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Posted

 Now your getting there PP.

 

 

 

This is just the old aged ramblings of absolutely no value to anyone, but the difference between  mechanical work, …bolt “a” goes in hole “b” in sequence, and sometimes with the correct torque and sometimes with exact clearances, with really only one correct method of installation, which is completely different from body work. For the most part body work it doesn’t much matter how you get there, hammer it, press it, beat it, heat it, bend it, weld it, solder it, braze it, ….. as long as its flat and a skim of bondo covers it, your good to go.

 

 

 

I see that you are using those new special style jack stands that don’t show in pictures! (must be the camera) :) 

Posted

I bought a sheet of new metal and removed all the patch work I did a few weeks ago. I decided to use large panels and as few as possible to cut down on the welding.

 

It's slow work and gets frustrating when a pattern is made, measurements are double checked and the panel is still a bit off. Hoping to start welding on Monday. 

 

SuburbanNewmetalfloorpans001_zpsa2002f85

 

SuburbanNewmetalfloorpans002_zpsa4e01173

 

SuburbanNewmetalfloorpans003_zps976f4313

 

SuburbanNewmetalfloorpans006_zps026ce1a8

Posted (edited)

When I returned to the new rocker panel, it just didn't fit. After a brief visit with a forum member, I removed all the old material and started over. Good advise, it worked and is coming together quite well. I found that if you take a metal screw just larger than the slot, put a washer on it, you can use these screws to pull the metal together. Probably an old trick to most but a new one to me.

 

My channel iron saw horse with pipe legs makes a good anvil. 

 

I took these pics with the same camera. Some are clear, some not so clear.  It appears the camera does not like a lot of light on the subject.  

 

Suburbanallnewrockerpaneldriverside003_z

 

Suburbanallnewrockerpaneldriverside001_z

 

Suburbanallnewrockerpaneldriverside002_z

 

Suburbanallnewrockerpaneldriverside007_z

 

Suburbanallnewrockerpaneldriverside004_z

Edited by pflaming
Posted

Looking good Paul!
;) 
You're getting the idea.

Before any welding, measure the door opening to make sure door will still fit., Better yet, try refitting door to make sure all panels realign. Then tack weld and recheck. Best to to do rocker/and floor panel replacement in parts to prevent fitment problems later if not using welding in cross braces to maintain all openings fitment if correct from the start point.

Are you using the old camera again?
:rolleyes: Still betteer than before!

 

Best,

 

Doug

Posted (edited)

Don't understand my camera, some are clear some not. This floor is abpit ready to weld just a couple of areas to align more closely, then tack weld these new panels in place and see if it all stays in place. Will butt weld in some areas but not all. It's been a few years since I've welded so will have to get the hang of it again and learn how to weld with a torch. I've always enjoyed welding so I'm excited about this next step. Once it's all secure, I will remove the screws and spot weld those holes shut. 

 

Suburbanfloorpaneltoweld2_zps3acd7e7a.jp

Edited by pflaming
Posted

Maybe you are using a two stage camera. First phase when you push the button lets the camera focus properly and adjust for light. Second takes the picture. If you do not let the camera adjust you will get a blurry picture. You should be able to feel what the camera is doing.

 

Work is progressing nicely.

Posted (edited)

This panel concerns me. I think the curvature is close. BUT how do I confirm it is VERY close and how do I 'perfect' it? 

 

Suburbandriversiderearwheelpanel003_zps6

 

Suburbandriversiderearwheelpanel004_zpsc[/url]

 
 
 

 

 

Suburbandriversiderearwheelpanel005_zps8

Edited by pflaming
Posted

Don't understand my camera, some are clear some not. This floor is abpit ready to weld just a couple of areas to align more closely, then tack weld these new panels in place and see if it all stays in place. Will butt weld in some areas but not all. It's been a few years since I've welded so will have to get the hang of it again and learn how to weld with a torch. I've always enjoyed welding so I'm excited about this next step. Once it's all secure, I will remove the screws and spot weld those holes shut. 

 

Suburbanfloorpaneltoweld2_zps3acd7e7a.jp

Paul;

It's not the camera.......it's the subject matter. Go back to that parking lot and wait for the right photo op. :D

This is what happens when you lose your focus.

Jeff

Posted

..... weld with a torch.

