218 temperature and fuel problems

[lelshaddai]

I am trying to restore this 53 but I have limited knowledge. The car sat in the desert for over 25 years. It did start right up. Thank you for those of you that are helping me with the engine noise. I am still working on it. I have a couple of other questions. I have a few other problems. The temp gauge starts(reads) at the middle. There are no numbers on it. The starting temp right now is about 100 degrees. (that is the temp in my Arizona garage) Is the middle about 100 degrees. When it runs it goes almost to H and then the thermostat opens and it drops back to the edge of the line. I temped it out at about 195 running at idle for 5 minutes. Is this too hot? I have replaced the thermostat, water pump, hoses and radiator core. It has been flushed. Antifreeze mix has not been set yet. It is about 20% antifreeze and 80% filtered water. Is this too hot and is the gauge reading correctly? Water is moving.

Second question:

I rebuilt the fuel pump, carb and flushed the lines. The fuel pump has 7 on the vacuum coming in and 5 1/2 lbs going to the carb. When I use a 2 gallon tank in the engine compartment it drives fine, even under load. When I reconnect it to the tank it will eventually die under load and will not restart. There is gas in the tank. It does run from the tank but starves under load.

Any thoughts would be great. I have tried to do everything I can with the manuals now I need the experts.

[54Illinois]

Nice looking ride! As far as the temp goes...it is possible the distribution tube is clogged toward the back, by the temp gauge.

Did the fuel tank have old gas in it?

[lelshaddai]

It had old gas but I cleaned the tank and lines out. I blew the lines out also. The car runs on the tank at idle. It dies under load. I may run a new rubber temp line from the tank to the pump and see if that works.

[lelshaddai]

I have a 160 thermostat in it. Can you unplug the distribution tube?

[TodFitch]

In that era, not sure about '53 though, there is a filter made of sintered material inside the gas tank. That might be clogged up. I've heard of people putting some compressed air on the fuel line to the tank and popping them off to fix fuel delivery problems.

Good call on the possibility of the water distribution tube by previous posters as well as the question about what thermostat is in there. Mopar was using pressurized cooling systems by then and if you have the wrong cap it might also make a difference. I think they were 4 pounds back then. Might have been 7 though. Crud tends to settle in the bottom of the water jacket. You might want to pull the freeze/core/welch plugs on the side of the engine and see if you can clean out any build up.

[lelshaddai]

I have made a lot of progress. She is running and interior is fixed up. Got the surfboards on top. Just need to iron out the last problems.

[lelshaddai]

I have a 7 lb cap on radiator.

[oldodge41]

Try running w/o the gas cap and see if it works better. It is a cheap test.

[lelshaddai]

I started and ran her without the belt and I still have the noise. I have another video but it does not pick it up well. It sounds like riding on a bumpy road and you have lower pitched squeaks.

http://s1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/lelshaddai/?action=view&current=20120729_165703.mp4

[Niel Hoback]

Where are you? Perhaps a second set of ears could pick up something.

[lelshaddai]

I am in Mesa Arizona. I just do not know how serious this is.

[55 Fargo]

Have a look at this thread. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=8997&highlight=water+distribution+tube

Pull your water tube, flush block out really good with side freeze plugs out. Most likely you will have to road some of the gunk out of the block, flush and reflush, undo the draincock on block too, make sure coolant can really circulate through this engine.

Good rad, clean water jackets, new hoses, confirmed water pump in good working order.

T/stat can be 160, 4-7 lb rad cap. Set engine to spec, make sure heat riser is working, allowing hot exhaust to exit more freely, better for fuel and carb too.

Once all is cleaned out, ESPECIALLY THE WATER DISTRIBUTION TUBE, many are plugged in the last 6 inches, not allowing water to flow through block, up into the head, and to flow freely. Then you will stand a fighting chance, run your beach bomb( I love your car man), take for a good ride with water, get things loosened up, drain and do it again, once water can come out clean add your antifreeze mix.

I figure in Arizona, you should run at about 170-190, depending on speed, hills traffic etc.

You engine ain't gonna run at 160, when it 110 outside, and your booted down a freeway to keep up with traffic.

Hey good luck....

