Todd B Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 I forgot to take out my batterie when I parked my semi 3 monthes ago, it sat in cold temps below zero for a long time. I went out today (35 degrees) and thought I would need to get my booster, I jumped in and hit the starter and it spun like a top and very shortly fired. I unhooked my trailer and drove it through my shed and into my shop to deal with my gas tank issues and I have a cracked rear drum. I don't remember how and my dad is no longer here to hep me, how do I remove the rear drum?? I have another truck that I can rob the drum from. I drove it up on my hill and took a photo moment with it next to one of my sheds. Even though they are calling for 10 degree weather for all of next week, driving my truck surely warmed me up. 3 Quote
ruff1148kr Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 love your rig how are those horns mounted on the pilot house cab? Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 I believe you'll find it similar to the 1 ton where you remove the center cap with the axle shaft attached, a big locking nut, retainer, another nut and remove the drum. I assume you'll need to back the brake adjustment off to clear the shoes. Something to catch oil when you pull the axle shaft out as it may want to drip. Quote
TodFitch Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 I believe you'll find it similar to the 1 ton where you remove the center cap with the axle shaft attached, a big locking nut, retainer, another nut and remove the drum. I assume you'll need to back the brake adjustment off to clear the shoes. Something to catch oil when you pull the axle shaft out as it may want to drip. Probably a totally different setup, but with the full floating axle on the 3/4 ton '63 D200 I once had I found I could remove the tire from the opposite side I was working on and lower the drum/backing plate to the ground. Enough of the oil in the axle then went to the low side and I could remove the axle shaft without having an issue with drips, etc. But with a dual wheel setup and probably much stiffer springs, etc., that may not work on this truck/tractor. Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 That's one well matained rig Todd. Out of my League.. Hank (another calendar girl) Quote
Merle Coggins Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 Nice Pic Todd. Good luck cleaning the fuel tank and replacement of the brake drum. I hope to see that truck out and about this summer. Quote
41/53dodges Posted February 21, 2014 Report Posted February 21, 2014 Most full floating axles work this way, I learned off my 41' 1: lean the truck to the opposite side to do something about the axle oil. Or drain it, your call. 2: take off the wheels on the side you want 3: remove the 8-10 nuts or bolts holding on the axle cap, the axle is attached and will slide out with the cap. It will likely take some gentle persuasion to get it loose. 4: there will be a large nut on a threaded tube, remove that. Make sure you remember the orders everything goes in and where it is set. Pictures help. 5: there may be another nut, if so remove it. Now the whole hub and drum assembly should slide out. Full floating rears are much like a front hub setup, just with a drive axle. That should do it! Good luck, -josh Quote
Todd B Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Posted February 22, 2014 Thanks to all for the kind comments, thanks josh for the step by step, Hank- you are funny, I envy your truck. I remember awhile back there was talk about old tricks of draining the fuel from my tank. Anybody remember Merle, how far is New Glarus from you, I have a job there coming up. Quote
Mark D Posted February 22, 2014 Report Posted February 22, 2014 Beautiful. I'd be hooking onto a fifth wheel camper and heading for the warmth! Quote
MBF Posted February 22, 2014 Report Posted February 22, 2014 Since you have to replace the drum, on the parts truck it may be smart to remove the rims before you pull the drum to avoid damaging the inner seal when sliding the drum off the axle tube. Same thing when putting the replacement on your truck unless you have the dolly to slide the duals and drum off as an assembly. It can be done with some grease on a piece of plywood, but you have to have the vehicle jacked to the exact height so that the wheels are still making contact with the ground. Good luck-spring is just around the corner! Mike Quote
Todd B Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Posted March 7, 2014 Dropped my fuel tank today and this is what I found in the neck part of the tank. 12 years ago a freind cut my tank in half at the seam and rebuilt it. I then put something in the tank to help the seam from leaking. It never leaked but now this stuff is letting loose and getting sucked into the tank. It only appears to be a problem by the neck but there is little chuncks of junk floating around in there. I am thinking of cutting an access hole about 1/3 of the top to clean this thing out. Has anyone attempted this. also got my new/used rear drum cleaned and painted and I believe that will be Sundays job to install. My hired man took the one off my semi and the parts truck and just laid the parts in a pile. I looked in my book and there is no cross section of a 2.5 ton drum assembly. Any one know the order of all the big nuts and washers go. also do you pack this with grease when you put this back together or does the rear end 80/90 oil lubricate the big bearing. Thanks, Todd Quote
