Desotodav Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 I took two straight 20' 2x6's and laid them parallel from the rear tires forward, then I set my front tires accordingly. May have just got lucky but it drives straight like a train. You've got it covered in the 'specialty tools' department Paul - from matchboxes to tweezers to planks of wood! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 You've got it covered in the 'specialty tools' department Paul - from matchboxes to tweezers to planks of wood! Don't forget the torch........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 When I was a kid if I wanted something I had to make it. Made my own toys, one horsepower hot rod, mud bricks reinforced with straw, caves and tunnels in the baled hay stacks, everything except my bed. So to make tools comes naturally. Instructions for front tire allaignment: all tires same age and size, equal air pressure in all tires, measure distances to the planks from the same tread line, confirm parallel planks, adjust tie rod ends as per SERVICE MANUAL settings. Don't need rocket science to work on non rocket vehical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 Hey Paul; Well if you have read through the alignment procedure for these trucks you will know that all you have done is one small part of the full job. So yes maybe you did get lucky? Or there still could be a fair amount that needs correcting. I really think having this properly checked and corrected as required is one of the smartest things we can have done. God only knows how far off spec some of these trucks are.....and if they have been stripped down for restoration or modifications (like removing springs) then it ought to be a mandatory step in the process. Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 (edited) To all: When I 'built' this the first time I: had all the tie rod ends checked by a professional source who ok'd them, then I had new king pins set on a jig so the two were perfect to each other and I had the same person check the axle ends for wear. All was reassembled accordingly with Rusty Hope's disc brake set. So I have in no way skimped on the front end. All hangers are good and greased and the ends of all springs were good as well. I also put in a dual chamber master cylinder and all new steel brake lines and all new connections. I have very good brakes and two matching new tires on the front and very good tires on the rear. Now if I could update the driver accordingly I'd have a full case! Corrected: Ball joints to tie rod ends. Edited April 17, 2015 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 To all: When I 'built' this the first time I: had all the ball joints checked by a professional source who ok'd them, then I had new king pins set on a jig so the two were perfect to each other and I had the same person check the axle ends for wear. All was reassembled accordingly with Rusty Hope's disc brake set. So I have in no way skimped on the front end. All hangers are good and greased and the ends of all springs were good as well. I also put in a dual chamber master cylinder and all new steel brake lines and all new connections. I have very good brakes and two matching new tires on the front and very good tires on the rear. Now if I could update the driver accordingly I'd have a full case! If you paid to get those ball joints checked you got scammed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 To all: When I 'built' this the first time I: had all the ball joints checked by a professional source who ok'd them, then I had new king pins set on a jig so the two were perfect to each other and I had the same person check the axle ends for wear. All was reassembled accordingly with Rusty Hope's disc brake set. So I have in no way skimped on the front end. All hangers are good and greased and the ends of all springs were good as well. I also put in a dual chamber master cylinder and all new steel brake lines and all new connections. I have very good brakes and two matching new tires on the front and very good tires on the rear. Now if I could update the driver accordingly I'd have a full case! Paul; I was not trying to say anything other than this.......unless you go through the entire alignment procedure in sequence with the correct tools you don't really know if it is all within spec. If this has not been performed by someone who understands the entire procedure about all you can really say is that it either feels Ok or it doesn't. May not be rocket science but it is fairly important for a variety of reasons......and I think one of those jobs that tends to get put off or ignored. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 For a stock front end in new or good condition, there are really no adjustments needed other than toe-in/out. If you have a bent axle, than that's another story. The shop manual has all the specs. To adjust toe, simply get a helper and a steel tape. Measure to the tire tread, front band back, aligned with the spindle. The center link can also be moved left or right by screwing in or out at each tie rod, separately, to center the steering. In theory, though, if you start threading the center link on both tie rods at the same time it should be pretty close. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 Hey Dolly, did you get all the above? Lol. Out there on those long straight roads, when you get that truck up to SPEED, you'll want a safe front suspension for chasing those "road runners"! Lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 Paul; I was not trying to say anything other than this.......unless you go through the entire alignment procedure in sequence with the correct tools you don't really know if it is all within spec. If this has not been performed by someone who understands the entire procedure about all you can really say is that it either feels Ok or it doesn't. May not be rocket science but it is fairly important for a variety of reasons......and I think one of those jobs that tends to get put off or ignored. Jeff Yes and either PP or his mechanic is confused as there are no ball joints in a straight axle suspension. I am hoping its just a misuse of terminology Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 For a stock front end in new or good condition, there are really no adjustments needed other than toe-in/out. If you have a bent axle, than that's another story. The shop manual has all the specs. To adjust toe, simply get a helper and a steel tape. Measure to the tire tread, front band back, aligned with the spindle. The center link can also be moved left or right by screwing in or out at each tie rod, separately, to center the steering. In theory, though, if you start threading the center link on both tie rods at the same time it should be pretty close. John; I have to ask ....... how do you know if one of these front ends are in good condition without using the correct tools? How would you check the king pin inclination and then the camber and castor? By eye? And If you can see that the axle is bent ...well you probably have bigger concerns than just that. All you can do with a tape measure is get the toe in set.......and that is the last item that should be checked. I think....and maybe it is just me?....that all of this get's skipped over on a big percentage of these trucks. Just my opinion but I don't think that any of these trucks belong on the road until this has been properly addressed. