the pin...the pin

[dmulhall]

So I've put about 600 miles on my b2b without a issue what so ever...decided to make a 60 mile drive to a car show this evening on a windy cloudy afternoon..

Get about 10 miles out of town,pull a bit of a hill and engine quits...get out open the hood,is it electrical or fuel??? Pull a plug wire off,turned it over, yup have spark (must be fuel)

So I take the top off my carb and it's dry...not getting fuel...what do I do? Like anyone would guess, pull off the inline filter and blow through it...no issues...fuel line is flowing $1.20/liter (canadian) fuel all over the highway so fuel line isn't plugged..?? Hummm...fuel pump come loose or diaphragm broke? (Which would upset me cause it has about 300 miles on it and I run MMO in every tank so the elthenol doesn't dry out the diaphragm) Nope bolts are tight..now what?

Pull the fuel pump off and the arm is loose...under closer inspection the pin came 3/4 of the way out that let's the arm pivot..put it back together...prime the carb...fires right up..purrs like a kitten...

Now the question...do I continue the next 40 miles to the show? Do I head home?? (Meanwhile all the car guys have been stopping and driving by laughing at my old little truck.

The thought went through my mind maybe keep going and show them it WOULD and could make the trip!!

But I decide to swallow my pride and turn around and head home...so now INTO the 30mph wind..

Approx 3 miles back home my visor comes off the passenger side and starts flapping in the wind...so pull over put it back on (tarp strap it down for good measure) fire it up pull back into traffic...about 2 miles later poof, drivers side of the visor pops off and starts flapping in the wind...pull over AGAIN...

Take the whole visor off, lay it on my passenger side and drive the remaining 5 miles back home with the tail between my legs...oh boy...

Now sitting here with a beer in my hand deciding if it's OK to jb weld that fuel pump pin in so it doesn't come out again...??

[NiftyFifty]

JB weld is somewhat resistant to gas, but I fixed a fuel selector valve once in a 1987 Chevy truck, and used A LOT of JB weld and it kept leaking until I finally scraped all the lose stuff off, put a thin layer of silicone on and then once dry, put way more JB weld on...held as long as I owned the truck.,which was only about 3 more months....I guess what I'm saying is...find a different way LOL Can you take the pin right out? If so I would peen (mushroom or roughen) one end and see if it was possible to split the other and widen once installed, or find one of those press on clips......if it was really me, the mig would be out and it would never come out again..but I run a 12volt pump because the $280 they wanted for stock was more then I'd pay.

We all get defeated by our vehicles at some point, but wrenching on them is a vital part of the sport. By the way...where are you from..gas is dirt cheap at 1.13/litre here in Manitoba..LMAO

[dmulhall]

Haha thanks buddy

I'm in prince albert sask...119.9

[TodFitch]

Not sure how well a weld between a steel pin and pot metal body would work. But you can get a longer pin with grooves cut in it and use "C" clips to assure that it will never accidentally come out. The rebuilding kits I have gotten recently from Antique Auto Parts Cellar have that type of setup on the pins and I believe that Don C was able to get the same type of pin (and maybe the clips too) from a supplier like McMaster-Carr. I would not be surprised if he posts that information in this thread.

[Don Coatney]

McMaster Carr does have such a pin. Measure your pin and look for this on there web page.

 

[ggdad1951]

I still don't see how these pins keep falling out...are these originals rebuilt or new repops?

[Merle Coggins]

New repops. Happened to me too. The new pumps don't have a tight enough press fit for the pin so they don't stay in place.

You could try staking the pin with a center punch. Either put a couple dimples on the body next to the pin on either side to tighten up the fit, or punch the ends of the pin to flare the ends slightly so it won't come out.

Merle

[Don Coatney]

New repops. Happened to me too. The new pumps don't have a tight enough press fit for the pin so they don't stay in place.

You could try staking the pin with a center punch. Either put a couple dimples on the body next to the pin on either side to tighten up the fit, or punch the ends of the pin to flare the ends slightly so it won't come out.

Merle

Pins are steel, pump body aluminum. Much easier to dimple the body.

[NiftyFifty]

I was thinking this style clips

[Geekay]

 (Meanwhile all the car guys have been stopping and driving by laughing at my old little truck.

 

I wouldn't be laughing, it is a great looking truck.  One day I hope to be be driving down the road too.

 

At least you have the knowledge to find and fix the problem.

