Gas Sending Unit

[sandest46]

I had the gas tank in my 52 Dodge B3 truck stiripped and refinished, but in the process the gas sending unit was destroyed.  I have not been able to find another one.  Does anyone know of a supplier for gas sending units for the 52 Dodge truck? 

[Jeff Balazs]

Roberts has complete new units for about $85

 

Jeff

[55 Fargo]

Heard the Roberts re-pops were crap, any confirm or deny, I have 1 in my car, it seems okay.

For my truck, using OEM top sender plate with universal 75-10 ohm range sender, put together...

[52b3b Joe]

The ones that Roberts sell are good but the only difference is that the arm with the float is shorter than the stock ones. You can either lengthen it back to match the stock length (like I did) or you can install as is. If you install as is, when the gauge reads empty you will have a fair amount still in the tank. I can't speak if they are bad or not, I have had my truck on the road yet to know how long it will last. 

Edited January 27, 2013 by 52b3b218

[55 Fargo]

This what I am doing for my truck supposedy a better quality sender, and less than 1/2 the price..

 

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/fuelsender.html

[B1B Keven]

My sending unit from Roberts is over a year old. No problems.

[ggdad1951]

Have a roberts no problems except when overfull, it tends to bounce around

Edited January 27, 2013 by ggdad1951

[JBNeal]

I've purchased several units from Roberts for the '48 & '49, and they have pros & cons.  The variable resistor is built similar to the originals, and are prone to the same failure as the originals as corrosion from condensation inside the tank damages the very small gauge wire enough to break circuit continuity.  The metal flange is zinc plated, making it a good candidate for updating with a newer variable resistor/float assembly from JC Whitney (if they can ever keep them Datcon units in stock).  Before I re-fired the '49 from its 4 yr hiatus, I pulled the 7yr-old sender to find that it didn't work from a li'l less than half to empty.  Also, I noticed the plastic float had started to deteriorate & crumble, so it'll have to be pulled again sooner than later...

Edited January 27, 2013 by JBNeal

[Desotodav]

I suppose that it's a good thing having the gauge read empty early - sort of like having a reserve tank hey!

 

Desotodav

[sandest46]

This what I am doing for my truck supposedy a better quality sender, and less than 1/2 the price..

 

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/fuelsender.html

Could not locate either of those part numbers at Whitney.  Did locate a universal one, but uncertain if it will fit.  See

http://www.jcwhitney.com/dorman-oe-replacement-fuel-sending-unit/p2011675.jcwx?filterid=d51471y1952g2u0j1

[55 Fargo]

This is what you want, the Chrysler/Ford 78-10 ohm universal sender, make to fit, and then add top plate from OEM sender for mounting...

 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/category_id=62/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd276.htm

[wallytoo]

this is what i did instead. used a jeep wagoneer unit, with easy modifications, to create a sender that works with the factory dash gauge. in my opinion, it was a slightly easier "conversion" than using any of the original unit.

http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/30863-sending-unit-measurement/?view=findpost&p=308072

[55 Fargo]

I like your sender suggestion, all except fabbing float arm rod lengths. Not that it is a bad idea or anything, but it takes  bit of skill and time.

With the stock Jeep unit, how far off the bottom of the tank, was it, before you modified the float arm?

I have 3 choices, buy a Roberts re-pop to the tune of 100 buck$, buy a universal, and switch top plates, or do as you did. Have not decided which way to go yet, but your idea is a good option......

[55 Fargo]

I

Edited February 1, 2013 by C38Spitfire6

[HanksB3B]

This is what you want, the Chrysler/Ford 78-10 ohm universal sender, make to fit, and then add top plate from OEM sender for mounting...

 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/category_id=62/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd276.htm

 

 

Mine was for a 6-Volt system

 

Hope this helps,

 

Hank 

[55 Fargo]

 

Mine was for a 6-Volt system

 

Hope this helps,

 

Hank 

Thanx Hank, did not think a sender cared about voltage, am I wrong, though it was gauge that needed a voltage dropper

[55 Fargo]

Oh BTW, who is the vendor, if JC Whitney, they have gone up in price a lot as of this year.. today it is $46, plus shipping

Edited February 1, 2013 by C38Spitfire6

[TodFitch]

Thanx Hank, did not think a sender cared about voltage, am I wrong, though it was gauge that needed a voltage dropper

 

Sender is just a variable resistor hooked onto a float arm and doesn't care what the voltage is.

