jpartington Posted June 25, 2017 Author Report Posted June 25, 2017 So not sure if this is a bad question or not. But I'm trying to put the new decal on the crankcase breather and I can't get it. How do I apply these decals? They are not just a regular sticker. Quote
The Oil Soup Posted June 25, 2017 Report Posted June 25, 2017 If it is not a sticker it's a water slide transfer decal. Clean the surface of the breather, soak the decal in water for a minute and slide it onto the breather and use a damp clothe to press it into place. Quote
jpartington Posted June 26, 2017 Author Report Posted June 26, 2017 Yes you were right. I've never had to do one like that before. Thank you finished product 3 Quote
jpartington Posted June 28, 2017 Author Report Posted June 28, 2017 Just checked the motor and it still works woo hoo! now got it all tore apart to clean it all up. Then more paint. Anybody repaint one of these with the original maroon color? Just wondering what color you used. Quote
Desotodav Posted June 28, 2017 Report Posted June 28, 2017 3 hours ago, jpartington said: Just checked the motor and it still works woo hoo! now got it all tore apart to clean it all up. Then more paint. Anybody repaint one of these with the original maroon color? Just wondering what color you used. Might pay to drop Mark (ggdad 1951) a PM as he has restored a couple of them. See thread to follow...... Quote
jpartington Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Posted June 30, 2017 I think I'm just going to bring a piece of the heater with me to the store and match as close as I can to the top of a spray can. Quote
jpartington Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Posted June 30, 2017 Does anyone have any information on the linkage I circled in the picture? Davin showed me a picture of one and mine looks a bit longer. And it is brass, so I'm thinking it is not correct. Maybe some possible measurments, length diameter, etc. so I can produce my own while I hunt for a stock one. Unless someone on here happens to have a spare Quote
HotRodTractor Posted June 30, 2017 Report Posted June 30, 2017 One thing to note - your truck has an air throttled governor installed under the carb - so that will effect the length of the arm you have circled and would require the piece to be longer than the typical application by the thickness of the air governor. Personally.... I would remove the governor and that would put you back to using a stock piece (that is missing). But I also like to live life dangerously. My only experience with those governors is I have a set currently under the dual carb setup I have.... someone before me has removed the butterfly plates so they obviously didn't care for them either..... lol Quote
jpartington Posted July 1, 2017 Author Report Posted July 1, 2017 I don't know anything about the governor. Would more information about be possible? Were they not stock? And what would be a benefit to keeping it? thank you Quote
JBNeal Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 engine governor = rev limiter...gotta protect the engine from blowing itself up when hauling a heavy load downhill and using the engine to help them brakes Quote
medium_jon Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 On 4/8/2017 at 2:07 AM, jpartington said: in the meantime it has become a nice shelf. There is normally more stuff on it. If it was in my garage it would have a lot more stuff piled on it Quote
pflaming Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 My governer is in Sacramento, unfortunately not so easy to remove. LOL Quote
jpartington Posted July 1, 2017 Author Report Posted July 1, 2017 So my truck would be fine without it? cant say I plan on hauling any heavy loads Quote
HotRodTractor Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 Took me a while to find it - this might help: Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 I have several trucks with factory governors... they do not affect drivability at all as long as no one has tampered with it. There is a wire tie and lead seal to show if it has been tampered with. They are a factory option on some of the 1-1/2 ton models. Common on most all 2 ton and heavier trucks. I will get a measurement for the OE throttle linkage rod this weekend. Quote
jpartington Posted July 1, 2017 Author Report Posted July 1, 2017 My truck is only a 1 ton. In its prime it was used as a grain truck, so it used to haul heavy loads. Could this be the reason someone may have installed the govener? If I remove it would the truck still perform the same? Or would you advise against it? Quote
JBNeal Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 (edited) additional information - Engine Governor As A Rev Limiter Edited October 18, 2019 by JBNeal revised link Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 6 hours ago, JBNeal said: engine governor = rev limiter...gotta protect the engine from blowing itself up when hauling a heavy load downhill and using the engine to help them brakes JB, I don't understand how an engine rev limiter that governs the throttle can prevent over-spin when coasting downhill using the engine compression as an additional brake. Seems to me the rev limiter would not work in this application??? 2 Quote
JBNeal Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 The governor cannot compensate for lack of wheel braking when coasting downhill, it is only to assist wheel braking to reduce brake fade...these contraptions are there to help protect the engine, but as with any device that can be defeated by intent, where there's a will, there's a way Quote
BobB Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 6 hours ago, pflaming said: My governer is in Sacramento, unfortunately not so easy to remove. LOL You should check out Alabam's approach. We just let our's resign in a plea deal to escape a jail term. Unfortunately, it wasn't before he was able to appoint his Attorney General to a U.S. Senate seat in an attempt to hinder the investigation. Hope to remedy that in an upcoming special election. One of our previous governors just finished his jail term for corruption. Oh, me . . . 1 Quote
1940 Dodge VC Posted July 2, 2017 Report Posted July 2, 2017 On the dual horn setup... Is that stock or did you build it? Do the horns play different notes? Quote
Desotodav Posted July 2, 2017 Report Posted July 2, 2017 7 hours ago, 1940 Dodge VC said: On the dual horn setup... Is that stock or did you build it? Do the horns play different notes? The dual horns were an option available back in the day. They pop up on Ebay occasionally, but are usually quite expensive. I bought both of my dual horn sets as a pair. I thought that changing the pitch was as simple as making a slight adjustment, but I was advised that they were manufactured with a high and a low tone. I have a set of 6 volt dual horns on my 52 truck and am presently piecing a 12v pair together for my 53 truck (which most likely will not end up dual-tone). 1 Quote
1940 Dodge VC Posted July 2, 2017 Report Posted July 2, 2017 1 hour ago, Desotodav said: The dual horns were an option available back in the day. ... am presently piecing a 12v pair together for my 53 truck (which most likely will not end up dual-tone). First time seeing that set up. Very nice looking. Where will you mount it? I have seen three different single horn locations: Engine block, firewall and engine and splash panel. Mine came mounted to the head bolts. I'm running an ooga horn, mostly because that seems to be what people expect from a bug-eyed farm truck. I keep a bale of hay in the back because that's also what people expect. And today, I'll mount a couple of US flags in the stake pockets to celebrate the 4th. A thought on changing the tone: add or subtract mass from the diaphragm. More mass = lower the tone. If you like physics, you could calculate the mass be needed to lower the tone by a third. Of course, you'd want to experiment a little... and wake neighborhood Quote
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