Really bad ticking/tapping noise

[Niel Hoback]

That's too tight. You should be able to move the pedal an inch before it moves the fork. It's possible that engine vibration could be transmitted through the linkage and making a knocking noise.

Shorten the rod that pushes the fork in the bell housing and listen again.

[Niel Hoback]

Merle, you type much faster than I.

[Tatback]

Hmm...

1. Zero clutch free play

2. Noise disappears when trans is in reverse (not moving I presume?)

3. Slight noise when placed in High Fwd. (is that right at the moment it goes into gear and the clutch pedal is released?)

4. Noise reappears when driving.

Sounds like your throw-out bearing is going bad and making noise since the clutch pedal/fork has it in contact with the clutch all of the time. When you are in Rev or Fwd and stalling the FD unit the clutch is not spinning, so it won't make any noise. In neutral, or when driving, the clutch is spinning against the bearing and it makes noise.

Try adjusting the clutch linkage to gain some free play, and check that the throw-out bearing is pulling away from the clutch fingers when the pedal is released. You'll have to look from underneath with the clutch pan removed.

Merle

Since I have the floor out right now and I did play with the turnbuckle when I was taking everything apart I'll try and adjusting right now..

Sorry for my ignorance though as I have no idea how to adjust it for more free play. I do have the shop manual and I do have it open to page 52 with the diagram of the clutch and pedal linkage but I don't know how to give more free play. Do I adjust the turnbuckle to give the rod more length or take out length? Do I adjust anything else?

[Tatback]

Neil I just read your post. I'm shortening the rod right now. I went 1/2-3/4 of an inch and now the clutch pedal wants to stick half way down and not return

[Dodgeb4ya]

Thought the noise was up front and high?

Stethescope or wood dowel will locate close area of noise...even a long screw driver held to the ear.

Throw out bearing noise should not change whether in reverse or forward gears. Wasn't the clutch, FD and trans quiet before the repairs you did....?

[Tatback]

It does sound like it's coming from right around the generator but it's very hard to tell.

The clutch, fd, and trans did seem quiet but I only drive it two miles home before taking everything apart. The only issue was it would grind pretty good when shifting into reverse or the forward gears.

[Don Coatney]

If you are adjusting a turn buckle you are adjusting the wrong thing. The turnbuckle has nothing to do with free play. The turn buckle is for adjusting the over center spring.

 

 

Free play is adjusted by rod 6-24-1 lock nut 6-24-2 and rod end 6-24-3. These are two completely different adjustments. You need to shorten the rod until the pedal moves 1 inch before the clutch fork moves.

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Locate the problem noise area 1st so you are not making this job bigger than need be just to save your sanity! JMO

[Niel Hoback]

Put the turnbuckle back where it was. Follow Don's instructions exactly. Whether or not it has anything to do with the noise, it must be done. It's the reason you had trouble shifting into gear from a stop.

[soth122003]

Hey Tat,

 

Although I can't see it well, Look at your engine and tranny mount bushing on the frame and see if they are compressed. If they are that can cause the linkage to bind and make shifting a bite. Also that clutch is way to tight, shorten the adjusting rod to add free play. After that, there should be an inspection panel on the right side of the bell housing to inspect the clutch plate, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Check them out as well.

 

Joe

[Brent B3B]

Thought the noise was up front and high?

Stethescope or wood dowel will locate close area of noise...even a long screw driver held to the ear.

Throw out bearing noise should not change whether in reverse or forward gears. Wasn't the clutch, FD and trans quiet before the repairs you did....?

a long screw driver held to the ear that is how i located a tapping noise in my fuel pump

[Tatback]

Thank you guys for all the help so far, it's so frustrating to being so close to driving it and then resetting.

I tried the screwdriver to the ear and aside from it almost slipping into the fan it seems like the noise is louder from the front of the engine than the rear... BUT I can't fully confirm this. Also when it was running I could hear it loudly from the hole where the floor board was.

Would it be easy to drop the oil pan and check the rod bearings? Or should I take the head off first?

[Tatback]

Oh and I think I adjusted the clutch exactly as told

[Don Coatney]

Oh and I think I adjusted the clutch exactly as told

And this made no difference?

 

Did you check for an exhaust leak?

[busycoupe]

Could it be an exhaust leak? Don asked if you checked the gasket between the manifolds, but it could be anywhere along the exhaust manifold or the donut connecting to the header. An exhaust leak can make a loud ticking/rapping sound and be difficult to isolate.

[TodFitch]

With the engine off and the fan belt loose, is there any play in the water pump pulley?

[Tatback]

No there didn't seem to be any play in the water pump pulley. I checked the gaskets and I think there might be a slight leak.

My brothers fiancée's dad is coming over tonight to take a look ( he builds custom hot rods )

[DJ194950]

Q. Do any of the exhaust manifold bolts come close to the valve/lifters where if the wrong length bolt is installed that it could make contact with either part?

[garbagestate 44]

This is probably not related as it does sound external,and no disrespect intended but did you re torque your head bolts hot? Mine loosened up 3 times before they settled down. I can't see how it would relate to that sound but just asking. 

[Tatback]

No disrespect taken at all, yes all the head bolts are torqued to 65. Once I put the head on I slowly stepped up the lbs to 65 then I ran the engine last night up to operating temp and checked all them again.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Does the car idle really smooth @ 500 or less?

[Tatback]

It seems to, I don't know if it's my imagination or not but I can still hear the noise... It's just very faint. My brothers father in law came over tonight and said he would come back tomorrow to help look into it further and bring some tools. When we first started it for him we couldn't hear any knocking... He then revved it and it came loud and strong... Even when it settled back down it kept tapping.

[Tatback]

And this made no difference?

 

Did you check for an exhaust leak?

I do think there's a slight intake manifold leak as the metal around the gaskets is looking like its soaked up something. And where the exhaust manifold meets the exhaust I believe there is an exhaust leak.

[55 Fargo]

So what's the verdict 48 hours later, any luck with this issue yet?

[Tatback]

So what's the verdict 48 hours later, any luck with this issue yet?

No nothing yet, I was going to work on the car last night with Kenny (brothers fiancee's dad) but we had some pretty bad storms all day and night. I'm going to order new gaskets for the exhaust as well as the intake manifold. While I'm at it and have the carb off I'll rebuild that as well since its leaking fuel from somewhere now. Noticed the other night that it was soaked. I'll probably order a new head gasket and an oil pan gasket since we'll probably tear into the engine again.