Left me stranded

[wolfy]

Well i haven't posted in a while, busy.  Had our 3rd child, finally got me a little girl:)  New job and lots of yard work.  Still driving the 50 windsor.  Driving it around at least 3 times a week.  Well it broke down on me.  Driving down the highway and bam like I was out of gas.  You have to love old cars, I pop the hood and no fuel in the clear filter.  So I have it towed back home.  

 

I have the original style pump.  I have no idea how old it is.

 

The fuel lines are a bit rusty, there is some rust that came out.  I probably need to replace them, but for right now I just need a fuel pump.  I have pulled all lines out and they are running clean and clear.  The feed line to the pump will free flow and clear.  The other line up to the carb is clear as well.  

 

Anyway the discharge line from the pump, I can siphon it out, but when cranking over the engine, not a drop of fuel comes out. So I am assuming my pump is shot.  

 

Where do you all source these pumps from.  I see Kanter has them for $100. I just need the single action as I have electric wipers.

https://www.kanter.com/productdetail.aspx?Mak=Chrysler&Ov=1&Yr=1950&Dv=1&Dpt=1500&Sb=0&Vdr=&Itm=&MDv=1&MDpt=0&MSb=0&Cat=42&Prc=184

 

Rock auto says they have 2 and AIRTEX 73201  Mechanical Pump for $62 bucks and a Looks like napa has this very pump for $100 bucks

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/AFP73201/AFP73201_0192514330

 

 

 

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT SP1296MP  Mechanical Pump for $120

 

Any experience with these pumps?  Any luck at the local autocrats stores.  I have them all here.  On my old 52 GMC I could get just about everything at napa and car quest.  

 

Any help would be very appreciative.  

Edited June 30, 2016 by wolfy

[_shel_ny]

Lots of failures associated with the pin working out of the arm that rides on the cam. You may want to pull the pump out and see if that is the case before you buy a new pump.

[knuckleharley]

Well i haven't posted in a while, busy.  Had our 3rd child, finally got me a little girl:)  New job and lots of yard work.  Still driving the 50 windsor.  Driving it around at least 3 times a week.  Well it broke down on me.  Driving down the highway and bam like I was out of gas.  You have to love old cars, I pop the hood and no fuel in the clear filter.  So I have it towed back home.  

 

I have the original style pump.  I have no idea how old it is.

 

The fuel lines are a bit rusty, there is some rust that came out.  I probably need to replace them, but for right now I just need a fuel pump.  I have pulled all lines out and they are running clean and clear.  The feed line to the pump will free flow and clear.  The other line up to the carb is clear as well.  

 

Anyway the discharge line from the pump, I can siphon it out, but when cranking over the engine, not a drop of fuel comes out. So I am assuming my pump is shot.  

 

Where do you all source these pumps from.  I see Kanter has them for $100. I just need the single action as I have electric wipers.

https://www.kanter.com/productdetail.aspx?Mak=Chrysler&Ov=1&Yr=1950&Dv=1&Dpt=1500&Sb=0&Vdr=&Itm=&MDv=1&MDpt=0&MSb=0&Cat=42&Prc=184

 

Rock auto says they have 2 and AIRTEX 73201  Mechanical Pump for $62 bucks and a Looks like napa has this very pump for $100 bucks

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/AFP73201/AFP73201_0192514330

 

 

 

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT SP1296MP  Mechanical Pump for $120

 

Any experience with these pumps?  Any luck at the local autocrats stores.  I have them all here.  On my old 52 GMC I could get just about everything at napa and car quest.  

 

Any help would be very appreciative.  

I think it it were me,for that kind of money I would buy a electric fuel pump,a 4 lb regulator,and a "bump" device to shut it down in case of an accident.

[wolfy]

This is interesting.  Thanks for the tip.  So is there a way to prevent that pin from slipping back out again?  Sorry it maybe obvious once I pull the pump

 

Lots of failures associated with the pin working out of the arm that rides on the cam. You may want to pull the pump out and see if that is the case before you buy a new pump.

 

 

I have thought about an electric pump as well.  I really don't want to go down that route yet.  I like having the car as original as possible.  

[Young Ed]

I rebuild my own with kits from antique auto cellar/then and now automotive. 

[Barabbas]

I rebuild my own with kits from antique auto cellar/then and now automotive. 

Me too--their rebuild kit has a pin with clips on it to keep it from working out

[vintage6t]

I installed an audited last month. So far so good. I'm an Amazon prime member so I got it from there. Was $66.

Also if you have rust in the tank and a strainer on the tank pickup tube the strainer can clog when under suction. That would starve your pump.

[greg g]

Which style of pump do you have? Some of them have a hollow bolt holding on the cover of the inlet chamber. Many of this style have an internal brass filtering screen. If you have tank rust issues, it can become fouled enough to prevent fuel flow. Also the hollow chamber of the bolt can also become plugged with crap from the tank.

[DLK]

This is interesting.  Thanks for the tip.  So is there a way to prevent that pin from slipping back out again?  Sorry it maybe obvious once I pull the pump

 

 

 

I have thought about an electric pump as well.  I really don't want to go down that route yet.  I like having the car as original as possible.

Since my 1950 Dodge has a dual action pump I sent it to Antique Auto Cellar to rebuild and I keep a single action pump in the trunk as a backup. I had the exact thing happen I was cursing on the interstate at 60 and the car died when the pin broke.

[Niel Hoback]

I have the Rockauto pump and it's been doing alright for about a year now. I have an electric pump at the tank outlet. The mechanical pump pulls though electric one very well.

[_shel_ny]

This is interesting.  Thanks for the tip.  So is there a way to prevent that pin from slipping back out again?  Sorry it maybe obvious once I pull the pump

 

 

 

Can stake the pin, or replace with a pin with clips to prevent movement.