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 ' "For a stock front end in new or good condition, there are really no adjustments needed other than toe-in/out. If you have a bent axle, than that's another story. The shop manual has all the specs." I think John clarified his statement as copied above. As to other axles etc, bent, etc., then validate. That is what I did. I met specs and proceded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Caster and toe in are all that can be easily adjusted. KPI and camber require the I-beam to be bent for adjustment. If they are required probably frame measurements and and accident issues also need to be considered. Not a good situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DollyDodge Posted April 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Wow, that was a long discussion on the front end. I have been away for a while. I take Dolly in tomorrow and they are going to see if she needs alignment. I did the toe in toe out and she runs straight, but I think there may be another issue, one tire wears the outside tread faster than the inside. Any way, I will find out tomorrow. For Merle, I think I may hane a regulator or generator problem. I have yet to see the ammmeter go positive, it goes back to zero when all the lights are off. the voltmeter does continue to show 5.5 to 6 volts ( I added a volt meter). The battery hasn't done dead, but I haven't started it that much either. I got an optima battery and it seems really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 You should see around 7 - 7.5 volts on your volt meter once you raise the engine RPM up around 750-1000 + If it won't go over 6 volts it certainly isn't charging properly. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 It was a long discussion. Since you have already observed some abnormal tire wear that just makes going through this process all the more significant. The last thing you ever want to experience is tread separation while moving at speed in one of these trucks. You are wise to get it checked out by someone who knows. Just goes to show you that that steering straight and being set up correctly are not one in the same. I have found an old school suspension and alignment shop nearby. I will be taking mine there very soon as the owner is getting ready to retire.. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Which owner is retiring, the truck one or the mechanic? Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DollyDodge Posted April 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 The guy that is doing the front end is already retired. He had a tire shop for years. He now works at NAPA and does the alignment stuff part time at an auto shop behind the NAPA store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DollyDodge Posted April 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) Merle, is there a way for me to check the generator and regulator to see which isn't functioning correctly? I am an electrical novice at best. The other thing that seemed strange to me I put a battery charger on the battery this morning and the ammeter went negative. That seems backwards. Rob Edited April 30, 2015 by DollyDodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 If you decide to bring your generator into a shop to be checked out , bring your regulator along to be tested too . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DollyDodge Posted April 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 They looked at the front end and said everything was tight and really looked good. I will bring it back on a weekend to put it on the rack. The mechanic thought it might just need a bit of toe in toe out adjustment, but won't know until the put it on the rack. I had the king pins done, new bushings etc. It feels and tracks great, I just worried about the tire wear I saw before the rebuild. attached are a couple of photos when Dolly was on the lift, and one of her this morning where I got for my morning walk. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 LOL... That picture reminds me of Mater with no hood. Here is the electrical section of a shop manual (from the DEPTCA site). The generator info starts at the bottom of page 13 and the regulator description and testing starts on page 16. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/B4_manual/B-4_electrical.pdf Use the Throttle knob to set the engine around 1000 RPM when testing. Put a volt meter on the Armature terminal of the generator (large stud) and see what the voltage is. If it's not up around 7 or 8 volts then use a jumper wire and temporarily ground the Field terminal (small stud). This should put the generator in full output mode and the voltage should jump up. If it does than you may have a bad regulator. Also, keep in mind that the Circuit Breaker points, in the regulator, have to close to connect the battery to the generator. If they don't close then you may not even see 6 volts on the Armature terminal. If this is the case try jumping across the Bat and Arm terminals of the regulator to make the connection and see what happens to your voltage. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DollyDodge Posted April 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 Thanks so much Merle. I will let you know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DollyDodge Posted May 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2015 Merle! I set the throttle at 1000 rpm and had the following results (following your directions) with my voltmeter Generator field terminal not grounded, generator Armature terminal 0.8 volts Generator field terminal jumped and grounded, generator Armature terminal 0.8 volts Bat and Arm terminals jumped on regulator, generator Armature terminal 4.7 volts Does that mean my generator isn't producing enough volts, and needs rebuilding or repair? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 3, 2015 Report Share Posted May 3, 2015 Sounds like a bad generator to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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