ChrisRice

The transmission is a T86 manufactured May 28, 1937. I belive it is a Borg-Warner overdrive transmission, and sells for anywhere from about 150 and up. Depends on the condition, etc. Someone rebuilding a 38 Dodge back to factory specs may very well pay a premium. Here are a few links that show you a range of what people are asking (again they are asking this, doesnt mean people are paying it). $99... http://www.ebay.com/itm/171763703480 $1,350 http://www.ebay.com/itm/351325349801

In 1955, according to my parts book, it was referred to as an "Ignition switch retainer ring" part #1623 119. I am sure the part number was different on a P-15 though, although the part name may be the same. I was not able to find a cross-reference in my interchange manual, and google was no help either. this post may or not not be helpful to you: http://p15-d24.com/topic/26697-early-50s-dodgefargo-ignition-switch/ Just to make sure i am referencing the right part, does it look similar at all to this:

Soda blasting will remove paint, but not rust. But then there is the issue of cleaning the metal afterwards, as the soda will turn into a fine powder and embed itself deep into the metal. As Plymouthy said, it is best used only for aluminum and fiberglass, as it will not eat up the fiberglass.

Perhaps, I explained it wrong. There is a ball valve at the bottom of 'tank' to control sand flow, another at the air flow, a third at the deadman, and a fourth at the inlet to shut off. I can individually control the amount of air and sand mix through the two appropriate valves. Yes i know, the ball valve for the sand will get 'eaten up' over long term like this.

I do have individual air/sand controls on my blaster, as well as having a regulator and a water separator at the inlet so that part is covered. Plymouthy, you said that you used less than 20 in sand at a .030 grit sand. Was that 20 pounds, i assume? I will not be able to capture and reuse, so i know that i will need more then that. i had thought i wouldve needed somewhere in the 100-200 pound range.

wide open sand is never good, even in the industrial applications i used to do. low sand, decent pressure. I imagine both would be lower on this thin of metal. Plymouthy, any suggestions on pressure, etc.?

What is a DPO?? It does have what is left of a poorly done old re-spray by a less than amateur "restorer."

From my understanding you have to keep the heat down to prevent warping. This is what is looked like two years ago.. As you can see, sanding by hand isnt going to happen at a rate of speed that will allow me to finish before starting over again.

I just got a new 60 gallon Kobalt compressor and 3/4 iron lines run through my shop and I am ready to put them to good use. I purchased a 20 gallon media blaster. This being said, I used to work as an industrial media blaster (using black beauty coal slag primarily) so I am familiar with blasting. I am trying to figure out how much blast media I will need to blast my 1955 Plymouth suburban (inside and out) including frame. When I used to do this, if i ran out, my employer just got more. But not having a place to store tons of it, I dont want to over or under order too much of it and have lots of wasted material. I dont have an easy way to "catch" the material for reuse. Any estimates on how much I might need? Also, on the outside, there is not much paint left, and the body is mostly rust. Any suggestions on type (fine/ coarse/etc.) Also after blasting, suggestions on cleaning/etching the metal and type of primer to use? Also is a sealer necessary as I wont be going strait from primer to finish immediately. If so, suggestions on type? I know some of you will argue against blasting, urging me instead to wire wheel, but on this big of a body, that is just not feasible. The finish coat will be of a factory type, color Biscayne Blue Metallic.

Digital copies can be found for a good price as well, if you are computer savvy. I personally have a computer in my workshop and it comes in handy for the digital copy (I have a reprint as well stashed away) as well as for youtube how-to videos.

I'm going to have to try that though. I was told the cylinder might have the codes on them, so I will try that first. I pulled all of the locks and did not find anything on the that looked like a key code. I did find a 4 digit number on one, but I dont think thats it. I called a locksmith for pricing, when they found out what kind of car it is they said they would have someone call me back. That was yesterday, and I still havent heard back from them. I assume by now that I wont. There are no locksmiths in my area that can cut a key for a car that old.

What is the 3 digit numbers on the build card?

So I assume there are no markings on the tumbler pins that I could just look at to find the code?

How would someone go about finding out the key codes for their car? I went to http://key-men.comand purchased some OEM keys for my car, and thinking that the key codes were the numbers under the key section of my build card, I had them ordered to be cut. My car did not come with keys. Someone removed the tumbler pins from the ignition so that a blank would fit, and I want to get keys so that I can fix to original. I know that the door and trunk still have the tumbler pins in place. Is there any way that I can find out what the key codes would be? The people at key-men told me that it is not the three digit numbers on the build card, but instead a 4 digit number prefaced by one or two letters. Can anyone help please?

As some of you may or may not know, I design websites and even have a Mopar dedicated website. I have thought of creating online registries of some of our classic cars (as far as I know, my car line does not have a registry dedicated to it. My question is this: If I were to design an online registry for various Plymouth/Dodge lines, would any of you be interested in adding your vehicles to it? ( I would, of course, make it easy for other website owners to include it into their websites for versatility purposes).

There was a topic about this a few days ago that I believe had the info for contacting the new owners.

What part of florida are you in?

What part of florida are you in?

I love having my flattie.

So.... what are you going to do with the original flattie?

In Alabama you can register a vehicle as classic/antique for $11.00 and never pay a yearly fee again. If you sell the vehicle, the tag stays with it and transfers to the new owner. They said something about it belongs to the car and not to the owner. You can also get the 'year of manufacture' tag instead and you do not receive a antique/classic tag. The cost is the same and the same rules apply. In order to qualify for either, the car must (among other things) have the original drivedrain and must not be used as a daily driver. Of course, tell that to the guys around the state that have 80s models cars just to keep from paying yearly tag renewals . Others just kind of ignore the 'daily driver; part and use it when they want. You can drive it for a number of reasons, such as maintenance, etc. and that always seems a viable excuse. Not that I have ever done it.

I am starting on metal work, replacing rocker panels, floorboards, and cutting out rot. On the places that I am cutting out old metal to fit with new (holes in fenders) I have looked at various sheet metal and found this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_241571-37672-11779_4294684417__?productId=3054577&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo= Wanted to get some opinions if this is what I should be using or if there is something better

I agree about the young guys. I just hope we can keep getting young guys interested I classics, custom or stock! Too often all they want is a big plastic toy box with an engine.

I am starting on metal work, replacing rocker panels, floorboards, and cutting out rot. On the places that I am cutting out old metal to fit with new (holes in fenders) I have looked at various sheet metal and found this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_241571-37672-11779_4294684417__?productId=3054577&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo= Wanted to get some opinions if this is what I should be using or if there is something better

It works fine from my iPad. If the picture is too large from an iPhone or iPad, what I do is to email it to myself. When you do that it gives the option to reduce file size to: regular, small, med, or large. Works like a charm.