 

 NO,……it is time for you to get a MIG ………(from Santa)    :)  

 

Posted

Assuming you haven't cut the other side up yet, you can make cardboard or steel templates from that and compare the curvature.  don't worry about the MIG.  Oxy welding works and leaves a nice soft weld that can be hammer and dollied as easily as the surrounding metal.  Expect some warping, make sure the backside is reasonably accessible, and have a charged fire extinguisher present regardless of type of welder.  Interior panels and pockets and recesses can and often do contain things that burn.  I keep a squirt bottle of water handy in addition to the extinguisher when welding and is my initial go to for any flareup.  Don't leave the shop/garage for at least 15-30 minutes after everything has cooled down

Posted

don't worry about the MIG.  Oxy welding works, expect some warping,

……………..yep, you’re right, ………………better yet ...............no fire hazard, get a couple of rocks and beat it until fused together …..... :rolleyes: 

Posted

At noon I fitted the last panel ready to start welding. My right leg's calf was hurting but I didn't let it concern me, then the knee started to get sore and in two hours I could not put any weight on it. I'm on crutches now and not sure what happened. So this project may come to a crawl, literally.  :(

Posted

Update on the knee. This morning all was better and improved throughout the day. No swelling, no discoloration, and not pain in the calf itself.  I checked with my son a physical therapist and based upon the 'lack of specific symptoms' and the fact that I was pushing my car around to clean the floor, he surmised I pulled a muscle. So if all keeps improving, I should be back in the shop by Saturday.

Posted (edited)

Would welding galvanized metal effect a leg?

 

Edit: Just kidding, I know better. 

Edited by pflaming
Posted

You might want to drink some milk if you have been welding galvanized metal and breathing the fumes. Those fumes really are very bad for you so I'd be careful of those fumes. The milk helps to recover from the "zinc oxide exposure" AKA galvanize poisoning.

Posted

Would welding galvanized metal effect a leg?

 

Your sore one ………….or the one that I was pulling ? :confused: 

Posted

I best clear the record. NO GALVANIZED metal in my shop, and I do all welding out in the alley. We had perfect afternoon weather this week and I still cannot work on my leg. I can walk, but then it gets very sore again FAST. I'm getting anxious to see the results of my welding 'skills'.

 

 I'm not too worried about welding on the floor panels nor the side panels, but the bottom of the rocker panel will have to be welded also. May put the car to a friend's shop and weld that with a mig welder. Not that crazy about North Korean and Russian products but it's now a global world, so will have to adapt.

Posted

You might want to drink some milk if you have been welding galvanized metal and breathing the fumes. Those fumes really are very bad for you so I'd be careful of those fumes. The milk helps to recover from the "zinc oxide exposure" AKA galvanize poisoning.

...but what about us old guys who are lactose intolerant...? :P

Posted (edited)

Eggnog and Brandy might work!

 

If I pulled a ligament, then I'm off my legs for a while, so looking at desk projects. Grill pieces are one choice and the steering wheel is another. Will likely do the grill pieces.

 

I have two wheels the one pictured and the most common one with two spokes across the center and a third spoke to 6 o'clock.

 

This wheel had that very nice 'plastic' covering usually a nice 'cream' color. Has anyone had any experience rebuilding one of these?

 

Steeringwheelwithdeluxring003_zps0541e88

 

Steeringwheelwithdeluxring001_zps3b63c70

 

Steeringwheelwithdeluxring002_zpsc076346

Edited by pflaming
Posted

Lots of sites on the web about doing steering wheels. You will definitely need a donor steering wheel to do yours. Google steering wheel repair.

Posted

Watching body work and auto painting videos on U-Tube while I'm letting my leg heal. Some definitions that most of you know but which were fuzzy to me. (1) filler (Bondo is one filler and is a brand name; (2) flash time: the time it takes for the solvents to escape from the primer or paint. If one paints/primers before they can escape naturally, they will find a way through the new coat and leave a hole; (3) window; time available to primer or paint a followup coat, if one goes beyond that time, then the followup coat will not adhere; (4) guide coat; a very thin coat of off color primer by which one gauges where he has sanded. (5) all primers/paints have different specifications for the above, so read and comply; all times stated in the specs are based upon approximately a 70 degree temp.

 

This hobby/vocation is fascinating. It's not unlike literature, art, language, or science because in all these and others, definition is the key to understanding. Ironically, glossaries are in the back of books, they should be in the front.

 

Well, best get to bed, at my age I hesitate doing that for fear I may become another RVW.  :)

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