Oil pan swap (car pan for a truck pan) and mystery tubes/holes

[ggdad1951]

so we took several hours to swap out the car oil pan for the truck oil pan. I got WAY to friendly with my buddies as we contorted to get the car pan off w/o taking the drag link off. Quite the PITA!

NOW, I called Ed and Hank and niether seemed to have an answer for me on this. On the rear of the block (see picture) passenger side was a tube threaded into the block with a small hole bored in near the threads. Seems almost like a oil dump line into the sump? Ed says no such critter on the engine he took the pan off for me from. The tube wouldn't fit with the truck pan so we just left it off, hoping that was the right answer.

Any ideas guys?

[Young Ed]

My theory they didn't know what to do with the dipstick tube from the proper oil pan and thought it needed a new home.....

honestly I've never seen such a thing and cant imagine what it would even do.

[HanksB3B]

Mark,

Oddly enough Parts Manual P-259 is the only page showing an image of the engine. Other than the dual carbs I do notice the "flat" oil pan I assume is what your removed one looks like is that correct?

What type of engine does your engine serial number indicate it is for? Car, truck, industrial? Is it a 23" or 25" block?

Pipe 10-22-30 is called "Pipe Drain" on P-289.

Although you say "The tube wouldn't fit with the truck pan so we just left it off", I'm wondering with the pipe removed, if oil that would normally drain through the "pipe" is now free to drip into the pan?

I'm hoping your pan is installed, engine running and operating temperature is normal.

Hank

P.S. I think after a rebuild, just for the record, L6 owners should chart temperatures with a laser temperature gauge. It would serve as a good future reference.

[Merle Coggins]

I don't remember anything like that in my engine. Also, if you look at the listing Hank posted for that pipe it is only for the larger trucks, R,T,V,& Y models, which would use the larger 33" engine.

[HanksB3B]

I don't either Merle. That's why I'm asking what the serial number of the engine is.

Wondering,

Hank

[Plymouthy Adams]

would that be to eliminate any excessive oil splash and aeriation on the return of oil from the pressure regulator?

[Young Ed]

would that be to eliminate any excessive oil splash and aeriation on the return of oil from the pressure regulator?

I dont think so its on the opposite side from the oil galley. Thats what makes it so confusing.

[Jeff Balazs]

I am sure I saw some photos of a 230 engine somewhere with the same sort of oil pan as in the exploded view. Perhaps it had a similar arrangement?

Jeff

[Plymouthy Adams]

I dont think so its on the opposite side from the oil galley. Thats what makes it so confusing.

thanks Ed..the exploded view does not give me much to go on..just a WAG is all..so being the opposide side would this again be just a smooth return of the oil from the lifter gallery?

we need someone here to install a gut twisting 413 straight 6 into a P15..now that would be a retro thread of giant proportion..lets see..add about 18 inches in the cowl section (tunneled of course) and move along from there..any takers..Buelller??

[Merle Coggins]

I like your thinking, Tim. But we may have to start with a Chrysler straight 8 car with a longer engine compartment.

Merle

[48Dodger]

I would think its a solution for safe passage of the oil back to the pick up tube. The crank case pressure must have been a problem in the bigger trucks due to higher dynamic compression. I bet you don't see a oil pressure problem long as you dont make a habit of pull huge payloads.

48D

[ggdad1951]

thanks guys, remember this engine has no number! I have NO idea what it is except that:

It was set up as a car engine

It's a 218

thats pretty much ALL I know!

Got the AMSOIL in today (nod to Hank) and started him up and oil pressure came right back up.

All we figured is it was a oil return tube to reduce splash in the sump area, which some of you have suggested.

[Young Ed]

Mark can you post the casting # and date found along the drivers side pan rail?

[54Illinois]

I would wager the motor might have been used in a car with the Hy Drive transmission. The tube was for transferring oil thru the block back into the transmission. The Hy Drive and 218 motor required 10 quarts of oil. Hopefully there is a flush plug on the back of the motor...

[Plymouthy Adams]

the Hy Drive theory is probably bang on..the oil flow as described in the book say the oil is returned on that side of the block through a pipe into the oil pan below oil level to prevent frothing..now makea close inpection of the pipe as it has a small saw cut to prevent syphoning..if the saw cut if there..you have your answer..

[wallytoo]

would the hole suffice?

.now makea close inpection of the pipe as it has a small saw cut to prevent syphoning..if the saw cut if there..you have your answer..

a tube threaded into the block with a small hole bored in near the threads.

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes..a hole would suffice..anything to vent so to prevent syphoning..it is only a return line and needs only to function in that respect..and being near the threads..yes, location is correct..I would prefer a hole over a saw cut..a saw cut would weaken the pipes structure in my opinion..a hole is far more sensible..could be an upgrade..lol

you should see a flush plug fitted on the block up inside the bell housing with hopefully some sealer there..also the supply on the other side is plugged also..I have read somewhere the blocks can be retro fitted back to a standard..but have never seen it..

Edited July 27, 2012 by Tim Adams

[ggdad1951]

Mark can you post the casting # and date found along the drivers side pan rail?

remember...that is BLANK!

[ggdad1951]

yes..a hole would suffice..anything to vent so to prevent syphoning..it is only a return line and needs only to function in that respect..and being near the threads..yes, location is correct..I would prefer a hole over a saw cut..a saw cut would weaken the pipes structure in my opinion..a hole is far more sensible..could be an upgrade..lol

you should see a flush plug fitted on the block up inside the bell housing with hopefully some sealer there..also the supply on the other side is plugged also..I have read somewhere the blocks can be retro fitted back to a standard..but have never seen it..

huh, well we didn't put the pipe back in as it didn't seem to go anwhere...I do have a few, what I think at least, odd plugs on that block....guess that's the mystery solved!

[Plymouthy Adams]

54Illionis called it..I just went looking for the documentation...he gets the credit on this one..

[Young Ed]

remember...that is BLANK!

Not the serial # pad the casting #. I think all blocks have one down by the distributor.

[Dodgeb4ya]

That long pipe is the Hy-Drive torque converter excessive oil pressure (over 20lbs) dump pipe. The pipe extends below the engine oil pan level to prevent oil frothing.

A Hy-Drive thing.

Bob

[ggdad1951]

Not the serial # pad the casting #. I think all blocks have one down by the distributor.

A1 with 5148 or 5146 below it.

There is also a plug in the side of the casting right below the oil filter lines, about a 1/2" NPT thread sized plug in it.

[ggdad1951]

That long pipe is the Hy-Drive torque converter excessive oil pressure (over 20lbs) dump pipe. The pipe extends below the engine oil pan level to prevent oil frothing.

A Hy-Drive thing.

Bob

seems I have an "extra" if anyone needs one!

[ggdad1951]

A1 with 5148 or 5146 below it.

There is also a plug in the side of the casting right below the oil filter lines, about a 1/2" NPT thread sized plug in it.

well Ed?