1946 WD-15 Daily Driver Rebuild-Restoration

[TennesseeVol51]

Here's another question,I know the previous owner painted this truck orange.

Was this a factory color that Dodge offered during these years? I never seen another truck painted this color during all my internet searches.

[Young Ed]

I don't think it was a common choice but it was available for at least some of the 39-47 run.

[TennesseeVol51]

Here is another question bear with me please.If what I am writing below is all wrong please tell me you will not hurt my feelings.All I want to do is just get the engine running and make sure there is no major engine problems,before I start getting this truck to the way I want it.

Here is what I want to do right now to the truck.

1--Drain the oil

2--Pour 4 quarts of kerosene in then let it set without turning over engine then drain

3--Remove oil pan and clean and look at everything.

4--Take off valve covers and look for sludge etc.

5--Install new oil filter--and new oil

6--Install new plugs--plug wires--points----rotor--condenser--and (coil--do i need to test the coil? Can someone tell me how to test the coil?)

7--pour a small amount of gas in the carb and start?

Here is what I have done so far--

I turned the switch on and I have fire to the points.Then I put a new plug in the #1 plug cap you can see it in the pics and spun engine over to see if there was any spark on the plug.I cannot get any spark from the points to the plug.

Look at the picture this is where the rotor needs to be pointing to #1 cylinder before removing the distributor. Am I right?

I have got some Autolite 306 plugs at my local parts store.Now can ya'll tell me in your opinions where is the best/easiest place is to get plug wires,points,rotor and condenser? Also how do I test the coil? I know I am missing a lot of stuff just tell me which direction to go.

Sorry for the delays in getting the engine/starting sorted out I have worked 18 out of the last 19 days and 12 hour shifts on 12 of those days.And I don't work off till Christmas eve morning then I have to work 12 hours shifts starting Wednesday 26th till next New Years Eve morning.

[Merle Coggins]

First off, why waste a gallon of kerosene if you're going to drop the pan anyway? Just clean it out once you have it down.

For tune up parts, check with your favorite parts store. I get mine at Napa. You'll need to cross reference the distributor number though since it may be different from the original for your truck model.

Merle

[Scruffy49]

NAPA, National or Parts Plus can all get the tune up parts. Plug wires from Tractor Supply Company (period, 1/2 the price from elsewhere). Your engine has the 1951-60 internal bypass head/water pump. Does your starter work off the key switch (1956-60)? Or is it the old style floor pedal with a modified 6v starter?

Give the parts guy the model number off your distributor. The parts all look the same, but there are at least 2 heights of caps and rotors, and you can't mix them...

If your engine spins over, and the distributor guts rotate, do not pull the dizzy. Retiming an L6 is at best a pain in the butt. If you want to pull it to paint the engine, don't. Just wrap it with a bread bag and rubber band, tape around the base. Paint the dizzy before you paint the block, no overspray on the engine that way.

I know I'll catch some flak over this, but if you want a daily driver, sell the generator and install a Chevy one wire alternator (EZ-wire and related harnesses are set up for it). 1967-86 Ford truck headlight switch (slips right in). Cranked via ignition switch? Ford truck/tractor ignition solenoid (the 61-71 Dodge version is a piece of East Indian made junk, I went through 9 before I got one that lasted over 2 months). I'm sure I'll think up some more stuff later...

[JBNeal]

have ya heard of the gener-nator?

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Tennesee;

Very cool truck!

I know this is perhaps a silly question ....but did you have your ignition switch set to the on or run position when you tested for spark?

Tune up parts including the coil are pretty easy to find....Napa for sure.

It is much easier to work on the distributor out of the truck.

Just make sure you note the position of the rotor and then go ahead and remove it.

As long as you don't turn the motor over with it out.....it goes back in in the exactly the same orientation. It can only go back in in the correct position or 180 degrees out. With it out you can give it a good cleaning and inspection. Put new points and condensor in, carefully check the connections and set the points. This is much easier this way than with it in the truck.

One area that may require attention that you have not mentioned is the cooling system. If it has been setting with water in the block for an extended period of time.....then there could be an issue with the water distribution tube inside the block. It is right behind the water pump. If it is a problem do a search on this site as there is plenty of info here already.

Good luck with your project.

