jrhoads Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 Gents, I have searched this and not found an answer and have solicited various opinions to no avail... 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe 218 and original 3 spd trans. Is it possible to remove the flywheel without pulling the engine? Thanks Quote
Merle Coggins Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 Sure. You'll have to remove the transmission and clutch. Then you will be able to remove the flywheel. Quote
jrhoads Posted September 4, 2015 Author Report Posted September 4, 2015 In theory it would seem right, but I have had others including VPW tell me that it is easier to pull the engine to get the flywheel off. That just doesn't seem logical, so I thought I would see if any here have the clear answer having done it... Thanks Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 There is no reason at all to pull the engine just to remove the flywheel say during a standard clutch job and to R&R the flywheel for surfacing. VPW is out to lunch on this question! Quote
Don Coatney Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 Yes it can be done. I do recommend you mark the flywheel to crankshaft relationship prior to removal as the bolts are not symmetrical and the flywheel will only bolt up one way. I made such marks prior to the final assembly of my engine. Quote
jrhoads Posted September 4, 2015 Author Report Posted September 4, 2015 Thanks for the pic Don. Does the oil pan | rear main need to be removed as in your pic? Quote
Ulu Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 Once the trans is out, and the flywheel cover is off, get the fork & throwout bearing off, and then the clutch and flywheel all come out the bottom. You can buy a flywheel holder to make it easier to remove the bolts, but IMO they're a PITA. If the bolts aren't too tight, you can sometimes just jamb a 2x4 between the ring gear and bellhousing. But I usually just bolt a long steel bar to the flywheel at two of the clutch cover mounting holes. 1 Quote
50fordtruck Posted September 4, 2015 Report Posted September 4, 2015 You only need to remove the rear main if you strip the threads on a flywheel bolt. I know from experience you can"t remove the bolt otherwise. 1 Quote
Ulu Posted September 5, 2015 Report Posted September 5, 2015 (edited) Hell, while yer in there, it'd probably be a good time to swap the main seal anyhow. They're cheap enough, ( and if it doesn't leak yet, it will eventually. ) 'Course you gotta drop the pan and look at all the sludge in the bottom. Edited September 5, 2015 by Ulu Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 5, 2015 Report Posted September 5, 2015 Drop the pan...? Now you may as well pull all the rod and main caps .. mike the journals, check the bearing bores, hot tank the pan,oil PU and also do an oil analysis. Hope you don't find anything worn. Nah... just do your flywheel work and move on. 1 Quote
Ulu Posted September 5, 2015 Report Posted September 5, 2015 He'll see that leak when the flywheel cover comes off. Quote
jrhoads Posted September 5, 2015 Author Report Posted September 5, 2015 The pan has been dropped a couple of times for gaskets. However the main seal is not leaking at this point although I do have one handy... I do appreciate all your advice. Quote
MarkAubuchon Posted September 6, 2015 Report Posted September 6, 2015 Let me know if you get that flywheel off. I have tried on my 49 business coupe, it seems to me, you need to pull the bell housing off. the flywheel just wont clear it Quote
jrhoads Posted September 6, 2015 Author Report Posted September 6, 2015 Ok here is an example of a conflicting report I have heard. I do appreciate all the previous comments, but if I may ask and please don't assume any disrespect, just asking...has anyone done this while on the car? 49 plymouth? Thanks Quote
Dave72dt Posted September 7, 2015 Report Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) I've pulled engines to replace the clutch and I've pulled transmissions to replace the clutch. It depends on the accessibility and number and type of fasteners, equipment I have to work with, If I had a hoist and trans jack, I'd probably remove the trans. Laying on my back, or yours, in this case,trying to work a trans back into place may make pulling the engine end up as less work. That's a really simple, and uncluttered engine compartment in that car compared to newer and more modern cars.. I won't suggest pulling the engine or the trans as preferred and easier over the other. I will suggest you take a good look at both and determine which direction will work best for you with what you have to work with for tools, equipment, surfaces to work on and your own physical abilities for lifting and maneuvering heavy pieces of iron. Edited September 7, 2015 by Dave72dt Quote
DonaldSmith Posted September 7, 2015 Report Posted September 7, 2015 I think it's easier to pull the transmission than to pull the engine. No coolant removal, no gas line and wiring disconnection (except for wiring to a semi-automatic or overdrive transmission). Get a transmission jack. Should remove the floor panel. Hint for removing the M-5 semi-automatic transmission - remove the governor, solenoid and interrupter switch. (Plug the holes.) Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 7, 2015 Report Posted September 7, 2015 A good experienced mechanic could perform this operation though the tail pipe opening...!!! !!! Quote
Don Coatney Posted September 7, 2015 Report Posted September 7, 2015 A good experienced mechanic could perform this operation though the tail pipe opening...!!! !!! With the engine running. The jaw flapping is over and it is time for action. Try it without engine removal. If you fail then pull the engine. Or pull the engine then kick yourself in the butt for not following good advice when you find it can be removed without pulling the engine. The jaw flapping is over and it is time for action. 1 Quote
jrhoads Posted September 7, 2015 Author Report Posted September 7, 2015 Easy Hoss.... The last thing in my mind was to pull the engine and still is. Hence why I asked and questioned the thought of even doing it.... Quote
P15-D24 Posted September 7, 2015 Report Posted September 7, 2015 Only thing hard about pulling the flywheel with the engine in is remounting it. It weights about 50 pounds and and an extra set of hands is really useful. 1 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 7, 2015 Report Posted September 7, 2015 You might have to tap the four bolts in for clearance... maybe. I did a job on a 46 that was tight. 1949 should be no issue. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted September 7, 2015 Report Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) non-productive comment removed. Edited September 7, 2015 by Niel Hoback Quote
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