 

Recent thread on truck side about the pin.

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/41295-the-pinthe-pin/

 

 

 

Edited June 30, 2016 by shel_ny

[_shel_ny]

This is interesting.  Thanks for the tip.  So is there a way to prevent that pin from slipping back out again?  Sorry it maybe obvious once I pull the pump

 

 

 

another thread:

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/32046-fuel-pump-life-span/

[wolfy]

Wow you guys are just great.  Thanks so much. 

 

I will pull my pump off right now to see what the deal is.  Maybe the pin just came loose.  There is a barb fitting on the suction side of my pump so it could accept a rubber fuel hose.  Doesn't look stock to me, but I didn't check to see if there was a screen.  However I did blow compressed air through that and it came out free and clear.  Also I put the glass bowl back on and it filled up no problem.  So I I am pretty confident that I have fuel to the pump.Not saying that some thing else is lurking in there waiting to clog up again. 

 

I did look in the tank and there is some rust, but I tried to stir it around with a stick and it seems to be stuck.  But that is just  at the part I could see through the float hole.

 

Thanks for the links and tips.  I have some more reading to do now to see what I want to do.  First I plan to pull my pump to see what its deal is.  Then possibly a rebuild or a new one or both, so I have a spare if need be. 

 

Thanks again.  I hope to have some time tonight to check it out!

[knuckleharley]

IMHO,the best way to clear rust out of an old gas tank is to throw and bunch of bolts and nuts it it,shake it vigorously several times to get the big stuff loose,and then flush it out with compressed air and fill it a little over half way full of vinegar. Let it sit no more than 48 hours,and then flip it over so the vinegar can eat the rust on the other side of it, When done pour the vinegar on weeds or just down the drain,and coat the inside of the tank with some sort of sealer guaranteed to stand up to ethanol gas.

 

My best advise is to just spend the bucks to buy a new Tanks,Inc gas tank for it and be done fooling with the damn thing. Lots of work to keep draining one,pulling it,blowing out the lines,and rebuilding a carb if you don't get it right the first time. IIRC,I paid something like 240 bucks for my new Tanks,Inc stock replacement tank. 240 bucks ain't what it used to be. Especially when you add up the labor for pulling,flushing,and replacing a tank. Even if you do it yourself,your time is worth something,and if the car quits running away from home you will have a tow bill to pay,

 

Either way I strongly recommend you spend 25 bucks or so to buy a 25 foot roll of the nickel-copper brake/gas line to replace your old line and solve that rust problem forever, The stuff can be bent by hand without kinking,and won't rust inside or out. It comes in 25 foot rolls and you can buy it in any auto parts store in the country.

 

While at it,make sure you replace any rubber gas lines or plastic gas filters with brand new ones rated to handle ethanol.

Edited June 30, 2016 by knuckleharley

[Phil Martin]

Be carefull when you take it off. The pin worked out on mine and when I took it off I wasn't carefull and the arm which the pin holds fell into the pan.

[wolfy]

IMHO,the best way to clear rust out of an old gas tank is to throw and bunch of bolts and nuts it it,shake it vigorously several times to get the big stuff loose,and then flush it out with compressed air and fill it a little over half way full of vinegar. Let it sit no more than 48 hours,and then flip it over so the vinegar can eat the rust on the other side of it, When done pour the vinegar on weeds or just down the drain,and coat the inside of the tank with some sort of sealer guaranteed to stand up to ethanol gas.

 

My best advise is to just spend the bucks to buy a new Tanks,Inc gas tank for it and be done fooling with the damn thing. Lots of work to keep draining one,pulling it,blowing out the lines,and rebuilding a carb if you don't get it right the first time. IIRC,I paid something like 240 bucks for my new Tanks,Inc stock replacement tank. 240 bucks ain't what it used to be. Especially when you add up the labor for pulling,flushing,and replacing a tank. Even if you do it yourself,your time is worth something,and if the car quits running away from home you will have a tow bill to pay,

 

Either way I strongly recommend you spend 25 bucks or so to buy a 25 foot roll of the nickel-copper brake/gas line to replace your old line and solve that rust problem forever, The stuff can be bent by hand without kinking,and won't rust inside or out. It comes in 25 foot rolls and you can buy it in any auto parts store in the country.

 

While at it,make sure you replace any rubber gas lines or plastic gas filters with brand new ones rated to handle ethanol.

 

You know I have been tossing this around.  I did this very thing on my 52 GMC truck. New tank, pump, SS fuel lines. Carb rebuild. And in the 10 years and well over 12K miles I never once had a problem.  That was nice to just get in it and drive and not have to worry.  I just looked on the tank inc and at least online they don't offer one for my 50 Chrysler windsor.  I will give them a call.  I see Andy B has one @ $350.  Still not a terrible price. 

 

Thanks for the tips for the fuel lines too.  Yes if or more likely when I end up doing the tank, the lines and all that will be replaced as well.  On my 52, it was really easy they had some prebent ones, obviously shorter due to the tank being behind the back seat.  But This run doesn't look too bad at all. 

 

 

Be carefull when you take it off. The pin worked out on mine and when I took it off I wasn't carefull and the arm which the pin holds fell into the pan.

Thank you for the tip here!  That could potentially save me a big headache!!!

 

No time last night to work on this unfortunatly.  Hope to find some time tomorrow.  I get withdrawls if I don't drive it a few times a week:)

[wolfy]

Well I actually had some time to work on this.  Sure enough that pin had backed out!  You guys are the best. 

 

So to make sure this didn't happen again, I got my punch out and hit the side of the pump itself, as well as put some JB weld over both sides.  Hopefully that will hold. 

 

 

We are back up and running!