Jeff

[TennesseeVol51]

Here is the removed distributor--Greg it is stramped "IGS"

I going to remove the vaccum advance then clean everything is there anything I need to watch for?

Also Look at the 2nd picture I know this is probably something very simple but what is the little flip cap for? There is also one on the Generator and the starter.

Edited December 23, 2012 by TennesseeVol51

[Scruffy49]

Oil inlets so the shaft bushings get lubricated. 3 in 1 or similar work great.

[TennesseeVol51]

Here is 2 more pics--

Distributor taken apart and cleaned, points adjusted.

The only problem I can see is I need a new wire the one under the vaccum advance arm.It is the original felt wire and pretty much the felt is gone.Does anyone have one to spare or where to order one.

Vaccum advance taken apart cleaned and working perfect.

[TennesseeVol51]

Here is some more pictures.I am getting closer to starting the engine.I have the "W" Series Factory Service Manual and some of the questions below are in the manual but I still would like some halp/advice and pictures if possible.

I taped all the stock wires on the harness that were exposed.I will work on the wire harness later on.

I want to replace the water pump and distribution tube but I will need some special tools for the job? Could someone post some picture of the tools required for the job?

It is ok to start the engine and let it run for a little while with out the radiator hooked up isn't it? As long as you don't get above 160 degrees the theromastat does not open up does it?

I drained the oil.I need to put a new filter in but I am not exactly sure how to remove the filter.Do you just screw the bolt out of the top of the cannister and pop off the lid?

The distributor is ready.I will get some plugs and wires later this week.I need to take the sediment bowl off the fuel pump but I am not sure how to remove it.Or should I just take the fuel pump off and clean everything at once?

[Scruffy49]

For your little wire in the dizzy just replace it with a modern style. You can make it, should run about 8 cents for the materials. With the cap on, who's gonna know (or care)? Cut the plastic off a couple crimp fittings and use them, the plastic takes up too much room.

Oil filter comes apart as you described. There are a couple different sizes of insert, take the number off yours with you when you go to get the new insert. Or better yet, take the entire canister, just clean it out/off with Brakleen first and leave the lines hooked to the engine.

Sediment bulb? Loosen the wheel in the center of the wire bail, swing bail to the side, bowl will pull off (if it doesn't fall off and break). Tractor Supply has bowls, gaskets and top screens, and a decent selection of filters to go in there. Take your parts in with you to match them up.

Put the hoses back on the engine, fill the cooling system with water and radiator flush. If the radiator isn't in the truck, leave the fan off and hook big hose to big hose over a pipe connector (exhaust tubing is cheap and works fine for this). Fill the engine via the heater hose, and then hook the heater hoses together like the radiator hoses. Or let the flush mixture go through the heater core. If the radiator is in place, hook everything up like normal, bring the truck up to full operating temp and follow the flush bottle's label.

Get the truck off the ground, on jackstands under the frame, wheels and tires off. My 49 is bad about trying to put itself in gear (or was the last couple times it ran in 94).

[TennesseeVol51]

Sediment bulb? Loosen the wheel in the center of the wire bail, swing bail to the side, bowl will pull off (if it doesn't fall off and break). Tractor Supply has bowls, gaskets and top screens, and a decent selection of filters to go in there. Take your parts in with you to match them up.

Get the truck off the ground, on jackstands under the frame, wheels and tires off. My 49 is bad about trying to put itself in gear (or was the last couple times it ran in 94).

Thats what I was thinking but the wheel on the bottom is pretty rusty and I have sprayed it with Areo-Kroil and still not unscrewing.

Thanks for the tip on the jackstands,I would not have thought of that.

You the man Scruff!!

[Scruffy49]

Replacement bail is less than $10. Take a pair of channel locks to the wheel. It will turn or it will break, not the end of the world. I've got a few John Deere 1020 UL and Willys CJ2A bails and bulbs around here that are a perfect match to the ones on my 48 218 and 56 or 57 230 engines. You can get the same diameter bulb in shorter or longer lengths as well, with bails to match. Chevs of the 40s carries some really nice ones...

I'm probably going to run a generic 12v inline fuel pump on my truck. Cheaper, easier, cleaner. If I swap the stock tank for the spare Ranger poly tank I'll just run the Ranger fuel pump and inline filter, I know they work fine, I drive a Ranger every day.

