Kansas_Nova Posted March 24, 2015 Report Posted March 24, 2015 Just bought a 1950 Dodge 3/4 ton. It has the original 218 flathead 6 with a floor shifted 3 speed. Motor and tranny are in good shape. The 218 runs but it runs real rough, it needs a basic tune up and some carb work on the Carter ball and ball 1 barrel. It's a pretty solid truck relative to the age of it. Some minor rust along the bottom edges of both doors and some on the passenger floor board. Plans for this truck are to install a new wiring harness, 12 volt conversion, get the motor in good running order, get rid of the old centerlines with the huge weather cracked mickey thompsons out back and throwing it on some steelies with whitewalls, and replace some glass to get this truck road worthy. Future plans are dakota or s10 frame swap and through a mopar v8 in it down the road, but for now just have a nice old truck to cruise around. I don't have any plans of painting it or restoring the body or painting it. I do plan on replacing the rotted out bed boards in the bed, recovering the seat and making some door panels in the same material of the seat. I've tracked down some parts for the truck as well as some other forums that might be helpful for some information but any other tips or links you all have would be great, specifically if you guys can identify what carb it is so I can get a rebuild kit for it. Anyways, here are some pictures. 4 Quote
wallytoo Posted March 24, 2015 Report Posted March 24, 2015 carb ID should be on the "triangle" flange, stamped along the top edge (your sixth picture). 1 Quote
55 Fargo Posted March 24, 2015 Report Posted March 24, 2015 Posted 2 links for carb IDs and kits on the HAMB, but will post it here for you too. http://www.riley-autoparts.com/CARBURETOR_D.html http://www.carbkitsource.com/manuals/carbmanuals/CM002.html 1 Quote
TrampSteer Posted March 24, 2015 Report Posted March 24, 2015 My '53 has the DTE1 Ball and Ball downdraft, looks just like yours. Should be stamped on the flange like Wallytoo pointed out. http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-BB-BBR1-Carburetor-Rebuild-Kit_p_56.html Quote
Kansas_Nova Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Posted March 25, 2015 Great, I appreciate the links, looking to order the brake parts and tune up parts this week to hopefully have a running, driving, stopping vehicle within the next coupe weeks whenever I find some time to go back home from school for a weekend or two. Quote
Kansas_Nova Posted February 22, 2016 Author Report Posted February 22, 2016 Is it necessary to adjust the valves with the engine running in this engine? I know it's recommended to have it running but I am curious if it will still be effective to just get the motor hot and adjust the valves. Quote
Phil363 Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) Is it necessary to adjust the valves with the engine running in this engine? I know it's recommended to have it running but I am curious if it will still be effective to just get the motor hot and adjust the valves. My B-3-B shop manual says valve tappets should be adjusted with the engine running at normal temperature on page 264 However, the service section in my manual shows that it can be adjusted when cold on page 238. One note is that in the tech section on this forum for valve adjustments has different number(s) for both intake and exhaust valves then my shop manual ... From my shop manual I will use the .010 for Intake and .014 for the Exhaust when the engine is running at normal temps. Cold setting is .014 ... So my plan is to adjust to the cold settings first (to get them into the ball park) and then I will be doing a final adjustment while running at normal temps. Here is a good link that I will be using from this forum later when I get to this event on my rebuild: http://p15-d24.com/topic/39909-valve-adjustment-nervous/page-1 Most importantly ... See Post#2 from Merle Coggins on the link above. There is also of YouTube video of him adjusting the valves while running the engine on Post #1 on the link above. Phil Edited February 23, 2016 by Phil363 2 Quote
NiftyFifty Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 I tried setting mine running hot....what a horrible job, and my first time I didn't even have any body panels on...my second crack after a few weeks and a few new ticks was through the fender well....no way...I just got it hot and made minor adjustments and started it again. I know it supposed to be done not running, but that's a talent that is just about lost....wear long sleeves that don't melt Quote
wallytoo Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) i'd never done it before i adjusted mine. removed the inner fender panel. used standard wrenches (not tappet wrenches). wore leather gloves and a "shop" jacket. it's easier than i thought it would be. took longer to remove the inner fender than it did to adjust the valves. edit: this was on a hot, running engine. Edited February 22, 2016 by wallytoo 2 Quote