[Don Coatney]

I have made a lot of progress. She is running and interior is fixed up. Got the surfboards on top. Just need to iron out the last problems.

Great looking car! Couple of thoughts.

First off where do you surf in Zona:D

Second thought.

Dont start a new thread for the same issues. Post your questions on the same thread.

[TodFitch]

Great looking car! Couple of thoughts.

First off where do you surf in Zona:D

Second thought.

Dont start a new thread for the same issues. Post your questions on the same thread.

This opened up sometime around 1970:

http://phoenix.about.com/od/famtheme/ss/bigsurf.htm

Visited it in, I think, 1971. Was weird having chlorinated fresh water rather than salty sea water.

[lelshaddai]

Don, Sorry about the different posts. Still new to this. Just trying to get answers. We actually have water parks here for surfing.

[Young Ed]

Take a picture of your temp gauge when the car hasn't been run. It sounds like maybe its reading high even. When it hasnt been running it should be all or almost all the way to the left even in a 100° garage.

[lelshaddai]

Here is a pic of the temp gauge. The engine is 89 degrees at this time. There are no numbers on this gauge. What is the temp supposed to be at the far right of the line to the right before it reaches H?

[Young Ed]

At ambient temp that needle should be by the C. You are reading probably 40° hot. The needle position in the photo is about where they run for normal operating temp. H is the boiling over or about to boil over point so I'd estimate the end of the line at about 200.

[lelshaddai]

What is the best way to fix it to get an accurate measurement?

[Young Ed]

You would have to completely remove the unit from the car and put the sender in water with another thermometer and see what range its off. Then there is a procedure to adjust it.

[Jerry Roberts]

You can buy an inexpensive after market gauge at some part stores and mount it under your dash board . You MIGHT be able to fix your existing gauge by removing it from the car ( they are fragile and the bulb of ether gets stuck in the head ) by gently adjusting the very small connector that attaches to the needle .

[lelshaddai]

I have another question. Is it normal for these fuel gauges to flop around on the indicator? Mine will not read properly. It stays on empty and will flip to full and back down. I have a couple of sending units I have tried but cannot get an accurate reading.

[greg g]

try grounding your fuel sending unit to a know good ground. Make sure nothing under the dash is flopping against the terminals on the back of the gauge. I had a loose defroster duct that would come in contact with the gauge and cause a false ground which sent the gauge into spasms.

You can get a small cooking thermometer and put it in the coolant at the radiator. This will give you a decent base to eyball calibrate your gauge. Keep inmind tha the sensor is located where coolant is the hottest, and that the radiator reading will be 5 to 10 degrees less, but you should be able to establish a Wild A$$ Guess as to what your gauge is relfecting when its centered.

195 with a pressurized system in the desert seems to be an OK number. Mine runs at 170 just about all the time, but last week when it got to be 96 here it was running 185/90.

Water cools better than coolant, but coolant has a higher boiling point. I run 70 water 30 Coolant.

If you decide to remove your heat gauge sensor bulb from the head, do so very carefully. If you twist the capillary tube you will loose the ether that makes it work ad that will render the gauge inoperative.

I would recommend you buy a cheap thermometer and establish what is going on before you decide you need to remove the sensor from the head, then use lots of penetrating oil and extra patience if you decide to pull it.

As to your noise, have you lubricated the generator, ther should be a oil cup at the front and a small covered acces port at the rear, and have you lubricated the distributor?

Also when running, check to see if there is any run out visible at the crankshaft pully. I believe someone mentioned a deteriorating vibration dampener, some time you ca see it wiggling when the engine is running.

[suntennis]

On the temperature issue, in the center in the black area here in 100 degree weather is normal. My cooling system is all new and that is where I run during the Summer. As for checking the temperature, for a few dollars, you shold be able to get a cooking thermometer to put in the radiator. I live in Scottsdale, if I could aid, send me email and maybe I could be of better help. Hard to hear the engine noise you talk about.

[Jerry Roberts]

Assuming you have a mechanical temperature gauge with the ether bulb in the fitting in the head . If you decide to remove the ether bulb , there is a welsh plug in the head just above the bulb if the thing is stuck . That particular welsh plug is not as common as the others though . It is smaller , 3/4 or 1 " .