Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

which valve are you talking about?  Mine's not brass!  ;)

Posted

ah, yep not like the "Y" version that was the earlier "stock".

 

Good to know tho!

Posted (edited)

The dual heater control valve is another that really is worth rebuilding as valuable as they are.

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
  • Like 1
Posted

The dual heater control valve is another that really is worth rebuilding as valuable as they are.

Bob, I just broke the center stud off the valve portion, as in your 1st pic.

Does anyone have an extra, or how could I make something for this.

The dual heater, is other wise in good shape.

I had to heat this stud, and the nut cam off fine, but pushing it out of the housing it broke off.....thanx Fred

  • 1 year later...
Posted

are the valves, mentioned bij the OP still new available? I have the same type mounted on my engine but I can't seem to find a replacement because it looks "end of life..."

Some have offered a manual valve but I do want an original cable operated valve.

thanks

 

001 - Copy (36).JPG

  • 4 months later...
Posted

The dual heater control valve is another that really is worth rebuilding as valuable as they are.

oddly I JUST saw this post...where would one find that packing?

Posted

oddly I JUST saw this post...where would one find that packing?

I missed this somehow too. I have 2 of these sitting here that need rebuilding!

Posted (edited)

Go to "Omni Packing and Seal" in Seattle and buy bulk packing material and make your own.

Or your own local company.

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Posted

you just machined a new one?  IS the valve stem a tapered hole?

  • 8 months later...
Posted

Well I finally got 1 step closer. Got one of these completely apart. That center shaft that turns was hard to get out. Days of soaking and messing with it.

Any is this the proper order? Cover that the shaft goes through, full gasket, metal gasket, then the fiber and metal bowtie shaped pieces that turn with the shaft, washer and nut on the shaft, then a perimeter gasket and a spring between that stuff and the other half?

Does the new packing mentioned replace that entire outside piece or do you somehow get that out and restuff it?

 

IMG_20151114_152123.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 9 months later...
Posted

I bought a kit from NAPA a few years ago to redo one of mine. Just the two seals, about $7.00 I think. But I could never get it to work right after replacing them. Despite my best efforts the one I took apart never worked right again. I must have done something wrong but I surely cannot tell what it was.

Posted

yes taking one of these apart for "repair" isn't really an option.  I'd guess you'd have leaks around the stem.  I took one down years ago....I really don't see a "repair" for these.

  • 6 years later...
Posted

Old thread I know. But I can add my experience. My unit leaked out the top. I tried making seals out of hose and it still leaked. Finally, I placed an O ring around the shaft at the top, and that solved it.

Screenshot_20220927-001634.jpg

Posted
On 9/11/2016 at 10:44 PM, plymouthcranbrook said:

I bought a kit from NAPA a few years ago to redo one of mine. Just the two seals, about $7.00 I think. But I could never get it to work right after replacing them. Despite my best efforts the one I took apart never worked right again. I must have done something wrong but I surely cannot tell what it was.

I tried the kit on an off-topic car; a huge number of vehicles use the same kit, though the pictures in this thread look like a different animal. I know that my experience was the same: I could get it apart, but couldn't get it back together without leaking. There are rebuilders out there; I think I sent mine in for exchange to Kanter's. I do think the one in my Chrysler is the type that uses the NAPA kit and not what is shown here.

  • Like 1
Posted

I bought a new valve for a 57 Chevy sedan. Withy only minor firewall adjustment it works fine. And 99.97% of people who look at it cannot tell. The only annoyance it that the controls work backwards on temp. If I ever got off my duff and routed the cable from the other side it would work correctly.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 2/22/2013 at 1:05 AM, B1B Keven said:

Folks, don't throw away your brass heater control valves!!!!

Replace the two internal rubber seals.

These work. :)

https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-348325-heater-control-valve-seal-kit.aspx

 

Kevin, great post!

 

I bought a NOS heater control valve a number of years ago and now that I've finally got the engine running, I'm having a slight weeping problem from the stem.  Based on your previous post I found the same kit available from Zip Corvette.  It was a little cheaper than from Paragon.  I guess 60 to 70 old seals, even if they are unused are still going to leak. 

 

Thanks for posting the info.  

 

20230404_182902x.jpg.4b4bb6fe6ca3d62e89446a85849e2098.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)
On 4/12/2023 at 12:03 PM, bkahler said:

I found the same kit available from Zip Corvette.

 

https://www.zip-corvette.com/56-57-heater-control-valve-seal-kit.html

 

If you need an NOS one, lol.

 

https://www.hiltopautoparts.com/product/nos-mopar-heater-control-valve-1946-52-plymouth-dodge-chrysler-desoto-6-cylinder-models/

 

http://www.dpmotorparts.com/inventory_4_b.cfm

Edited by Sniper

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use