Old Ray Posted December 12, 2013 Report Posted December 12, 2013 Now your getting there PP. This is just the old aged ramblings of absolutely no value to anyone, but the difference between mechanical work, …bolt “a” goes in hole “b” in sequence, and sometimes with the correct torque and sometimes with exact clearances, with really only one correct method of installation, which is completely different from body work. For the most part body work it doesn’t much matter how you get there, hammer it, press it, beat it, heat it, bend it, weld it, solder it, braze it, ….. as long as its flat and a skim of bondo covers it, your good to go. I see that you are using those new special style jack stands that don’t show in pictures! (must be the camera) Quote
pflaming Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Posted December 14, 2013 I bought a sheet of new metal and removed all the patch work I did a few weeks ago. I decided to use large panels and as few as possible to cut down on the welding. It's slow work and gets frustrating when a pattern is made, measurements are double checked and the panel is still a bit off. Hoping to start welding on Monday. Quote
pflaming Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Posted December 15, 2013 (edited) When I returned to the new rocker panel, it just didn't fit. After a brief visit with a forum member, I removed all the old material and started over. Good advise, it worked and is coming together quite well. I found that if you take a metal screw just larger than the slot, put a washer on it, you can use these screws to pull the metal together. Probably an old trick to most but a new one to me. My channel iron saw horse with pipe legs makes a good anvil. I took these pics with the same camera. Some are clear, some not so clear. It appears the camera does not like a lot of light on the subject. Edited December 15, 2013 by pflaming Quote
DJ194950 Posted December 15, 2013 Report Posted December 15, 2013 Looking good Paul! You're getting the idea.Before any welding, measure the door opening to make sure door will still fit., Better yet, try refitting door to make sure all panels realign. Then tack weld and recheck. Best to to do rocker/and floor panel replacement in parts to prevent fitment problems later if not using welding in cross braces to maintain all openings fitment if correct from the start point.Are you using the old camera again? Still betteer than before! Best, Doug Quote
pflaming Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Posted December 17, 2013 (edited) Don't understand my camera, some are clear some not. This floor is abpit ready to weld just a couple of areas to align more closely, then tack weld these new panels in place and see if it all stays in place. Will butt weld in some areas but not all. It's been a few years since I've welded so will have to get the hang of it again and learn how to weld with a torch. I've always enjoyed welding so I'm excited about this next step. Once it's all secure, I will remove the screws and spot weld those holes shut. Edited August 24, 2018 by pflaming Quote
RobertKB Posted December 17, 2013 Report Posted December 17, 2013 Maybe you are using a two stage camera. First phase when you push the button lets the camera focus properly and adjust for light. Second takes the picture. If you do not let the camera adjust you will get a blurry picture. You should be able to feel what the camera is doing. Work is progressing nicely. Quote
pflaming Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Posted December 17, 2013 (edited) This panel concerns me. I think the curvature is close. BUT how do I confirm it is VERY close and how do I 'perfect' it? [/url] Edited December 17, 2013 by pflaming Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted December 17, 2013 Report Posted December 17, 2013 Don't understand my camera, some are clear some not. This floor is abpit ready to weld just a couple of areas to align more closely, then tack weld these new panels in place and see if it all stays in place. Will butt weld in some areas but not all. It's been a few years since I've welded so will have to get the hang of it again and learn how to weld with a torch. I've always enjoyed welding so I'm excited about this next step. Once it's all secure, I will remove the screws and spot weld those holes shut. Paul; It's not the camera.......it's the subject matter. Go back to that parking lot and wait for the right photo op. This is what happens when you lose your focus. Jeff Quote
Old Ray Posted December 17, 2013 Report Posted December 17, 2013 ..... weld with a torch. NO,……it is time for you to get a MIG ………(from Santa) Quote
Dave72dt Posted December 17, 2013 Report Posted December 17, 2013 Assuming you haven't cut the other side up yet, you can make cardboard or steel templates from that and compare the curvature. don't worry about the MIG. Oxy welding works and leaves a nice soft weld that can be hammer and dollied as easily as the surrounding metal. Expect some warping, make sure the backside is reasonably accessible, and have a charged fire extinguisher present regardless of type of welder. Interior panels and pockets and recesses can and often do contain things that burn. I keep a squirt bottle of water handy in addition to the extinguisher when welding and is my initial go to for any flareup. Don't leave the shop/garage for at least 15-30 minutes after everything has cooled down Quote
