36 dodge smoking white and bad

['36 Glasstruck]

['36 Glasstruck]

['36 Glasstruck]

['36 Glasstruck]

Ugly brazing I know- but I think it will seal

['36 Glasstruck]

Hole they have to drill when dipping

['36 Glasstruck]

Patched it with a penny. Now at least its worth $.01.

['36 Glasstruck]

Painted with rustoleum zinc galvanizing paint. Might be kind of how it looked when new? It did look to be galvanized before it was acid dipped. Anyhow I had it laying around so what the heck.

['36 Glasstruck]

[squirebill]

Did you ever come to a conclusion on the "white smoking and bad" problem?

['36 Glasstruck]

Yes it was due to all the stuff I dumped down the engine in order to free it up. Now its kind of a build/ or get it driving thread because I didn't see the need to start a new thread.

[jeffsunzeri]

On ‎8‎/‎30‎/‎2018 at 12:52 PM, '36 Glasstruck said:

Ugly brazing I know- but I think it will seal

Why braze and not solder as the factory did?

 

['36 Glasstruck]

Not to sure.  I guess beause it was lead.  In hindsight, I probably could have just re-wetted it back in, but I wanted to try brazing.  It actually looked better, but then I was paranoid that it may leak in a couple spot, so I went around trying to touch it up, and it kind of snowballed from there.  I think it will be alright though.

['36 Glasstruck]

Pretty good progress so far. I have all of my brake components sent off for replacement or refurbishment.  I installed new kingpin bushings and test fit. I'm going to paint the axle, backing plates, spindles and rebuild and paint the steering components. I went back and forth on it for a while because I'm leaving the truck as original as possible but I figured it would be nice to have the underneath nice and clean. Might as well have something nice and new looking so there is something to show for all the work.

 

My shock on the front driver side is shot. The shaft is just wobbling and flopping around inside the housing. Does anybody have one they can part with or know if there are rebuild kits available?  I would  like to modify them to have more spring tension if possible?  I also think it's odd that they naturally spring up and are not designed to preload down?

 

Anybody knowledgeable on the Delco Lovejoy knee action shocks could chime in and/or possibly sell me one or point me in the right direction?

[Dozerman51]

If they are like the ones on my 41 Military 1/2 ton, parts are real hard to come by. There are internal and external repair kits. Again very hard to find. You might try the GM forums. Special tools are required to take them completely apart. You can have them rebuilt, but it is expensive. I had mine rebuilt by A-1 Shock in Santa Ana, CA. Figure around $200.00 per shock. Good luck. Love the looks of your truck. 

['36 Glasstruck]

Thank you, and thanks for the reply Dozerman. The more I've been thinking about it and looking around the more I just want to stick tubes shock on front and rear. 

 

 For the price of one original rebuild I could outfit the entire truck with better tube style shocks. Then the question is, how best to go about it. Seems pretty simple except how to mount them. So many options but no concrete way. Tons of generic street rod, dune buggy, truck kits etc.

 

If anyone has done it, I'd love to see some pics for inspiration.

[TodFitch]

@'36 Glasstruck Your post is perilously close to being considered a request for parts. Remember: All buy/sell requests must be in the classified ad area.

 

There are a number of rebuilders of the old Delco-Lovejoy shocks. There might be some cheaper than A-1 in Santa Ana. In addition there is an on going thread on the AACA forums on the restoration of a '32 Dodge with similar shocks where the owner figured out how to rebuild them himself. Sorry I am not pointing to the beginning of the area on the shock restoration, you'll have to read through the 66 pages on the thread for yourself.

['36 Glasstruck]

 

Backed it out out of the garage on Tuesday fellas and it stopped for the first time with its brand new installed complete brake system while running on fuel from its own tank. A huge step in this project. Now it is at what I consider ground zero. Without brakes and fuel I was in the negative but now I'm about even. Looking to get into the plus.

 

Now is when the real fun starts: getting fixed up for street travel.

 

I know I don't update the thread very often but I'm still at it guys!

 

But as the title of the thread states, it's still smoking like a banshee. Runs like a Swiss watch but smokes something fierce. Through some discussions I'm thinking a head gasket change is the solution. But come to think of it I've probably only had it running about 1 hr total since I freed it up so maybe there is still oil in the muffler. I'll run it some more and see but a head gasket is probably a good idea anyway.

Cheers!

Edited May 23, 2020 by '36 Glasstruck

[Tooljunkie]

Idling around will not completely cook out all the oil in the pipe,  exhaust will need to be hot, end to end.  
that truck looks awesome! As far as body/  paint goes i wouldnt change a thing!

i know about slow progress, been there. 

 

[minicooper]

Wow! What a beautiful truck, love it just like it is! I’d do a compression test to Check on the head gasket, before replacing.

[Los_Control]

Great looking truck, I agree with a compression check before doing anything. If for no other reason but a starting point. Rings will get sticky, valves gummy, from sitting ... sounds like yours was stuck at one point ... naturally would expect stuck rings also. These old engines will start to improve compression and valves will start seating after they run some.

Get a few heat cycles going .... but was told stuck rings really like to run in their power band while driving, not just sit and idle. That will get them loosened up and working as should.

 

My truck sat for 10+ years, compression was all over the place on the cylinders, I wrote them down. #2 cyl was at 60 psi. Let it run a short time and was up to 75psi, Last time I checked I think it was up to 90psi.  This is why I suggest a compression check just to monitor progress.

At this stage I probably idle maybe 6 hours, and try to avoid long idle sessions and wait till can drive it to see improvements.

['36 Glasstruck]

Alright fellas I think you are onto something. When I first start the truck up and it's cold i.e. the exhaust pipe is cold, it doesn't smoke a lick. But soon as the exhaust starts to heat up the smoke appears. 

 

There must be some oil in the muffler yet.

Edited May 23, 2020 by '36 Glasstruck

[squirebill]

See my post #42 of this thread.  Exact same condition....would start smoking after 15 minutes of idling.   Drilled 1/8 hole in bottom of muffler, drained gunk out, no more smoking.  Filled hole with sheet metal screw. Regards.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Run it for a 1/2 hour at 2000 RPM.

Smoke be gone.

That as long as the engine is mechanically feeling well.

['36 Glasstruck]

I drove it around the neighborhood for a while on Sunday. I think the smoke is clearing up already. 

 

It runs really good but but there is a slight stutter off idle/starting from a dead stop. Also if you tap the gas rather quickly.

 

I put a new fuel sending unit in the tank. I notice when I turn the key on the fuel gauge just pegs to full. Does that mean the wire is grounding out somewhere? Is there a way I can test this/remedy it without dropping the tank again. 

 

I don’t know if anyone has experience with a ‘36 fuel tank but it is BEAR  to remove/install.

Edited June 9, 2020 by '36 Glasstruck

[Merle Coggins]

I'm not sure how the fuel gauges worked in '36, but if they are similar to the later ones there is a constant pull electro-magnet that pulls the needle to "E" and another electro-magnet that connects to the sender. This creates a variable magnet to pull the needle to "F". The fuel sensor has lower resistance at full and higher resistance at empty. Lower resistance causes the magnet to be stronger to pull towards the "F" mark. If the sensor wire is shorted out that equals Zero resistance and will peg the gauge to "F". However, I've also seen cases where the gauge housing wasn't properly grounding to the dash and this caused the constant pull magnet to be dead so there was no pull towards "E". This would also peg the gauge to "F" even though the sensor circuit was good.