[Jerry Roberts]

See how fine the braided wires are in your existing distributor wire , that wire has to flex a lot as it moves each time you use the throttle . If you can find replacement wire with many strands , that would be best .

[TennesseeVol51]

Guy's here is a link to my you tube video of the engine running.

It is running smooth as silk.I could not get the fuel pump to suck any gas.So I just filled the float bowl up with gas.

Thanks so much to everyone Scruff,Jeff,Young Ed,Hank,GGdad1951 and Keven and many more of you guys for your help to this point I could not have done it.When I started taking the front end off I did not have a clue what I was doing.

It has new plugs--wires--points--condenser--oil change--oil filter.

The oil cannister started leaking soon as I got it running it is leaking along the top back edge. I thought the gasket was perfect.I can tell you one thing the oil cannister is a huge joke!! It is like working on a Dellorto carb on the 1980's KTM's,the only good thing about it is the aerodynamics when it is being tossed into the trash can!! Could some of you point me to some links on replacing this oil filter cannister setup with something more modern I mean easier:confused:

[TennesseeVol51]

Here is another question can I rebuild the stock shocks like it says in the service manual?

We rebuild our shocks on our dirtbikes,does anyone make a rebuild kit for the stock shocks?

Or would it be better/cheaper to just buy new shocks? Just wondering.

[MBF]

If you're not concerned about an original appearance under the hood, Gravely Tractors made a cast adapter for the Gravely engined L models that allowed replacement of their sealed oil filter with a spin on filter used in the Ford V-8's. It was tapped for the inlet and return lines, and had two ears on it to allow it to be mounted on the engine block or remotely. The biggest advantage was the convenience of using a spin on filter. The filtration system on the flathead 6's is a bypass system not a full flow system so there probably isn't much additional filtration. Mike

[pflaming]

Since most roads today are paved and our trucks are not used much for field work, I wonder if one needs the filter. I may not put one on my 53 Convertible.

[ggdad1951]

NICE! Congrats!

I'd just buy new shocks...way easier!

[Scruffy49]

Just buy new shocks.

Spin on oil filter? That's easy, any remote mount or add on kit that takes a P8HA or equivalent will work fine, including the ones made for Harley Davidson based custom bikes (tend to be a lot cheaper than from the offroad or performance shops).

There are a lot of people who buy the old canister filter housings. Cafe racer builders, chopper builders, restoration guys... filled with cement and the fittings knocked off they make decent cannon sabots...

[pflaming]

"Sabot" I learned a new word today.

[Don Coatney]

Could some of you point me to some links on replacing this oil filter cannister setup with something more modern I mean easier:confused:

Pictured is an OBERG cleanable oil filter system.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Bobby;

Happy New Year.

You can get a set of new gas charged shocks at Napa for under$100 that will be a heck of a lot better than any rebuild you could do on a set of originals.

I am an old dirt biker too.......but these were never as nice as a set of old Koni's

The canister filter will work but the element needs to be the correct one. Do a search here there is a lot of info available. Some guy's run without.....but I would not. You may have to play around a bit with it but I am sure you can get it to work.

At some point you are probably going to want to drop the oil pan and pull the valve inspection covers. More than likely there is a fair amount of sludge built up. To help prevent this happening later on you can retrofit a positive crankcase ventilation system. There is a lot on this site about this and VPW has a kit than can be made to work. Install is much easier while you have the front clip off.

Jeff

[Jobrated_man]

Question #1--Ed or anyone that has a "W" series can you get me some good clear photos of your engine compartment especially the wireing harness and wires going down to the light harness on the frame.

Question #2 --Can some one get me a good clear picture of your Ball and Ball Carb and the linkage connections

Question #3--can someone direct me to a link that has some detailed photos of removing the Distributor

I will post some pictures of my carb and Distributor below each question when I get home from work tonight.

Thanks

We have all those detail photos on the yahoo forum for the 39-47 dodge trucks. Used a truck that had won many awards as a model in many of the photos, and can take more specific details if anyone asks. BTW, the photo of your red and black truck in the snow is a great one. Could we use it on the site?

dave

www.groups.yahoo.com/group/39-47dodge