Dave72dt Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Most of the newer alternators have the regulator built in and the 1- wire units are extremely easy to wire in. I'm not sure where you soldered the terminals. Those all look like crimped to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I crimped them enough so they would not get away from me, the I ran the solder in. The are ALL soldered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I'm not sure where you soldered the terminals. Those all look like crimped to me I wondered the same thing. I crimped them enough so they would not get away from me, the I ran the solder in. The are ALL soldered. How did you get them hot enough to pull the solder into the connection without melting the plastic sheath on the terminal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 glad you soldered, crimps don't always stay crimped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 You have the corner windows for sale. Is that glass only or does that include enough metal to 'patch' them in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I held them vertical, then heated from the connector. I used a solder 'wire' that was about the size of the lead in a lead pencil. I let some melt and draw then cool, then heat and draw, etc. Most of the plastic sleaves showed some distortion but did not melt. I'm confident they will all hold. The last time I dd this I too removed the plastic then used sleaves and shrunk them with a 'dryer'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 You have the corner windows for sale. Is that glass only or does that include enough metal to 'patch' them in? I don't understand what you mean by 'patch' them in? I have sets of corner glass I am selling yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Paul has a 3 window cab, no corner windows in it. I think he's asking if you have the surrounding metal so he could convert it to a 5 window. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 I picked up an alternator / regulator, electrical fan, and two slant 6 distributors this morning. Then proceeded to discover how to wire the alternator. It's very simple as the photograph will show. One can run without the regulator but I think it's a necessity for my needs. The red wire is power in; the brown and green wires cycle the energy through the regulator which is a big assist to the operation of the vehicle. Fuel pump tomorrow and possibly start the engine. Once running then switch the fans, and put in an electronic dizzy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) Paul-there is work to be done to the distributors if it hasn't already been done. On a slant, the distributor drives the oil pump, and on the flatty its the reverse. I.E on the /6 the gear drive is on the distributor, and on the flatty it's on the oil pump. You'll need to get the input shaft from the flatty mounted on the /6 distibutor. I also believe that you're going to have to cut down housing from the slant so that it fits snugly into the hole in the block of the flatty. After that you'll need to convert to a neg ground in order to use the ignition module for the /6 electronic distributor. I just did a recurve on the dist in my 78 pickup, and I had a dist from my 2.5 ton on the bench that had a bent shaft that I was working on repairing. I should have taken measurements while I had them out to see if that discussion was accurate. Mike Edited May 9, 2014 by MBFowler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 The alternator and its regulator are in. If I had known it was so simple I would have done it a long time ago. Now to trace the power and see what is alive. Then when I have power to the points, will get fuel to the carb and give it a spin to see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) Made some significant progress today: 1)drained the fuel tank so I can fit in an electric fuel pump and filter, 2) drained the oil, it was very black so my have had some fuel in it from the faulty fuel pump, 3) pulled the hood and the radiator and loosely installed an electric fan. Question: I cannot center it in the radiator because of a clearance problem with the water pump pulley shaft. Is there any problem with an off centered mount. The materials for the new building are to arrive this afternoon. To get more clearance I mounted the radiator on the front side of its mount, that gave me a full inch and all fits. I still have to make a permanent mount but in place is always first. Edited May 12, 2014 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavisco1 Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 If you are going with electronic ignition you may as well use a GM HEI module and coil. The mopar electronic distributor will work just fine with the HEI module resulting in a hotter and longer duration spark. Some good reading over here; http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779 at slantsix.org. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 I think you'll need a larger fan. That one will only cool a small portion of the radiator. What is the reason behind switching to an electric fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Why the electric fan? Was it running hot before the fire? Maybe there is still some residual heat there. Seriously, why? Why HEI? Why the changes when it was running great before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 I would not think that any ECU other than the factory matched to the distributor you have is in order...if anything you should want a better spark just upgrade to a hotter Mopar module (there are three factory offered levels) the very one that EVERYONE has copied in the aftermarket world... