuckleharley]

2 hours ago, casper50 said:

I'd guess that if the line cracked once it will crack again.  Most likely at the most inopportune time.  As far as the filter goes I see no problems with it.

I agree,and suggest that NOW is the proper time to replace that old,brittle/rusty fuel line with a modern copper/nickel line that won't rust inside or out. It will cost you right at 20 bucks at pretty much any auto parts store in the country,and that's pretty cheap insurance when you consider a leaking gas line can cause your car to catch fire.

Don't forget to replace all the rubber gas lines and any plastic fuel filters with new ones rated to stand up to ethanol use while you are at it.

[belvedere666]

12 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

I agree,and suggest that NOW is the proper time to replace that old,brittle/rusty fuel line with a modern copper/nickel line that won't rust inside or out. It will cost you right at 20 bucks at pretty much any auto parts store in the country,and that's pretty cheap insurance when you consider a leaking gas line can cause your car to catch fire.

Don't forget to replace all the rubber gas lines and any plastic fuel filters with new ones rated to stand up to ethanol use while you are at it.

I couldn't find one that was pre made for a p20. Do auto parts stores sell them with the flares alread in them at the length I would need???

I replaced the rubber hoses and used a glass filter up front. Replaced the hose that connects the filler neck to the tank.

[knuckleharley]

46 minutes ago, belvedere666 said:

I couldn't find one that was pre made for a p20. Do auto parts stores sell them with the flares alread in them at the length I would need???

I replaced the rubber hoses and used a glass filter up front. Replaced the hose that connects the filler neck to the tank.

They sell them by the 20 foot roll. IIRC,you can buy them in 1/4,5/16,and 3/8.  The new copper/nickle lines are so soft you can bend them by hand without kinking them,but it's still best to use a tubing bender for neatness.

You can buy them at NAPA stores,Auto Zone,O'Reillys,and pretty much anywhere else you can buy a fuel or water pump.

[belvedere666]

51 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

They sell them by the 20 foot roll. IIRC,you can buy them in 1/4,5/16,and 3/8.  The new copper/nickle lines are so soft you can bend them by hand without kinking them,but it's still best to use a tubing bender for neatness.

You can buy them at NAPA stores,Auto Zone,O'Reillys,and pretty much anywhere else you can buy a fuel or water pump.

And what about the flaring on this copper nickel tubing?

is it softer and easier to flare than brake lines?

[knuckleharley]

17 minutes ago, belvedere666 said:

And what about the flaring on this copper nickel tubing?

is it softer and easier to flare than brake lines?

Of course. It's make from copper and nickel,not steel. It is also seamless,so you don't have to worry about it splitting. In fact,it is made specifically for brake lines. It doesn't get brittle and crack from vibrations,and it doesn't even rust on the inside due to condensation because it's copper coated in and out..

BTW,I would still use a double flare when using it on brake lines. Not that much pressure on fuel lines on street cars,so no worry there. Other than being easy to bend without kinking,the big advantage to it over steel lines for fuel lines is the ethanol in today's gas won't rust it on the inside.

Try it,you'll like it!

 

BTW,looks like the price has gone up a lot since I did the 51.

 

https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=191763133308&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps

Edited May 4, 2017 by knuckleharley

[belvedere666]

What would the downside be to running a fuel filter in this position AFTER I replace the  fuel line?   

[knuckleharley]

Same as before,no effect.

[dpollo]

The flare at the tank end is not a double flare.  Look at your old one.  It can be duplicated by using the tubing nut  but making only half of the double flare .   Otherwise, it will not seal against the  dip tube in the tank.  Prior to 49, a ferrule-like fitting was inserted into the tank.

There  is at least one union in the original gas line....... this same line treatment can be found in this union and , if that piece of pipe is still in decent shape , could be used at the tank end.

[belvedere666]

13 minutes ago, dpollo said:

The flare at the tank end is not a double flare.  Look at your old one.  It can be duplicated by using the tubing nut  but making only half of the double flare .   Otherwise, it will not seal against the  dip tube in the tank.  Prior to 49, a ferrule-like fitting was inserted into the tank.

