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Phil363 last won the day on December 23 2015

Phil363 had the most liked content!


About Phil363

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 01/03/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Getting the vehicle running as a daily driver
  • My Project Cars
    1952 Dodge B-3-B 108 218ci 3.6L high-side pickup

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    just bought a 1952 B-3-B pickup
  • Occupation

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  1. Give the guys a call at DCM classics as they also rebuild steering gear boxes. Prices start at $300. Here is the link: https://dcmclassics.com/home/644-s-280-steering-column-gear-box-rebuilt.html?
  2. Looking at your last photo (I also rotated it 180 degrees) I can clearly make out a stamped number 3 .. and what "maybe" a second character of 5 and third character of 4. So perhaps it is a 3.54 3rd Member. If that is accurate ... you keep what you have and look at other options to increase speed for the highways. To confirm your ratio look at a second location where it also may be stamped on the outside ... see my second photo below .. it is a flat area right next to the fill plug that Plymouthy Adams mentioned in post #10. The last location where it will be is on the main gear inside the 3rd Member itself. (Follow JB's recommendation before you remove a 3rd member) My third photo shows where is it stamped on the main gear ... highlighted in red.
  3. I received my Hollander manual in early and it shows the interchange for the different Distros for our trucks. Photo 2 just shows para 768 is the one to look under for the 48-56 B&C series 1/2-3/4T vehicles. I would recommend you look up your engine seriel number to confirm the year of the engine and what model truck it goes into if you have not already. Mine was not the original engine .. I was led to believe by the previous owner that it was/maybe a 1950 engine when in fact it was T306 serial number with a production date of late May 1952 that went in either a B3 or B4 series truck. Photo 3 shows the distros that go into each year model engine. The note for para 768 shows that your current Distro will fit any year pilothouse ...
  4. Not sure of any "New" aftermarket distributors that fit our old flathead 6's. There is always E-bay .. I picked up a IAT-4101 as a backup for my truck distributor incase it ever breaks down. Here is a link were you can have your existing one rebuilt .. kind of "Pricey" ..... https://hagensautoparts.com/dodge-truck/41-electrical/15367 There are also other model Distros that will fit / work with your engine .. other members may know which ones. I ordered a Hollander Interchange Classic Search Manual II for all Domestic 1946 - 1956 cars and trucks ... but will not have it for another week or so. Phil
  5. Paul they do get rusty but they clean up well. Mine was only putting out a trickle of juice before I broke it down and cleaned it up. Almost did not want to put it together ... all those shinny parts are just nice to look at
  6. I have an autolite catalog listing the generators for each year model Dodge back in the 40's to 50's ... Will check it tonight to see what info it has on this model. Evening UPDATE: I have attached 3 photos. The first photo is of a GGW-6001K with a data plate stamped with the 40 amps rating. If you check the Part number in my photo against yours you will notice they are the same. So yours is also a 40 amps generator. Not sure why some data plates have the amps rating and some do not The Auto-Lite catalog shows which 1951-52 B series Dodge trucks your Generator goes into. ​Note: The Model GGW-6001K also went into some cars ... 1951- 52 Desoto S15; 1951-52 Dodge D41 & D42 My B-3-B Shop Manual shows that the Generator has a Max charging rate of 45 Amps. However, I believe that the normal charging rate of all of the GGW-6001 series generators is 40 amps. ​The PO of my truck switched out the engine and generator so I do not have my original GGW-6001K that should be in it. I currently have a GGW-6001B model which is stamped 40 amps on the data plate. ​Hope this helps.
  7. I found the link you mentioned above (and forum member oldmopar in a Nov 2008 post) very useful to first understanding how bolts are graded and the markings that identify each type of bolt and nut etc ... They have all of the bolts I have so far identified on my Dodge as I go my collection of baggies full of rusted nuts and bolts. The baggies were recommended by several members here and have kept me on track storing all of my small parts. Have been using my Trucks parts manual to find the correct size for the cab, door, fender bolts and then ordering then from here. Going mostly stainless steel for the 5/16 and 3/8 bolts and nuts. Will go with the grade 5 or 8 were required on my project. Phil
  8. Photos of the rebuild process from the tear down phase to through the rebuild phase.
  9. This is the key that was in my original ignition switch in my 1952 Dodge B-3-B when I bought the truck. It is a Brass HURD Key that fits both my ignition and passenger side door lock. I did a little research and the HURD keys for the late 1940"s to the 1950's in Dodge and Plymouth vehicles look exactly like mine. HURD is also considered a vintage automotive Key; So I suspect this is the original key for my truck based upon the photos I just looked at. PS: The key metal had a lot of corrosion and was very dark so I got my can of BRASO and shined it up for the photos.
  10. Brent, Thanks for posting #8 above a few years ago on www.amkproducts.com. While I have about 8 original J-Nuts that I could clean up like the one in my photos I found it simpler for me to just buy all new ones. I tested them out on my fenders, floor pan, and the cowl where the center hood section connects and they fit in all areas easily. I liked that the new ones are stamped T 56-24 just like the original ones. Phil
  11. Mark, from which vendor above did you order the washers that were spot on from .. Mcmaster or Wclco? Just stocking up on the bolts/nuts (mostly 18-8 Grade stainless steel) for fenders, grill, floor boards, Cab etc .., and of course these 'internal tooth periphery washers' Phil
  12. Congratulations on a great deal. Some Great and some Good deals can be had on E-bay from time to time ... I got my Dodge B-series hood ornament for $29 .... many were there but most want over a $100 for them.
  13. See post # 3 here. http://p15-d24.com/topic/30871-finding-external-bypass-thermostat/ Napa carried them last year and I bought both a 160 and 180. You may need to call them as I could not see them on the NAPA website this morning. My engine head has an internal water bypass. However, the thermostat housing I have is for an external water bypass .. so I bought both the THM 155 and THM 55 from NAPA on 29 Jan 2016.
  14. Merle, I found this old posting of yours and Bulldog Tom's very useful as my 52 Hood was the last part I needed to break down. The only difference I had to change for the hood was that the tabs were bent out to lock the hood side pieces to the center. I just rolled them in and slide the sides off. Phil
  15. This is a future project for me as well. I have often been curious how a vertical dent was put in the Driver's side door by a previous owner on my project .. now I know. Merle's recommendation is what I had planned on doing when I get to this part of rebuild ....
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