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 When I installed an electric fan, I use a low profile pusher fan. That allowed me to put it in front of the radiator so I could hide it from view. I thought it would look lame to have a modern fan in plain view in the vintage engine compartment. I also got an adjustable thermostat so it would automatically turn on & off. This is the one I used...not sure if this will go between the fins in your stock radiator though. http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-3647-Adjustable-Thermostatic/dp/B000C3BB6M/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1399936556&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=hayen+electric+fan+switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) Paul: I have a friend that has a very high performance Roadrunner. He was telling me on Saturday that he has switched back to the original water pump fan from the electric ones he had installed on the advice of the engine builder. He says the car now runs 15 degrees cooler. If you're having overheating problems being your in CA, you may need a shroud around the original fan to force the air to be drawn through the entire radiator core area. Something else to think about with the relocated radiator is to make sure that the hood clears the top of the tank. Just my 2 cents. Mike Edited May 12, 2014 by MBFowler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavisco1 Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) There are several advantages of HEI over the Mopar module. Electronic regulation of primary coil current, greater availability in case of failure, no ballast resistor needed, designed to fire wider plug gaps and designed to work with high energy coils. Both the Mopar electronic distributor and GM HEI distributor use a reluctor pickup. The HEI module works as designed with either distributor. If you are going to the trouble of converting the distributor and reworking the wiring, it's a no-brainer to use the more advanced HEI module. This is a very common upgrade in the slant six world and is even popular with some in the Mopar V8 crowd. Cheap, reliable, easy to service, easily hidden and a big upgrade in performance. Keep an open mind and have a look here http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98527&highlight=#98527 and here http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98527&highlight=#98527 The Mopar electronic ignition is basically a transistor switch to replace the points; advanced for it's day, but the HEI module gives a hotter longer duration spark. Edited May 12, 2014 by cavisco1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 The way I read your reference thread was the HEI unit had an advantage in performance at higher rpms. Is there any distinct difference in performance at the rpm range these engines run in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Paul; For what it is worth I just got through putting my original fan back on. It definitely moves a lot more air than the Speedway pusher I have fitted. The electric fan a 16" model was adequate in cool weather........but did not cut it with the hot spells we have already had this year. Now maybe if I had a higher performance radiator core and perhaps a custom shroud it might have been up to the job? I am not really sure. I thought I was being really smart when I added it. And it sure was easier to get a timing light in there without it.....not having a finger biter was great too. But honestly I am not at all sure it was even worth trying. Since it is a pusher and already fitted I think I will leave it as a backup. I agree with Merle it doesn't look to me like the fan you are trying to fit is going to be large enough to do the job. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Mopar plug and play units are selectable for RPM ranges to 10,500 BEFORE going to the Mopar MSD-7C which will support 12,00 RPM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavisco1 Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) The way I read your reference thread was the HEI unit had an advantage in performance at higher rpms. Is there any distinct difference in performance at the rpm range these engines run in? Yes there are advantages at these the lower RPM ranges. Most of the advantages are in the low RPM ranges. By electronically regulating the coil primary current, the HEI module assures a fully charged field in the coil across all normal operating RPMs allowing a hotter spark to the plug for each ignition event, without destructive overheating of the coil at low RPM. The coil primary current regulator circuit also imposes a current limit of 8 amps in the primary circuit to allow the use of HEI coils. It is designed to work with low resistance HEI coils and fire across wide plug gaps. The stock GM HEI coil has a primary resistance of 0.5 ohm. These are very hot coils. The original systems in 1975 were designed to reliably fire a .060" plug gap! I think it would probably be safe to open up the plug gap .040 on a flatty. As good as the MOPAR system was in it's day, I don't think it will live long with a 0.5 ohm coil. In summary, the HEI system, when matched to an HEI coil will deliver more energy (Joules) to your plugs across all rpms than the MOPAR system. It also eliminates the ballast resistor ( a common failure point in the MOPAR system). Google Freescale "MC3334 datasheet" for more detail on how it works. Edited May 13, 2014 by cavisco1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavisco1 Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Mopar plug and play units are selectable for RPM ranges to 10,500 BEFORE going to the Mopar MSD-7C which will support 12,00 RPM Thanks for the info Plymouth Adams. If I ever need to spin something that fast I now know what to use. No offense intended, but I'm just talking about a cheap and reliable upgrade with off the shelf parts that is no more difficult than the Mopar EI upgrade. It may even be a little easier since it uses fewer parts. Of course I don't want to discourage you from using your preferred method. I ran the Mopar EI on a poly 318 for years. A very reliable system. Both systems are a great upgrade over points; I just think the HEI is a little better solution with fewer parts. Check out the links I provided. Do a little research on your own and let us know what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 the other three boxes I mentioned does just that and very economically...I really am not sure you have given the boxes a fair shake but each person ahs the right to chose their weapon of choice...I also have never had a Mopar ECU fail....YET....!!!!! only above 10,500 is the need for the MSD...the Mopar Performance book is quite full of information like this and wiring configuration for retrofitting and or race application....the whole 9 yards of all what parts work with each unit...easy cheesy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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