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Wise Way Tu Shows the 1950 Dodge Line Up


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Another exciting Dodge Truck Film!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4slGC_WpFwU

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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These films teach us a lot of things we never knew!

 

Wise Way Tu teaches only us things important we need to know ... :lol:

 

1 tons use the 230 as the 1/2 and 3/4 use the 218 engine say Wise Way.

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very cool film Bob.

being 6'4",  i enjoy the cab breakdown and i had to chuckle at the 2" extra leg room :lol:  

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These films teach us a lot of things we never knew!

 

Wise Way Tu teaches only us things important we need to know ... :lol:

 

1 tons use the 230 as the 1/2 and 3/4 use the 218 engine say Wise Way.

 

 

 

Ah so! Say so on Serial number and license data chart in B series manual.

Wise Way Tu never lie. He say start over restoration......truck not Job Rated.

 

So Sorry.....  :angry:

 

 

where?  Parts manual says the B, C and D all use the same block PN 1326 828

 

If Wise Wu correct, might explain why I think FEF is a little underpowered...

 

2011-09-12160353.jpg

Edited by ggdad1951
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Mark;

The first page in the B-3 series manual I have has a chart labelled "Serial Numbers and License Data". According to it your 1 ton should clearly have a 230.

 

Jeff

 

man...I guess it's too late now, no desire to drop another 2-3K on the truck, maybe if the engine craps out someday...but that WOULD explain the underpower.  Can you send me a pic of the manual?

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Mark

I don't have access to a scanner at the moment........but your build card shows a T310 engine which is a 230.

Do you have a different engine from what is on the build card? I can't say for certain how much difference it makes but I have a 54 230 in my 3/4 ton and it seems pretty peppy.

 

Jeff

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ah crap...yah the engine in FEF was a replacement (actually a non serial numbered) car engine with "Hy-Drive"  (that weird oil tube gave a clue). Jeff said something about a 230 WAY back in that thread (who knew he was foretelling a 230 should be in my truck?)  Stupid question what are the differences between the 218 and 230?

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/30092-oil-pan-swap-car-pan-for-a-truck-pan-and-mystery-tubesholes/?hl=tube

 

My guess is that the 230 would give FEF more pep for being heavier than the 3/4 and 1/2 tonners.

Edited by ggdad1951
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Mark,

Try to find a chrysler 265 six and put that in it. You will never be happier. I put one in my truck in 1974 and have enjoyed the torque and power ever since-and boy....what a smooth quiet engine!

Way better than a 230!

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I should have told Wise Way to not mention engine sizes :mellow:

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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Just goes to show that Wise Way Tu is still alive and doing his job. :)

Even if Mark had to get some egg foo yung on his face in the process. Mark is a very thorough and talented guy......and even he missed this.

 

This should be a good lesson for those just starting out with their projects of the importance of a thorough review of all available documentation. Wherever possible a good read through the printed manual(s) is best. You are not likely to do that if all you do is look things up online. Having a printed copy and referring to it often you will see things you never even notice when staring at a computer screen. I was guilty of this practice early on in my project. After getting the egg on my face more than a few times I went back to basics which I knew would help. Get the best available books and read them. They are full of clues and information that may not seem relevant at first. You might be able to get what you need for some things online but I feel certain you will miss some important details along the way.

 

These trucks are now 60 plus years old......and most are not exactly as they left the factory. Stuff has been changed or modified whether we know it or not. In order to put something like this back in order we sometimes have to play detective. Look for clues...keep our eyes open....and even listen to Wise Way Tu. The old "Ways" are still valid after all.

 

Jeff

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And it doesn't matter too much that they are not as from the factory.

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Just goes to show that Wise Way Tu is still alive and doing his job. :)

Even if Mark had to get some egg foo yung on his face in the process. Mark is a very thorough and talented guy......and even he missed this.

