New To Forum - 1951 Plymouth Cambridge Club Coupe

[51CamClub]

anyone have any ideas on the ballast resistor I need?  I'm hesitant to use the one suggested for the vehicle as it was converted to 12v. 

[Don Coatney]

anyone have any ideas on the ballast resistor I need?  I'm hesitant to use the one suggested for the vehicle as it was converted to 12v. 

A ballast resistor is only required on a 12 volt car.

 

[greg g]

coils live long and prosper between 6 and 9 volts.  The balast resistor or in some cases a resistor wire drops the 12V down to that level.  Some cars Fords for example feature a seperate terminal on the starter solenoid that bypasses the resistor and feeds the full 12v to the coil while the starter is engaged, on the theory that the momentary burst of higher voltage will assist starts.  Who knows maybe with Fords its necessary.....

[TodFitch]

coils live long and prosper between 6 and 9 volts.  The balast resistor or in some cases a resistor wire drops the 12V down to that level.  Some cars Fords for example feature a seperate terminal on the starter solenoid that bypasses the resistor and feeds the full 12v to the coil while the starter is engaged, on the theory that the momentary burst of higher voltage will assist starts.  Who knows maybe with Fords its necessary.....

A bunch of Chrysler products did that to in the 1960s.

[Don Coatney]

A bunch of Chrysler products did that to in the 1960s.

One forum member did that in the 2000's

[51CamClub]

"A ballast resistor is only required on a 12 volt car."

This car has been converted to 12v. The ballast resistor currently installed on car is cracked and broken. I was given options by the parts guy at advance to pick from different ohm resistors. Not sure which one to get. Just trying to get a recommendation. 12v car. New coil. Any ideas?

[ChrisRice]

I can't chime in on the resistors part. My car was purchased with one on it, but still had all the 6 volt wiring. Maybe the guy I bought it from was using 12v on it? I'm not sure, but it's back to 6 volt now. You can have my old one if you want it. Nice car, and welcome to the forum; good to see another Alabama forum member.

[pflaming]

question: What is the device on the brace up to the oil breather? Is that a part of the transmission shifting devices? Oh and yes, you have a great car.

[Merle Coggins]

I believe the ballast resistors need to be matched to the coil. Electrical theory tells us that for the voltage to be cut in half (6 volts to the coil) your resistor should be equal to the resistance of the coil. Disconnect the wires from your coil and measure the resistance across the primary coil terminals. Then get the ballast resistor that most closely matches that value.

 

Merle

[Plymouthy Adams]

"A ballast resistor is only required on a 12 volt car."

This car has been converted to 12v. The ballast resistor currently installed on car is cracked and broken. I was given options by the parts guy at advance to pick from different ohm resistors. Not sure which one to get. Just trying to get a recommendation. 12v car. New coil. Any ideas

 

 

selecting a ballast resistor is to ensure that the voltage will allow the proper voltage to the coil so that during your dwell time the coil will reach full saturation for the hottest spark...select one for a slant six..the dwell time for a 6 cylinder car is what you need to consider, actual reading with a current meter is needed to tweak the value for optimum...but for the street..the /6 ought to get you going well..

[Don Coatney]

"A ballast resistor is only required on a 12 volt car."

This car has been converted to 12v. The ballast resistor currently installed on car is cracked and broken. I was given options by the parts guy at advance to pick from different ohm resistors. Not sure which one to get. Just trying to get a recommendation. 12v car. New coil. Any ideas?

Is your new coil internally resisted? If not I suggest you re-read posting #27. You might even want to look at the picture and read the part number.

[jeffsunzeri]

My first car was a 1951 Cranbrook 2-door. What a learning experience that was. Compared to all my friends that pushed their Chevys, Fords, Buicks, etc. that Plymouth was outstanding. Made me a lifelong MoPar fan.

In your long-term plans, I'd suggest working with your Dad to bring the Plymouth back to a 6 volt system. Looks like you guys did a good job on the carb.

[Adam H P15 D30]

My first car was a 1951 Cranbrook 2-door. What a learning experience that was. Compared to all my friends that pushed their Chevys, Fords, Buicks, etc. that Plymouth was outstanding. Made me a lifelong MoPar fan.In your long-term plans, I'd suggest working with your Dad to bring the Plymouth back to a 6 volt system. Looks like you guys did a good job on the carb.

Why go backwards? That would be like taking a set of disc brakes off in favor of drums?? Plenty of other things to spend money / time on.

Edited June 27, 2014 by Adam H P15 D30

[jeffsunzeri]

 

Why go backwards? That would be like taking a set of disc brakes off in favor of drums?? Plenty of other things to spend money / time on.

 

Why get a 1951 automobile?

It's all personal preference. My personal preference is to have a 1951 (or any other vintage period) that is actually as close to being 100% of that period as is practical. Some folks don't feel that way. Good for them.

The practical reasons for going back to 6 volt include removing the broken resistor.

However, if you're dead set on being practical, I would suggest staying clear of old cars and other mechanical things.

[51CamClub]

@pflaming:  I have no idea.  Draw an arrow to what you’re talking about in the picture and upload it. 

 

@all:  Thanks for the encouragement and congratulations!

 

@Don Coatney:  That’s a great question. I’m not sure.  I do know however that the coil I bought is a “BWD Ignition Coil” part # E5P.

 

@Adam H: I hear what you’re saying, and I can appreciate that but that’s not where this car is headed.  You and my Dad have the same sentiment there.  I’m not trying to turn this into a street rod or mutate it into something it’s not, but not really too motivated to stay bone stock either.  Gonna put a stereo and some speakers in her one day, so likely gonna stay 12 v.  Also thinking about the disc brake converstion for later down the road. Seat belts as well. 

[51CamClub]

Update: well, sh$?! We took a look at the carb over the weekend, and it took my Dad 3 min to figure out what was up. The mating surface of the top cover and the next section down was compromised. The top casted piece was warped and had about 1/16th of an inch gap at one spot. Not only that, but there was a ton of trash in the bowl. The screw at the rear of the carb, one of which holding the top half down, was the wrong screw and barely attached. The float had been repaired with jb weld to patch a hole and was also cracked and had gas inside the float. There was residue on the inside of the barrel, the hinge pin for the float was missing. I'm about to go have a conversation with the guy I had rebuild my carburetor. It seems criminal someone would take my money and hand me something that could have burned her car to the ground and would put us in a dangerous position. Soooo pissed. We briefly discussed some sort of permatex gasket material type temp fix for the mating surface issue, but honestly it's so warped I don't see it happening. And with the float issues... I don't see how it actually ran for me. Amazed. Can anyone recommend a good place to buy one of these? I believe it's the carter b&b d6h1.

[Don Coatney]

George Asche Jr. 1693 Fertigs Road Venus, Pa. 16364 814-354-2621 No web site.

[51CamClub]

Thanks!