Todd B Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Posted March 7, 2014 love your rig how are those horns mounted on the pilot house cab? Just mounted to the cab itself with locking nuts on the inside. They are very ridig and have never leaked (so far). They are "extremely" loud. Quote
41/53dodges Posted March 8, 2014 Report Posted March 8, 2014 Generally the 80/90 axle oil will take care of the bearings. Thats the beauty of a full floating axle! Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 8, 2014 Report Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) Here are some pics of the medium duty 16"X3-1/2" dodge rear drum/hub showing the order of inner adjustment nut with pin, adjustment washer with adjustment holes and the outer plain locking nut. No outer flange seal is used as on 1 tons and the 3-4 ton heavy series trucks. I always pack grease into the rear bearings for initial lube as it takes a bit for the axles to transfer lube outward to these bearings. Bob Edited March 8, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
Todd B Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Posted March 8, 2014 Thanks bob, I thought my dad packed them when we first built the truck but I could not remember. It apprears to be perma tex around the axle shaft flange used as a gasket. Is that necassary? Or a good choice? I saw that second picture in my book but my drum is all one piece. I assume my drum is the same bearing & washer order as your picture. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 9, 2014 Report Posted March 9, 2014 Todd, RTV is probably better than permatex to seal the flange surface if you don't have a gasket. The middle picture is of a heavier truck hub but the order of parts is correct. I blocked out the outer flange seal as shown on that pic so as not to confuse you. Boy it was hard to find a proper exploded view of the 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 ton rear drum and hub assembly. Nothing I have shows the exact pic you really wanted to see! The third picture is of your one piece drum and hub. I have a couple trucks same as yours and have had them both apart over time for repairs. Bob Quote
Todd B Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Posted March 29, 2014 I finished the brake drum with your help. That was actually pretty simple. Now I am in the process of cutting the tank apart, I have it all clean and now my welder buddy who is the welding instructor at the local Tech is putting it back together. Quote
Todd B Posted June 9, 2014 Author Report Posted June 9, 2014 I have been so busy this spring, my getting ready for spring finaly happened last friday, I got my tank all coated internally and put back in. I took only the truck for a 20 mile ride friday night with no problems. I then hooked up my trailer and went out to eat with my wife last night for a 50 mile ride. I think I have my confidence back again and am ready for the drive to California next spring. 4 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted June 9, 2014 Report Posted June 9, 2014 Atta Boy, Todd. We can convoy. We'll even get Mark to drive FEF. 1 Quote
MBF Posted June 9, 2014 Report Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Way to go Todd. Getting your wife to ride 50 miles in an unloaded tractor trailer with no air seat-that is the big accomplishment here! I did that with my wife about 30 yrs ago and bobtailed almost 170 miles to pick up a trailer. She was lucky-the passenger seat was also air. I still don't think I'd try that again today though. Mike Edited June 9, 2014 by MBFowler Quote
Todd B Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Posted June 10, 2014 Believe it or not my wife loves our semi more then I possibly do. Last year I had some bad accounts not paying me and I considered selling the semi, my wife heard about my thoughts and she said that I would sell my Harley before she would let me sell the semi. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted June 10, 2014 Report Posted June 10, 2014 that would be a LONG, but fun drive! I'd have to have a massage therapist along to give me leg massages every night. I'd get there and my right leg would make Arnold jealous! 1 Quote
Dave72dt Posted June 10, 2014 Report Posted June 10, 2014 If Todd would happen to have a flat bed trailer or better yet, a transport trailer, FEF and the Green Machine could be loaded onto it and trailered out and you two could ride in the cab and get to experience major double clutching and split shifting the entire way. Quote
Todd B Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Posted June 10, 2014 Merle & Mark are great guys but I am not sure I want them that "close" to me for 2 weeks. I remember in High school my buddie and I would double date and take my first b1b (AKA D.C.Pete) I can gurantee the 4 of us could not do that any more. It sucks getting old. 1 Quote
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