[MBF]

I had the same problem with a rebuilt unit I got from NAPA that resulted in a tow.  I JBwelded the pin years ago and its still holding.  If it happens again, I will get a rebuild kit, rebuild it myself, and get a longer pin that will take the push on clip locks.

[Todd B]

Happened to me also and I switched to electric fuel pump

[NiftyFifty]

I'm not 100% sold that electric is the answer, as I needed 2 pumps in 4 years, and one only lasted 1/2 a season...but it's cheaper to start with, and I think better starting

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have never had a failure with the Facet solid state fuel pump.....

 

this is just one of many listed....    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Facet-40194-Electronic-Fuel-Pump-/322155287119?hash=item4b01f3924f:g:MlEAAOSwie5XTIJZ&vxp=mtr

 

you can find these under Carter, Purolator and even Holley got in on the act...also generic models selling cheap but the units are extremely cheap construction and I would be very iffy on the pump internals...while I do not drive the car often that I have this puppy on...25 years laters still pumping nicely..that is a lot of sitting with fuel inside not going anywhere...

[NiftyFifty]

I have never had a failure with the Facet solid state fuel pump.....

 

this is just one of many listed....    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Facet-40194-Electronic-Fuel-Pump-/322155287119?hash=item4b01f3924f:g:MlEAAOSwie5XTIJZ&vxp=mtr

 

you can find these under Carter, Purolator and even Holley got in on the act...also generic models selling cheap but the units are extremely cheap construction and I would be very iffy on the pump internals...while I do not drive the car often that I have this puppy on...25 years laters still pumping nicely..that is a lot of sitting with fuel inside not going anywhere...

I have that exact pump now in the Purolator form...how loud is your pump Plymouth? That's my biggest complaint with that pump, works great, but it's extremely loud compared to the other two I had. I do have it mounted right to he drivers side frame rail and it's a hammering sound...,did it from day 1 and the loudness comes and goes, but it's got a couple thousand miles on it now and seems to be working well.

[Plymouthy Adams]

can barely hear it when it first comes on..rarely ever hear it after "primed and pressurized"....secret is isolation mounting...if you mount it to the body or frame...it sounds like a leprechaun with a hammer is at work...

 

I use similar....grab them at  swap meets when I see them..strip them from some Ford cars in the yard when I come across them....

 

be sure to remember to jumper your ground wire from top to bottom on one of the two you will use to mount the pump

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pc-Rubber-Shock-Absorber-Vibration-Isolator-Mount-1-4-20-1-x-3-4-Threaded-/371514985046?hash=item568004ca56:g:J0wAAOSwPcVVo1kn

 

Edited June 21, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[NiftyFifty]

Ya, I thought about isolation rubber, I was just following the directions that said it wanted a hard frame/pump ground ...but I will run a new wire and put some rubber between...that leprechaun is getting annoying

[Jeff Balazs]

I am not a fan of the inline pumps at all. They may be fine for a quick prime but I have seen too many fail in full time use..Just happened to a buddy of mine two weeks ago on the freeway. I am using a Carter rotary vane pump. More expensive to be sure but they have a very good track record as a primary pump. It has proven to be faultless in every day use. They are available in 6 or 12 volt.....+/- ground

Hope this helps, Jeff

[DollyDodge]

^{Funny, I had similar experience with Dolly, whether to go or no go.  On our way to the Sesquicentennial for Inyo County, about a 50 mile drive, old Dolly's generator issue popped up again.  I stopped at my folks house and tried to get it working right but couldn't, it was either go home or head down the road and hoped it all worked out. I decided to chance it and head down the road. I lucked out and it got to working again on its own and we had a successful round trip.} 

 

^{I had the same problem with the fuel pump pin on the original fuel pump a couple years ago,, besides it leaked like a sieve, the new replacement pump has been perfect so far.}

[NiftyFifty]

I don't have much trust in Carter electric fuel pumps, probably 40% of them would fail right out of the box, or shortly after back in my shop days..it got to the point we just refused to install them because of short life spans for the ones that didn't fail on the bench test.

One nice thing about an electric pump, if it does fail you can find a replacement just about anywhere, the same can't be said for the stock mechanical pump if your in no mans land.

[wolfy]

I possibily have the same issue here.  Glad you guys are here and aware of what is going on.  This may have just saved me some money instead of buying a new pump.  Going to pull mine off and inspect. 

 

I had the same problem.  Driving down the road and then bam no fuel. 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/41363-left-me-stranded