 

This should be a good lesson for those just starting out with their projects of the importance of a thorough review of all available documentation. Wherever possible a good read through the printed manual(s) is best. You are not likely to do that if all you do is look things up online. Having a printed copy and referring to it often you will see things you never even notice when staring at a computer screen. I was guilty of this practice early on in my project. After getting the egg on my face more than a few times I went back to basics which I knew would help. Get the best available books and read them. They are full of clues and information that may not seem relevant at first. You might be able to get what you need for some things online but I feel certain you will miss some important details along the way.

 

These trucks are now 60 plus years old......and most are not exactly as they left the factory. Stuff has been changed or modified whether we know it or not. In order to put something like this back in order we sometimes have to play detective. Look for clues...keep our eyes open....and even listen to Wise Way Tu. The old "Ways" are still valid after all.

 

Jeff

 

Yah, I restored what was there..no idea (at the time) there were different engines.  Maybe this will help educate others doing D size restos.

 

Still curious on the differences between the 230 and 218.

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Still curious on the differences between the 230 and 218.

12 :) Seriously though 12CI and a litttle gain in HP and probably torque.

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And it doesn't matter too much that they are not as from the factory.

I agree once you know and understand what it is you have to work with. For some of us... myself included who don't have a life times experience working on these engines gaining this knowledge can take some time and real detective work. The very fact that they are all fairly similar in appearance and easily interchanged is often the thing that will trick one of us novice L6 mechanics into thinking we have one thing when in fact we have another. Not knowing exactly what we have can result in a lot of frustration when looking for parts or technical data.

 

As I read through the posts in this forum I have noticed that there are several new members who like me are fairly new to these old mopar trucks. I have also seen where they have been advised to not bother with getting the printed manuals. Just go online and get what you need for free. I don't believe that this is very wise advice. It may work well if you are looking for a specific setting or procedure but I think it is a much better thing to have the printed manuals etc....and give them a good old fashioned read. There is all sorts of information in them that can prove useful to each owner as he get's deeper into his project. Again I think that it is very important to really know and understand what you actually have to work with.

 

Jeff

Mark I think it stands to reason the difference in power between these two engines is going to be noticeable. It is a matter of percentages. You can't look at it like you would a modern vehicle where 5 or 10 HP makes little or no difference. In one of these trucks you will feel the difference. Back in the 70's when I raced dirt bikes we all clamored for any gains we could get. You can believe me when I tell you that a 5% gain was very noticeable......and that would hold true with one of these trucks as well.

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yah I know it'd make that little "pep" of a difference.  Since the blocks are the same, no one will know unless I tell them, so it is what it is.  As Tim explained it to me the difference is HP and such all from a different crank and piston arms.

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Mark & All;

My comments here have been made to in an effort to underline the importance of having all the information in printed form in front of you. And to take the time to go through it and understand what we each have to start with. I have made these comments as I know all to well what can happen if we assume or make uninformed decisions. Believe me I have made plenty. :( Hopefully some of our new members will benefit from all this.

I am certainly not trying to say you need to change anything or to belittle your work. I know you to be a very thorough and more than competent fellow.  You are far more talented than I.

 

Jeff

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yah I know it'd make that little "pep" of a difference.  Since the blocks are the same, no one will know unless I tell them, so it is what it is.  As Tim explained it to me the difference is HP and such all from a different crank and piston arms.

 

So the only difference between the two are only the crank and piston arms( rod bolts-from another earlier post) ??  :rolleyes:

DJ

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Different piston arms and some design differences on the piston arm caps.....218's arm caps cut for lock washers and later 230's I think ? ......  

dropped the piston arm cap lock washers and cut piston arm cap lock washer groove.

 

Just some more minor 218/230 differences :rolleyes:

 

Anyone confused yet?

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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Are the valves the same?  I vaguely remember when I did the valve job on mine a few years back that the NOS exh set that I had for a 218 were smaller and wouldn't work.  I ended up taking a sample of one exh to the machinist and he was able to match them up by size - not application.  The guides were the same.  Does that sound right?  I either had (probably still have) a mislabled NOS set of valves, or there was something different about them.

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