 

As you think, it is the dash gauge that might need a voltage dropping circuit.

[HanksB3B]

Sender is just a variable resistor hooked onto a float arm and doesn't care what the voltage is.

 

As you think, it is the dash gauge that might need a voltage dropping circuit.

 

Makes sense...

 

Hank 

[sandest46]

This is what you want, the Chrysler/Ford 78-10 ohm universal sender, make to fit, and then add top plate from OEM sender for mounting...

 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/category_id=62/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd276.htm

The top plate was destroyed when the tank was stripped, so I don't have the top plate from OEM sender.  Any suggestions as to where I might find one?

[55 Fargo]

The top plate was destroyed when the tank was stripped, so I don't have the top plate from OEM sender.  Any suggestions as to where I might find one?

Nope, I don't, maybe someone on here has an extra they could send you.

You may have to either buy a repop, ready to install unit from Roberts or make 1 up, as Wallytoo has done.

Have you got the hold down rig at least???

[wallytoo]

I like your sender suggestion, all except fabbing float arm rod lengths. Not that it is a bad idea or anything, but it takes bit of skill and time.

With the stock Jeep unit, how far off the bottom of the tank, was it, before you modified the float arm?

I have 3 choices, buy a Roberts re-pop to the tune of 100 buck$, buy a universal, and switch top plates, or do as you did. Have not decided which way to go yet, but your idea is a good option......

altering the wagoneer sender isn't difficult. heck, i did it, and i'm not a great fabricator or solderer. i estimated that it was perhaps easier than having to reuse portions of the original sender for the modification above. i don't know how far off the bottom of the tank the stock jeep sender was, since the tank was installed in the truck when i replaced it, and it had a full tank of gas at the time. however, the jeep sender arm is very short, while the dodge arm is at least 5 inches longer than the jeep arm. i used the original sender arm as a model to determine how long to lengthen the jeep arm, in order to have the dash gauge read close to correct. the secret to soldering is to really clean the two mating surfaces (i used emery cloth), and apply a hot iron to the opposite side from where the solder is applied. eventually, it flows between the two pieces, and forms a decent bond. the other modifications are easy enough, just a question of making it fit by taking a little bit off at a time and test-fitting without taking too much material off with the dremel.

The top plate was destroyed when the tank was stripped, so I don't have the top plate from OEM sender. Any suggestions as to where I might find one?

sounds like a good candidate for trying the wagoneer sending unit. you don't need any of the original sending unit, just the lock ring/gasket.

i wish my digital camera had been working when i did the install, to show the soldered joints and the modified arm.

wally

[55 Fargo]

hey Wally willing to try either your approach or the other, I have the top ring,gasket and plate, all in good shape, will get braver closer to warm spring weather. I am going to buy a sender soon, to bench test gauge, i am running 12 volts on a 55/56 Fargo, but figure the gauge itself may need a voltage dropper...

[1950 Special Deluxe]

The top plate was destroyed when the tank was stripped, so I don't have the top plate from OEM sender.  Any suggestions as to where I might find one?

I am pretty sure I have an old sender, lock ring, gasket, etc. in my garage.

I will confirm tomorrow, if I do it is yours, if you want/need it.

It is my turn to pay it forward.

Here is what I have.

The top plate has been modified, I added a separate ground when I was working on it.

Let me know if you are interested.

Edited February 2, 2013 by 1950 Special Deluxe

[wallytoo]

hey Wally willing to try either your approach or the other, I have the top ring,gasket and plate, all in good shape, will get braver closer to warm spring weather. I am going to buy a sender soon, to bench test gauge, i am running 12 volts on a 55/56 Fargo, but figure the gauge itself may need a voltage dropper...

i'm running 12-volts, too. i used a ruuntz-type resistor on the power feed to the dash gauge unit. works fine. i did test everything prior to installing, to make sure it worked. that way, if something wasn't functioning after install, i'd know where to begin (i knew the dash gauge worked, for instance, only because i tested it first). i tested the full range of motion of the arm/sender, and observed how that corresponded to the gauge unit. etc, etc.