DJ194950 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Think you'll find flat glass cut to fit is cheaper than the lexan you talk about. Most glass shops that do auto glass carry it and cut it, pretty easy to do. Nice panel, good luck. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Pressure washed: The floor What are these? What is this knob/pedal? Dash The tag http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w376/NGRYBRD/20140907_140037_zpsmcvhgnid.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 The starter solenoid, turn the key press the knob and gas at the same time..vvvvrroooommm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Show us the hidden compartment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Wow that's cool. I love the ingenuity in the 50s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Bucket seats, now that is rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Here's the cover of the compartment which is awkwardly under the left leg of the passenger seat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 And here's the inside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 It is in nice shape! Looks like you have a set of radiator struts / hood supports for that year model truck. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Ahhh ok. So the long bars go from the firewall to the rad. Support just like a jeep? And the short bars "unclick" from the bracket to act as a prop rod? That makes sense. Anyone have a picture of one in action? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Like Jeff said, the two middle pieces are the radiator support struts and hood props. The curved pipe on the left I can't identify. The latch mechanism on the right I suspect may be for one of you back doors. Lookin' good. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 There is another thread on the firewall tag. Basically tells you the type of cab and a serial number for the cab of that style. My guess the compartment ead for the jack and such since you don't have the bench seat to hide stuff under. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Welcome to the forum Tom. What a great looking van! I've attached an old forum photo of hood prop from Dennis MN. I think that the other pieces in your photo look like the rear door latch bars. I tried to find a photo of the rear doors in my suburban van but the photo is just too narrow to show the latch bars. I like the fact that you are keeping the patina point. I'll be watching your project with interest as I hope to eventually find a van in good condition here in Oz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Thanks Desoto thats just the picture i needed ill have to come up with a little rubber pad for the end of the prop rods. and i think i under stand about the rear door latch. now i just have to work out a door handle and ill fab up something to get it working. our control cabinet at work have a very similar style square drive rod that i think i can make work. so i have another question. on all the suggested parts sources, it seems b-series pickups are pretty easy to get a lot of parts for. but panels is a different story. well everything from the front half will work for me and fortunately i have most of what i need for the back half, but those are the parts that are hard to find. short of the door handle, and ill also need the rubber window seals. because of the lack of parts, im wondering is there some rarity to this truck compared to the pickups? also, on window seals. i found a good post suggesting Roberts, Clesters and Steele. Steele is way out of my price range for this project, the other two are better but i was looking at the broken glass i have, and the rubber that still exsists for the back widow and on my 67 mustang, its essentially the exact same rubber type piece. for that windshield i found a "universal" roll of rubber with that profile for installing glass. but i cant for the life of me find that again. doesnt anyone know of a good universal glass to sheet metal rubber that will work for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Don't use a "universal" seal for the windshield. You want the correct seal with the molded in center rubber to reduce seams that can leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 oh ya, definitely clesters is part number 8230-ws correct for $65? and roberts is t347 for $70? which of those two do you guys prefer? theres no way im paying 165at steele rubber... i meant for the back windows. i cant seem to locate panel truck rear window seals (plenty of pickup rear window seals, except for at steele and at $140 and i need 2 of them... no thanks. on the cowl seal, is a generic rubber tube type weather stripping glued under the cowl vent panel sufficient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 I think I got my cowl vent seal from Frank Mitchel. I don't know if his business is still in operation as I believe he passed away not long ago. Not sure who else has them, but I would assume you could "make due" with some generic product. I believe you are correct on the back windows. I wouldn't be surprised if nobody offered them for a Panel truck. A generic molding would probably work just fine for that. I got all my glass rubber from Steele. I've been very happy with the quality except for the vent window rubbers, which never fit right and don't seal. I also had to add urethane sealant between the windshield glass and rubber molding, as well as between the rubber and cab metal, to keep it from leaking water. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Roberts has the vent seals. For what it is worth these glass seals are an very important part of preserving the truck. Leaking windows can do a lot of damage over time. I am bringing this up because doing this correctly is a lot of work. You should expect to have to use sealer of some type and it should all be tested as you go. Ask me how I know. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) ya, saying you need sealant on even the steele ones definitely doesn't justify that price to me. so i think ill go with the clesters or the Roberts, but with a good butyl type sealant in the glass groove. do you think it needs it in the sheet metal groove too? your point about leaking windows causing alot of damage, is something i know too well, so i think my priority is getting the cab all sealed up before winter so it at least wont get any worse, then ill get it runing in the spring (or pull the motor befor ei park it and tinker with it in my garage this winter) also, whats the story on installing the rubber seals? is there a tool or trick to do it just right? from what ive read its kinda like a firewall grommet put the rubber onto the window, start the sheetmetal in at one corner, then a flat head screw driver dragging along the rubber to pull it over the sheet metal all the way around. maybe ill sacrifice a narrow putty knife, heat it up and put a bend in it so i can slide it around the rubber easier. well a quick youtube found this, using a cord to pull the rubber over the sheetmetal. awesome idea! Edited September 8, 2014 by ngrybrd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 now that i think ive got the seals figured out, i just have to make up the lexan. any insight on getting the engine running? from the pic i posted whats missing? what steps should i take? based on the one piece of windshield i have, it was last inspected in 1993. i think i want to start with checking wiring, to make sure it wont catch on fire. and reinstall the belts and fan. hook up the radiator, check out the gas tank, to make sure its not full of gunk. change the fuel lines. anything i have to do to make it work on unleaded gas? also this should be a 6v system correct? so ill have to find a battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 For engine evaluation follow logical steps. Follow this link and read up on what to do. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=how+to+start+an+engine+that+has+been+sitting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Thanks don, ive actually used all the info on most of those links several times on various engines. ive just never done it on an engine this old or of this style, was looking more for tips or parts to check thats specific to flat head 6s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Why are you insistent on Lexan for windshields? Any decent auto glass shop can cut new pieces of flat laminated glass with the proper DOT certification etching as long as you have a pattern to work with. You'll be much happier in the long run. Lexan has a tendency to get cloudy over time from the UV light, and it scratches much easier. If you're familiar with points ignition systems and general engine principals then there's nothing out of the ordinary here. These engines are pretty simple. Use the Distributor number when buying your points, cap, rotor, and etc. There were a few different Autolite distributors used over the years and if you just try to purchase by model year and vehicle model you may get the wrong stuff. These engines do have a tendency for sticking valves that may need to be freed up, but other than that it's not all that much different than any other engine. Yes, it originally was a 6 volt system so unless someone did a conversion you'll want a 6 volt battery. Check the tag on the generator to be certain. A red tag means it's still 6 volt. The 12 volt generators have green tags. Also, this would have been a Positive Ground system, so be sure to connect your battery correctly. You also need to use good quality battery cables. They should be no smaller than 1 gauge. 0 or 00 is preferred. 6 volt systems need more current flow so you need cables that can handle that. Merle Edited September 8, 2014 by Merle Coggins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 thanks merle, that's the kind of thing i was looking for, the positive ground thing wouldve messed me up for sure. and knowing they had a tendecy for sticky valves will give me a better starting point. also i only have a liking for lexan because i have plenty of 1/4" scrap lying around from a previous project. and with a baby on the way and winter around the corner, i just want to get the vehicle winter storage ready for as cheap as possible. so free windows and minimal in rubber gaskets, that'll be all i need for now. and i can get a real windshield cut and swap it out later on, once i get the rest of the truck road worthy. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngrybrd Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 (edited) OK, so while waiting for my various seals to arrive, ive started looking to get this thing running. im waiting for a 6v battery to come in at pepboys. and ive found replacement ignition keys/cylinders but my question is, how do i get the old cylinder out without the key? ive searched the forum high and low for this but all i found was "turn the key, push the button" without the key to turn it how do i do it? are they old key cylinders easy enough to get to turn with a screwdriver without damaging the housing? Edited September 10, 2014 by ngrybrd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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