Old Ray Posted December 18, 2013 Report Posted December 18, 2013 don't worry about the MIG. Oxy welding works, expect some warping, ……………..yep, you’re right, ………………better yet ...............no fire hazard, get a couple of rocks and beat it until fused together …..... Quote
pflaming Posted December 19, 2013 Author Report Posted December 19, 2013 At noon I fitted the last panel ready to start welding. My right leg's calf was hurting but I didn't let it concern me, then the knee started to get sore and in two hours I could not put any weight on it. I'm on crutches now and not sure what happened. So this project may come to a crawl, literally. Quote
RobertKB Posted December 19, 2013 Report Posted December 19, 2013 That is not good. Hope it is temporary and we want to see the progress on the car!! Quote
pflaming Posted December 20, 2013 Author Report Posted December 20, 2013 Update on the knee. This morning all was better and improved throughout the day. No swelling, no discoloration, and not pain in the calf itself. I checked with my son a physical therapist and based upon the 'lack of specific symptoms' and the fact that I was pushing my car around to clean the floor, he surmised I pulled a muscle. So if all keeps improving, I should be back in the shop by Saturday. Quote
Old Ray Posted December 20, 2013 Report Posted December 20, 2013 Good to hear. I am very sure that it was caused by the acetylene fumes! Quote
pflaming Posted December 20, 2013 Author Report Posted December 20, 2013 (edited) Would welding galvanized metal effect a leg? Edit: Just kidding, I know better. Edited December 20, 2013 by pflaming Quote
Dave72dt Posted December 20, 2013 Report Posted December 20, 2013 fumes from welding galvanized are poisonous. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 20, 2013 Report Posted December 20, 2013 You might want to drink some milk if you have been welding galvanized metal and breathing the fumes. Those fumes really are very bad for you so I'd be careful of those fumes. The milk helps to recover from the "zinc oxide exposure" AKA galvanize poisoning. Quote
Old Ray Posted December 20, 2013 Report Posted December 20, 2013 Would welding galvanized metal effect a leg? Your sore one ………….or the one that I was pulling ? Quote
Niel Hoback Posted December 20, 2013 Report Posted December 20, 2013 Yes, it will affect your leg. Your leg will be attached to a dead body. Quote
pflaming Posted December 20, 2013 Author Report Posted December 20, 2013 I best clear the record. NO GALVANIZED metal in my shop, and I do all welding out in the alley. We had perfect afternoon weather this week and I still cannot work on my leg. I can walk, but then it gets very sore again FAST. I'm getting anxious to see the results of my welding 'skills'. I'm not too worried about welding on the floor panels nor the side panels, but the bottom of the rocker panel will have to be welded also. May put the car to a friend's shop and weld that with a mig welder. Not that crazy about North Korean and Russian products but it's now a global world, so will have to adapt. Quote
wayfarer Posted December 20, 2013 Report Posted December 20, 2013 You might want to drink some milk if you have been welding galvanized metal and breathing the fumes. Those fumes really are very bad for you so I'd be careful of those fumes. The milk helps to recover from the "zinc oxide exposure" AKA galvanize poisoning. ...but what about us old guys who are lactose intolerant...? Quote
pflaming Posted December 21, 2013 Author Report Posted December 21, 2013 (edited) Eggnog and Brandy might work! If I pulled a ligament, then I'm off my legs for a while, so looking at desk projects. Grill pieces are one choice and the steering wheel is another. Will likely do the grill pieces. I have two wheels the one pictured and the most common one with two spokes across the center and a third spoke to 6 o'clock. This wheel had that very nice 'plastic' covering usually a nice 'cream' color. Has anyone had any experience rebuilding one of these? Edited August 24, 2018 by pflaming Quote
RobertKB Posted December 21, 2013 Report Posted December 21, 2013 Lots of sites on the web about doing steering wheels. You will definitely need a donor steering wheel to do yours. Google steering wheel repair. Quote
pflaming Posted December 22, 2013 Author Report Posted December 22, 2013 Watching body work and auto painting videos on U-Tube while I'm letting my leg heal. Some definitions that most of you know but which were fuzzy to me. (1) filler (Bondo is one filler and is a brand name; (2) flash time: the time it takes for the solvents to escape from the primer or paint. If one paints/primers before they can escape naturally, they will find a way through the new coat and leave a hole; (3) window; time available to primer or paint a followup coat, if one goes beyond that time, then the followup coat will not adhere; (4) guide coat; a very thin coat of off color primer by which one gauges where he has sanded. (5) all primers/paints have different specifications for the above, so read and comply; all times stated in the specs are based upon approximately a 70 degree temp. This hobby/vocation is fascinating. It's not unlike literature, art, language, or science because in all these and others, definition is the key to understanding. Ironically, glossaries are in the back of books, they should be in the front. Well, best get to bed, at my age I hesitate doing that for fear I may become another RVW. Quote
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