There  is at least one union in the original gas line....... this same line treatment can be found in this union and , if that piece of pipe is still in decent shape , could be used at the tank end.

I have a flaring tool... but i didn't have any luck double flaring brake lines. I would just need to do the single flare?

sonyouew saying there should be two pieces of fuel line that connect somewhere under the car? That would make it easier to remove and fit a new one.

[dpollo]

The first step in a double flare is to make  a  kind of closed bell shape at the end of the line. Then this is pressed into the tool to complete the flare.   For the tank fitting you stop at step 1.   The union in the line is in the vicinity of the driver's door.

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[Plymouthy Adams]

7 hours ago, belvedere666 said:

I have a flaring tool... but i didn't have any luck double flaring brake lines. I would just need to do the single flare?

sonyouew saying there should be two pieces of fuel line that connect somewhere under the car? That would make it easier to remove and fit a new one.

if your flaring tool does not contain the special buttons for making a double flare...you not going to be able to do it in any other manner..working with the new softer Monel line makes flaring a much easier process.

[Don Coatney]

Several years ago a forum member gave me this military heavy duty flaring tool. It worked great. Another forum member wanted to borrow it so I sent it to him. He used it and when done he asked me if he could buy it. I told him that I really did not want to part with it but as I was between jobs I could use the money. A week later he sent me an airline ticket and I was in his office interviewing for a job. Best job and best boss I ever had in my life. Carried my up to retirement.

[Mike36]

Sometimes you find the best things when you're not looking. Neat story Don.

[Young Ed]

1 hour ago, Don Coatney said:

Several years ago a forum member gave me this military heavy duty flaring tool. It worked great. Another forum member wanted to borrow it so I sent it to him. He used it and when done he asked me if he could buy it. I told him that I really did not want to part with it but as I was between jobs I could use the money. A week later he sent me an airline ticket and I was in his office interviewing for a job. Best job and best boss I ever had in my life. Carried my up to retirement.

 

You left out the most important part-what happened to the tool?

[Don Coatney]

8 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

You left out the most important part-what happened to the tool?

As far as I know Chet still has it.

 

[ptwothree]

8 hours ago, dpollo said:

The first step in a double flare is to make  a  kind of closed bell shape at the end of the line. Then this is pressed into the tool to complete the flare.   For the tank fitting you stop at step 1.   The union in the line is in the vicinity of the driver's door.

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       1                   2

My experience when flaring a line is to start with a perfect 90 degree end with no deformities or burrs.  If not, then it's all down hill from there.  That nickle copper line is easy to flare and to bend.

Edited May 4, 2017 by ptwothree
spelling error

[Dartgame]

On my 52 there is a union about half way down the frame towards the front, maybe yours does too. Good place to join your new piece to the old.

[DrDoctor]

   The copper/nickel tubing is great. I’ve used it to plumb brake systems, fuel systems, transmission coolers, and a couple of other auto-related, but semi-unorthodox systems, and have never had a failure with anything. With the brake systems, tho’ knuckleharley’s correct—double flares are essential. As for rubber hoses—not the best solution. If your metal fuel line has failed, it’s going to fail again, and most likely at the most inopportune time, and perhaps with dire results. So, I again agree w knuckleharley—now’s the time to replace the fuel line. As for fuel filters, plastic ones aren’t the best, either. In the engine compartment, the heat from the engine doesn’t do them any good, and a failure there could be catastrophic. Under the car, they don’t take road rash all that well, either. Moral of this: get a metal-cased one. Or, better yet—put a permanent one on that uses a replaceable cartridge—safe, secure, and you eliminate the rubber connection to the cheapie fuel filter.

[DrDoctor]

P.S. — On our car (‘46 Plymouth), I installed a permanent canister-type fuel filter that uses a replaceable cartridge right before the fuel pump, and an AC glass-bowl filter (fits a ‘56 Chevy) screwed directly to the inlet of the carburetor with a single brass fitting.