Kansas_Nova Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Posted February 23, 2016 That's odd that the spec for both valves when cold is .014' but only the Intake valve has a smaller spec when hot. One would figure that thermal expansion would act more on the exhaust valve. Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 when you work the engine the exhaust valve will get hotter proportionally than the intake and expand more, therefore the extra clearance Quote
48Dodger Posted March 1, 2016 Report Posted March 1, 2016 These might help: video one video two Both feature my good friend Merle Coggins Tim aka 48Dodger 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted March 1, 2016 Report Posted March 1, 2016 These might help: video one video two Both feature my good friend Merle Coggins Tim aka 48Dodger all I saw was paint being scratched! 1 Quote
48Dodger Posted March 1, 2016 Report Posted March 1, 2016 (edited) all I saw was paint being scratched! Ok...yeah, I saw that too. lol But Merle was willing to make that sacrifice to bring knowledge!! 48D Edited March 1, 2016 by 48dodger Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted March 1, 2016 Report Posted March 1, 2016 all I saw was paint being scratched! That is called being real. It is a truck after all........and should show signs of use and maintenance. That is normal.........and at sixty plus years it needs to be there even if it has been "restored". When I see old trucks without this sort of wear and tear I never even give them a second look. An old truck should never be immaculate.......that is just wrong. Shows a lack of character and looks abby-normal. Jeff 2 Quote
Todd B Posted March 1, 2016 Report Posted March 1, 2016 That is called being real. It is a truck after all........and should show signs of use and maintenance. That is normal.........and at sixty plus years it needs to be there even if it has been "restored". When I see old trucks without this sort of wear and tear I never even give them a second look. An old truck should never be immaculate.......that is just wrong. Shows a lack of character and looks abby-normal. Jeff I totally agree. But you know that Mark is throwing his beer darts at a picture of your truck right now!!!!!!!!!! He's pretty sensitive that way. Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted March 1, 2016 Report Posted March 1, 2016 I totally agree. But you know that Mark is throwing his beer darts at a picture of your truck right now!!!!!!!!!! He's pretty sensitive that way. No worries... He can throw those silly darts at me if he wants to. I won't even be offended. Jeff I don't (and can't) own anything without a scratch or some sort of damage. Never have...never will. Quote
Desotodav Posted March 1, 2016 Report Posted March 1, 2016 I got a scratch in the bumper of my blue truck whilst moving stuff around recently.... so that would have to count hey Jeff? I had to send the bumper off for re-painting, so I seized the opportunity to paint the bumper for the coupe truck too. Things have been busy at my shed of late with a lot of stuff (including trucks and parts) being moved around. I hope to have the others in there soon.. Quote
Dave72dt Posted March 1, 2016 Report Posted March 1, 2016 From what I've seen., there's any number of newer trucks that have never had anything in the bed either. Nothing wrong with a nice looking old truck and I don't intend to purposely leave "character marks" in mine. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted March 1, 2016 Report Posted March 1, 2016 That is called being real. It is a truck after all........and should show signs of use and maintenance. That is normal.........and at sixty plus years it needs to be there even if it has been "restored". When I see old trucks without this sort of wear and tear I never even give them a second look. An old truck should never be immaculate.......that is just wrong. Shows a lack of character and looks abby-normal. Jeff To each their own. You are wrong, but entitled to your opinion! 1 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted March 2, 2016 Report Posted March 2, 2016 To each their own. You are wrong, but entitled to your opinion! If you say so..........when I look at these all I see are old work trucks. Jeff Quote
ggdad1951 Posted March 2, 2016 Report Posted March 2, 2016 If you say so..........when I look at these all I see are old work trucks. Jeff I see history and if left to rot and rust they will be gone. SOME have to be left show floor clean for the future! 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 2, 2016 Report Posted March 2, 2016 ggdad1951, on 02 Mar 2016 - 09:38 AM, said:I see history and if left to rot and rust they will be gone. SOME have to be left show floor clean for the future! that is what photographs and museums are for... Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted March 2, 2016 Report Posted March 2, 2016 We have gone way off topic here. Maybe we should start another thread? Apologies to the OP. Jeff Quote
48Dodger Posted March 2, 2016 Report Posted March 2, 2016 We have gone way off topic here. Maybe we should start another thread? Apologies to the OP. Jeff Haha...I tried to do just that.....I felt responsible.. 48D new thread Quote
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